Nilz90 Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 Anyone have one for sale or know the best place to get it from? Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 We don't have a crank sensor bud. We do however have a knock sensor. Link to post Share on other sites
Nilz90 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 On 1/3/2019 at 9:35 PM, akyakapotter said: We don't have a crank sensor bud. We do however have a knock sensor. Expand Thanks bud..car only starts on cold and cuts out so a few people said it may be the crank sensor. Do you know if the knock sensor has anything to do with ignition related issues? Link to post Share on other sites
H_D Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 (edited) The car will start and run without a knock sensor but the EML will come on (code 52 iirc) i would look at the ignition and fuel related components such as spark plugs, ignition leads distributor, also make sure the car is getting enough fuel a clogged up or old fuel filter can also cause starting issues, test the fuel pump and finally check the timing. Edited January 4, 2019 by H_D Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 As said the car technically doesn't have a dedicated crank angle sensor, it uses the distributor to calculate this input to the ECU. It is worth checking your distributor etc, however this wouldn't be affected by temperature. If the ECU cant see the engine position due to a dizzy fault it would do this regardless of engine temperature. How quickly does it cut out? Link to post Share on other sites
Nilz90 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 On 1/4/2019 at 9:21 AM, RobSR said: As said the car technically doesn't have a dedicated crank angle sensor, it uses the distributor to calculate this input to the ECU. It is worth checking your distributor etc, however this wouldn't be affected by temperature. If the ECU cant see the engine position due to a dizzy fault it would do this regardless of engine temperature. How quickly does it cut out? Expand It would cut out roughly after 10 15 mins of it being on. If I take it for a drive it would cut out after 5 mins and make a big bang from the exhaust. Then wouldnt start till the next day. Would you say the next best thing will be to replace the leads and distributor. Fuel pump sounds ok, sparks are fine, battery is fine. Fuel filter hasn’t been changed in a while. Link to post Share on other sites
H_D Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 check the distributor and timing, also change the fuel filter if it hasn't been done in a while Link to post Share on other sites
Nilz90 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 On 1/4/2019 at 11:07 AM, H_D said: check the distributor and timing, also change the fuel filter if it hasn't been done in a while Expand Ok Thanks I’ll check distributor and change fuel filter..timings should be fine as it was out when i got it mapped and tuning developments corrected it a few months ago Link to post Share on other sites
Nilz90 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 I’ve think I’ve found the issue now the rear bolt of the distributor was causing it to be loose. Do you guys now where the best place to get the red seals in the picture below would be? Or can i use sealant? Link to post Share on other sites
H_D Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 (edited) that seal is not correct, it should be a black 'O' ring, Toyota sell them for abt £3. its a weird size so you wont find them in a regular set of 'O' rings - part number is 90099-14088, I see you have lots of sealant around the area where the dizzy goes in, remove the rocker cover and get rid of all of that sealant before re-installing Edited January 4, 2019 by H_D Link to post Share on other sites
Nilz90 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 On 1/4/2019 at 3:08 PM, H_D said: that seal is not correct, it should be a black 'O' ring, Toyota sell them for abt £3. its a weird size so you wont find them in a regular set of 'O' rings - part number is 90099-14088, I see you have lots of sealant around the area where the dizzy goes in, remove the rocker cover and get rid of all of that sealant before re-installing Expand Thanks buddy I just checked already have that seal under the red sealant. I’ll clean it all up and put it back in. Fingers crossed its all fine after that. Link to post Share on other sites
H_D Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 (edited) if they had to use sealer to get it on then its perished or the wrong size and will leak oil, get it replaced remove the excess sealer for the sake of £3. Edited January 4, 2019 by H_D Link to post Share on other sites
Nilz90 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 I cleaned it up bolted it back on let it warm up for 5 10 mins then it started making a humpfing sound after another couple of minutes i pressed the accelerator and it went bang again and turned off and now doesn’t start. What could that mean? Link to post Share on other sites
H_D Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 Possibly timing is out Link to post Share on other sites
Nilz90 Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 Thanks guys for your help ended up sorting the timing and now it’s not cutting out. Quick question what rpm should the starlet gt idle at? I can’t remember what it was before but now it is 1.1k is that ok? Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 If it’s ‘banging’ I.e back firing it’s and ignition problem. Again, change the dizzy cap, rotor arm, leads, plugs, and check the coil and ignitor on the bulk head too. Link to post Share on other sites
Nilz90 Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 On 1/5/2019 at 7:05 PM, RobSR said: If it’s ‘banging’ I.e back firing it’s and ignition problem. Again, change the dizzy cap, rotor arm, leads, plugs, and check the coil and ignitor on the bulk head too. Expand Thanks buddy got it sorted sounds ok now..no more back firing adjusted the igniton timing just not sure what rpm it use to idle at. Right now its 1.2k rpm on idle. Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted January 6, 2019 Share Posted January 6, 2019 What have you got the timing set to now? Link to post Share on other sites
Nilz90 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 On 1/6/2019 at 10:48 AM, RobSR said: What have you got the timing set to now? Expand Not too sure adjusted the distributor by eye till it sounded right and stopped backfiring and cutting out. Sounded ok. Link to post Share on other sites
H_D Posted January 6, 2019 Share Posted January 6, 2019 On 1/6/2019 at 2:05 PM, Nilz90 said: Not too sure adjusted the distributor by eye till it sounded right and stopped backfiring and cutting out. Sounded ok. Expand Not good mate. Time it properly with a gun. Link to post Share on other sites
Nilz90 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 On 1/6/2019 at 2:20 PM, H_D said: Not good mate. Time it properly with a gun. Expand Ok thanks will need to take it to a local garage then to get it ignition timed properly what shall i tell them to set the timing to? Not much people know about the starlets the last one who done my timing belt done it out by 1 tooth, then had to be corrected by TD. Link to post Share on other sites
H_D Posted January 6, 2019 Share Posted January 6, 2019 http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/how-to-set-timing.41744/ Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted January 6, 2019 Share Posted January 6, 2019 You can use the marks on the oil pump, crank pulley, cam gears and distributor to set it all at base, if you line all the marks up it’ll be fine until you get it checked with a timing light Link to post Share on other sites
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