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Looking To Convert N/a > 200bhp 4efte


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Okay it's doing my head in now, and I wanna figure out a plan! (I like to think ahead :()

Basically drove a 1 Bar GT the other week and it blew me away, properly craving boost now I've had a taste lol

I don't have skills/tools/experience to convert my car to 4efte, so I'd probably be looking to get it done professionally.

Pukka offer a full conversion inc parts & labour for £1300, or £300 if I can supply parts.

Whether I convert this car or buy a GT/V I will want to run:

- TD12 Turbo kit

- Plug'n'Play ECU

- All supporting mods for 1/1.1Bar boost

What I want to know, is what would be the best way for me to do it with regards to cost? Should I bang out £1300 and take it straight to Pukka or find my own engine/gearbox/ecu/loom etc?

For the modifications; Turbo and Plug&Play ECU will total around £1500 regardless. Would it be best for me to just search for all supporting mods on the used market, or buy a crash damaged GT/V which I can take the parts & mods from? The only thing that would put me off about that, is there would be no guarantee that the engine is gonna last.

Ideas and input very much welcome my friends!

Thanks!

Amjad

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If you can be bothered to source the parts yourself and have enough time on your hands then I'd look around for 2nd hand bargains.

TD12 with a plug & play ECU @ 1 bar should be fine but check it with a wideband just to make sure it's not running lean.

An engine swap isn't that hard, changing the wiring loom would put me off big time though because I hate wiring. If you have the right tools and a good bit of mechanical knowledge you can probably do 99% of the work yourself.

On the other hand, if you have the money I'd just fuck it off to PP and get it done easy and quick, plus the fact that if anything goes wrong you can always go back to them. :(

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The engine you use WILL last as long as its 'rebuilt' as much as possible and that it is not damaged in the first place.

An engine builder will tell you what needs to be done after a full inspection.

Rebuilding and refreshing costs a fair amount which I've had done with my engine which included:

- Cylinder head tested, skimmed, port matched and chemically cleaned.

- Engine block tested, skimmed, bores rehoned and chemically cleaned.

- Three angle valve grind (to reseat valves)

- Crank polished

- Intake ports port matched

- New Toyota oil pump

- New Toyota piston ring set

- New ACL bearings

- New Toyota valve stem oil seals

- New Toyota headgasket

- New Toyota crank oil seals

- New Toyota oil filter flange gaskets

- New Toyota rocker cover gasket

- New Toyota camshaft seals

- New Toyota Inlet manifold gasket

- New Toyota Exhaust manifold gasket

- New Toyota turbo oil return pipe

- New Toyota Rotor arm and distributor cap

- New Toyota Inlet manifold port matched

- New timing belt and rollers

- New Toyota injector seals

- New Blueprint fuel filter

- New NGK sparkplugs

- New Blueprint Waterpump

The main cost is in the machine work and labour itself. The full toyota gasket set is amazing and well priced @£120

By using a running 2nd hand 4EFTE there is no guarantee when it will go.

I'm not recommending you go and replace everything including all the valves but its just an option.

It would become an ultra fresh engine and would be far more reliable. Just how I want my car to be.

Especially as you are concerned that there is no guarantees said engine will last.

Think of it as an investment and more worthwhile than jumping straight in with a new turbo setup.

There is no pressure to do that and it would be FAR more beneficial to roll with the CT9 for at least a short while to get things in motion.

Its also VERY useful to do whilst the engine is out.

Us n/a owners have it more difficult as we do not have an FTE engine in the first place.

Whereas turbo owners can rebuild and even forge theirs once it goes.

Hence the extra initial costs in getting the engine and all the wiring.

Its not the best way to do it cost wise but it would save you in the long run and give reassuring peace of mind.

You can't have everything unfortunately :(

Hope this gives you some different insight Amjad.

Joz

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i said on facebook the other day dude, im gunna be forging a 4efte :( and dumping it in place of my n/a :p

really?? Cant remembering you saying that lol

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if i was you ide throw in a stock engine 1st and once you know its a good one and all teething problems are out of the way then start spending money on making it quicker. the step up from 70-130 hp will be enough to keep your power urge at bay :( for a short while anyway

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I know the feeling craving boost mate i drove my v when it was drivable :p and i was amazed and i then found out it has a crazy boost leak so really it was running slow and i thought it was quick :(

Like above i would get pp to do it saves you the hassle

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Thanks everyone for the input, really got me thinking now!

The engine you use WILL last as long as its 'rebuilt' as much as possible and that it is not damaged in the first place.

An engine builder will tell you what needs to be done after a full inspection.

The main cost is in the machine work and labour itself. The full toyota gasket set is amazing and well priced @£120

By using a running 2nd hand 4EFTE there is no guarantee when it will go.

I'm not recommending you go and replace everything including all the valves but its just an option.

It would become an ultra fresh engine and would be far more reliable. Just how I want my car to be.

Especially as you are concerned that there is no guarantees said engine will last.

Think of it as an investment and more worthwhile than jumping straight in with a new turbo setup.

There is no pressure to do that and it would be FAR more beneficial to roll with the CT9 for at least a short while to get things in motion.

Its also VERY useful to do whilst the engine is out.

Us n/a owners have it more difficult as we do not have an FTE engine in the first place.

Whereas turbo owners can rebuild and even forge theirs once it goes.

Hence the extra initial costs in getting the engine and all the wiring.

Its not the best way to do it cost wise but it would save you in the long run and give reassuring peace of mind.

You can't have everything unfortunately ^_^

Hope this gives you some different insight Amjad.

Joz

That's a pretty useful insight for sure! Believe me I'd love to have a rebuilt/forged engine in the car, but seriously I wouldn't be able to afford that for years. Ideally I'd need a low mileage/reliable strong engine!

I wouldn't be able to buy a TD12 kit or ECU for a long time if I go ahead with this, I'll be too poor after the conversion haha!

Amjad............ i see you moving up in the world! :p

hope you go through with this man it'll be awsome

If you have the money i would say go to PP, it'll be 10x eaiser

Haha I really want to now! It's either buying a Glanza in 2 years for up to £4000 and not being able to spend any more, or just continue with this car, spending again a max of £3500-4000 to get it EXACTLY how I want..

if i was you ide throw in a stock engine 1st and once you know its a good one and all teething problems are out of the way then start spending money on making it quicker. the step up from 70-130 hp will be enough to keep your power urge at bay :( for a short while anyway

Definitely, I would certainly keep it CT9 powered for a while! As above, I wouldn't be able to afford a new Turbo kit for a LONG time lol..

The only thing is, I'd want to have all the supporting mods like FMIC, Actuator, FPR, FCD, Mani, Decat & Exhaust. It's the cost of buying those parts that is a contributory factor that makes me want to buy a modified V rather than convert my car!

I know the feeling craving boost mate i drove my v when it was drivable :( and i was amazed and i then found out it has a crazy boost leak so really it was running slow and i thought it was quick

Like above i would get pp to do it saves you the hassle

It was mad! Auto GT at 1Bar, albeit with a leaking mani and running rich yet it was unbelievably quick! I later found out I was only driving it on low boost! :p

yo yo, just trying to price it up, it's hard to get a price really as sometimes you can get a whole car for say 1k, then other time's you can't seem to buy a standard engine for no less than 500!!!!!

Hey Gaz! Yeah I know what you're saying! I wouldn't be in any rush to be honest, cheap as possible would be best for me.

What I'm trying to do (also the purpose of this thread), is to figure out whether I should just stop spending on this car and save up for a V in a few years, or plan a conversion perhaps in the next year or two (if I don't end up having to spend to much when I go away to uni this year!). If you wanted me to wait until you found a car for cheap and buy that for parts, I'd be more than happy to do so!

I don't really know anyone personally that could help me do it myself, or anything. It won't be easy trying to get the cash together believe me! But I'd like the work to be guaranteed and done by reputable tuners like yourselves! :p

As a student I really don't want to own a car that could go pop at any time so reliability would be paramount really!

If anyone else has any suggestions please feel free to add to the thread! B)

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well chap, it's totally up to you, if i was in your position i would think it maybe best to save up slowly and get a v in a couple year's dude, as there's no point having a fast car and not having the fund's to put fuel in it or keep it service'd etc

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No it's not the fuel/running costs I'm worried about to be honest, its the cost of buying all the supporting mods to get it to 1Bar that puts me off compared to buying a readily modified V. However if I did buy one, I would then be stuck with an N/A that I wouldn't be happy with selling (I wouldn't get as much as I want, and would'nt have the heart to break her lol)

I think I'm about 90% sure I'm going to go ahead with the conversion, should funds allow it :)

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