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Has Anyone Run/running A Blitz K1 Turbo?


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If so do you suffer from immense boost creep?

Fitted mine today and tbh its shite. My actuator is set at .5 bar, upto 5000rpm it creeps to .7, can deal with the and would adjust my actuator to creep to a bar BUT come 5000rpm it goes metal and within the space of 1000rpm im at 1.2 bar, not what i want to be slamming through standard internals. Its just wait wait wait, 1 bar for a split second them i changing gear.

I did notice when fitting, the exhaust side looks identical to a ct9 same size wastegate/wastegate flap and exhaust blade size. Is this just Blitz being crap and not realising its going to need a bigger wastegate. I just feel like lobbing the thing now.

Can anyone suggest anything to help? I did take the actuator that came with it off and put my toytuing one on, could the standard style actuator be a blitz one an be able to sort it out (cant see how but never know)

I know the real answer is probably going to be port the wastegate, but i dont fancy taking a grinder to such an expensive turbo and really should i have to stupid blitz. Would porting even sort it on on this turbo?

Wish id bought a GT spec one off enzo now, oh and my setup is blitz k1, jam mani, fmic, decat, zorst, front mounted air filter and a blitz access ecu mapped for a k1.

Cheers

David

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Why is it set to such low boost? Why not run it higher? Standard internals can handle a bar aslong as the engine is healthy.

Other than that, you could restrict the airflow a bit but then you'd lose power.

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Why is it set to such low boost? Why not run it higher? Standard internals can handle a bar aslong as the engine is healthy.

Other than that, you could restrict the airflow a bit but then you'd lose power.

Its set so low to try and combat the creep, if i set it higher it just creeps sooner. Standard internals will handle a bar but they wont when its creeping to 1.2. I really dont want to piss about restricting airflow when im on a hybrid seems stupid

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Its set so low to try and combat the creep, if i set it higher it just creeps sooner. Standard internals will handle a bar but they wont when its creeping to 1.2. I really dont want to piss about restricting airflow when im on a hybrid seems stupid

port the GW, it will sort it!! take about 1-2mm from it. And it VERY easy so the cot the turbo doesnt matter.

DO IT!!!

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i would be very careful if you decide to port it, as its quite old now and could course more harm then good.

my advice would be get a good ebc (apexi, hks, blitz) to try and control the boost better and get it mapped that should solve your problem :thumbsup: you'll be surprised how much of a difference a good map will do. plus the ebc will regulate boost much more efficiently and accuratly then just an actuator.

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There is no way im porting it, it wasnt cheap either so dont plan on breaking it. I could get it mapped etc but i wanted to do this on a budget and do it all with bolt on mods. Tomorrow im going to stick the actautor it came with on, its has outlets for hi/lo so ill plug all that in and see what it does.

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well getting high power at a budget isn't really the way to go... if you really want rid of the creep and and potential fueling troubles get it mapped (properly with an emb) if not then you just gotta expect to have problems, are cars arnt meant and never will run nicely with just bolt on mods with out being properly mapped.

have you even checked the afr's? as the hybrid will have a greater flow of air then a ct9 which could potentially be confusing your ecu and making you run silly lean.

sorry if that sounds harsh i just think if you spend all this money getting upto the level you have why skimp on such an important area.

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No ive not checked the afr's checked i only put it on today. I get what your saying about the tuning on a budget but i dont see the problem with this set up. It came off a car that had this set up in japan, the ecu is clearly marked for a K1, the only real difference is the engine its going through.

Anyway im going to put the blitz actuator on and plumb in the hi/lo, im hoping this will calm it down, like when you take the hi/lo off a ct9 it increases boost, maybe this will decrease it putting it back in. I was also thinking maybe the ECU talks to the standard boost controller, like something blitz set up within the access ecu.

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ah ok i didnt see the blitz access at the end of your first post, well i wouldnt worry to much about the afr's then but would still be good to get them checked.

report back if the blitz actuator made a difference? there the same as the jam i think so you might find you can only run a 1bar high boost not completly sure though.

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They definatly love to boost.

But progress has been made thankfully, initally tried the blitz actuator, hi boost, 1.3 bar before i thought fook this so no idea what it fully boosts to in hi, lo boost, .6 bar creep up to 1.15.

So back to the drawing board, decided to put the air box back on with HKS panel filter and the blitz actuator. Hi 1.3 again BUT lo held 0.6 all the way to the redline, i knew low boost runs off just the actuator so thought yay no more creep and i can increase the boost using the toytuning actuator.

Low and behold it worked, so i have the stock air box with the toytuing actuator plumed into hi/lo so lo boost .85 bar and hi 1.05 bar.

Its a fookin animal when it get to a bar, totally love it. Only thing i think is that the air box is restricting it a bit top end and also im not hitting a bar till 4000 rpm which again im thinking it down to the air box. Been having a look around and most people who run/have run a k1 have the efi pipe on and either air box or open filter at the back of the bay. So im guessing blitz designed this with the efi pipe in mind. Im going to try an open filter in back of bay see how it responds.

Only thing that concerned me was how much i had to wind the actuator in to get it boosting a bar. CT9 was at 0.7 and ive wound it in another 7 turns to get a bar on the k1 but one of my intercooler pipes leaks over .6 bar so i guess it could be due to this, i just couldnt be arsed to look for leaks after all the messing about ive had to do.

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sounds good matey,

just a question I've got a similar problem on the ct9,

with the tt actuator did you tpiece it to the turbo and then too the hi/lo boost solinoid?

if so what did you do with the pipe that goes from that to the nipple on the efi pipe?

Thanks matey :D

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sounds good matey,

just a question I've got a similar problem on the ct9,

with the tt actuator did you tpiece it to the turbo and then too the hi/lo boost solinoid?

if so what did you do with the pipe that goes from that to the nipple on the efi pipe?

Thanks matey :D

Yeah ive got a pipe from turbo to actuator then a t piece in the middle that goes to hi/lo solinoid. The pipe that come from the nipple on the efi goes to the bottom port of the solinoid, just find a pic of a standard engine an plumb it so it looks the same.

@ Jay, i didnt realise the efi fitted with just the bung removed i put some silicon joiner there, will change that now, cheers.

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ok dude thanks for that, but one thing i don't have the efi anymore filters been relocated to the front, any ideas on what to do with that pipe now?

Ah reet, leave it venting to the atmosphere, if you block it you will be in perminant lo boost.

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Right i now have everything sorted, no boost creep, no intercooler leaks no nothing.

Only think is im not hitting full boost till 4k, ive been told this is laggy as fook and should be more like 2.7k full boost.

Could this be due to the fact there was a crack in the wastegate? (i didnt know it was cracked when buying and wouldnt have bought it if i did know)

If not any other ideas?

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Right i now have everything sorted, no boost creep, no intercooler leaks no nothing.

Only think is im not hitting full boost till 4k, ive been told this is laggy as fook and should be more like 2.7k full boost.

Could this be due to the fact there was a crack in the wastegate? (i didnt know it was cracked when buying and wouldnt have bought it if i did know)

If not any other ideas?

Hey mate, Im running a Blitz K1 and I find it very responsive. As recommended there are Ideally suited around a bar and I'd seriously recommend getting it set-up properly on a dyno session.

I had the same prob as you, When mine was set to .6bar (when I did the conversion) she was spiking right up to a bar when giving it some, With this I got the whole lot set-up properly to 8.5bar safely on the rollers. She's still spiking but with slightly better management eventually, I'll increase it to a bar etc...

Mart...

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