HELP!!

[raging_fifer]

please help !! MY CARS ENGINE MANAGMENT LIGHT KEEPS COMMING ON AROUNG 5,000 RPM MOSTLT IN 3rd IT SEEMS TO BE OVER BOOSTING TO AND HITTING CUT OFF . I DONE THE HI/LO MOD IS HIS BAD FOR THE CAR OR IS IT OK THANKS!!

[raging_fifer]

my car is going into garage the mora to check it out and set it up what should the boost be set at ?? seems to be hitting cut off at 9psi

thanks!

[Guest Enzo]

im in the same boat dude, after doin the hi low boost mod its as if the car is cutting out in high boost, under full load,

so ive had to revert back to low boost, and still it some times misses,

its asif there is something wrong with the spark but ive checked the leads and plugs ect,

i think im hittin fual cut aswell but i cant be sure mate,

its doin my head in,

when it hits fual cut its asif the engine dies for a split second? right?

i think low booost is 5psi and hi is 9-10 psi,

where are you taking your car mate?

could you also let me know how you get on?

thanx

[raging_fifer]

im taking it to R.J.M and son in glenothies they are good they looked after ma rs for 5 yr with no prob they know there stuff but weather or not they know about glanzas remains to be seen will let you know its going in at 1 hope to fuck they can re map it or something

[*Toymota*]

ive been told you should only hit fuel cut around 12-13psi??

[SiCaln]

that was my understanding too

[BlackTarw]

Just a wild guess but would the ECU still be thinking it should be delivering low boost amount of fuel even after the mod?

[raging_fifer]

just got her ste up they fiddled with the actuater its keeping boost steady. I've got a blitz turbo time and boost guage its reading 0.75 khpa instead of 9khpa is this psi?????

she is running fine but not as fast anymore atleast she wont blow up .

[DAN_GTT]

If your gauge is reading 0.75 that will be bar which = 10.8 psi. Fuel cut is at about 13 psi which is about 0.8 bar.

If you have bypassed the hi/low switch then the turbo is running as much boost as it can in every gear. Not sure if you aware but the boost is restricted in first and second gear but it will eliminate that if you bypass the boost solenoid and i think raises the boost a bit more in all the other gears aswell

[raging_fifer]

cheers dan sound like you know your stuff !

So what does khpa stand for and how you work it out into psi??

[DAN_GTT]

Couldnt tell you what that means, it could be related to something else, but all i do know is that boost gauges will only be in psi or bar. You can find a psi converter on the internet just do a search on google ;)

[lobotomy]

I was thinking it might be kilopascals - but that doesn't work out unless there's a multiplier on the gauge.

by the way you'll find GReddy gauges read mmHg in vacuum

[ady]

i think fuel cut is 13.5psi. when i fitted my hks actuator i kept turning the boost up, taking it for a cane till i hit fuel cut, then just turned it back down a bit. that way i know im running as much boost as i can without an FCD.

probably wont get an FCD it a bit of an expensive mod with the fuel remapping and what not. i sometimes get a bit of hesitation from the engine if i rag it flat out in 3rd gear, feels like a missfire but i think its fuel cut trying to make its mind up if im over boosting or not.

but proper fuel cut feels like hitting a brick wall!

by the way kPA does stand for kilopascals, its called bar cause its barometric pressure, which is what barometers measure

[ecksjay]

if you're boosting 16psi rubix cube, then you have some device on board that has disabled the fuel cut.

maybe you have aftermarket ecu, or a home made form of a fcd, but 16psi is a good 3psi higher than fuel cut, meaning either your gauge is reading wrong or it has just been disabled/bypassed

i havent been able to really test mine for a while as my clutch is slipping, and when doing so the revs/boost just shoot up and obviously wont give me a good reading, and when under full boost as it is slipping even though it appears to be holding steady, it'll obviously be giving a false reading and not boosting/accelerating to its full extend, so i'll wait until thats sorted before i get some definate readings.

will try and source myself a sard/jam ecu as i cannot be bothered to go the fcd/rrfpr/safc route, too complicated, will just get the ecu then get a 'lectronic boost controller and take it up a few notches, then see how it goes from there

[lobotomy]

Wullies running e-manage

[dac69er]

i get a similar problem in 5th gear under full acceleration at about 120mph.

my engine management light stays on though. but sometimes i dont even hit any sort of cut the light just comes on.

have you got any ecu codes? i get 31

[lobotomy]

I read something about this on GTTurbo might apply to you dac69er. They said a cheap way to remove the 112mph speed limit was to cut the speed signal wire. Dunno if this is any help to you mate but might be worth a try.

[dac69er]

yeah. could be i guess. but then you would get a code for having no speed sensor input wouldnt you?

if its as easy as that, why bother with such things as an sld?

[ecksjay]

its a much better idea to use the gearbox speedo converter, allows the mileage to tick up in miles on the odometer too then.

[dac69er]

but then its best to have a certificate to prove the km covered before the conversion. makes it harder when working out overall mileage.

unless you adjust the clocks so it reads what it should in miles, than add the speedo converter.

i prefer mine to just stay clocking up the kms

[Ichiban]

my car also cuts under hard acceleration, only on high boost and in 3rd+4th

my EP82 is standard apart from a full decat exhaust (2.3/4" all the way) and a HKS filter oh, and HKS plugs

i have my cable converter and i am waiting for my dials to arrive, how and where do i get the certificate to say it covered its said km's? i will be fitting the parts myself as i am a mechanic but does the car have to be re-sva'd?