scutch0 Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 will a 96 glanza manual ecu work in a manual 98 glanza?as i really want to overcome this power loss between the models!Rich.ps. anyone know of anyone selling one? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lobotomy Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 I was told ages ago the 98's ran a less agrressive map on the ECU -- how have you found this out Scutch? (sorry I've been away a while if you've poseted up elsewhere) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SiCaln Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 shudv said earlier Rich i was selling an early one on ebay not too long ago Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scutch0 Posted November 12, 2006 Author Share Posted November 12, 2006 @adrian: eksjay mentioned it in another thread.when i bought my suspension setup i drove the 97 glanza the suspension was on, and it was much faster... the boost came in savagely compaired to mine, so i assumed it was because of the harder suspension... but it still doesnt seem the same... so i know theres a difference.the question is... will a earlier ecu plug in and work ok? i dont want to buy one and it not work!have you changed yours si?yeah, i do remember you selling one... you were gonna be my next port of call! balls... o well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SiCaln Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 it will fit yes exactly the same plugs, but i didnt do it because i just couldnt be arsed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scutch0 Posted November 12, 2006 Author Share Posted November 12, 2006 im just wondering if its the same wiring though.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SiCaln Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 dude the plugs are exactly the same im sure it will do the trick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_Ragger Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 all glanza ecu's are the same plug style. just unplug old one, plug new one in...check RHDjapan out, they usually have ecu's for sell.. check ebay because there usually on there too Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scutch0 Posted November 13, 2006 Author Share Posted November 13, 2006 yeah, already tried all the usual suspects... no luck.as long as the wirings the same i'll be happy. i guess i'll loose my passenger airbag though? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ecksjay Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 Well there is a slight difference mate, but not enough that you'd think "man this is SO much quicker!".Might be worth just trying one in yours and seeing if there is a difference at all, rather than going balls out and buying one if that aint really the problem.you could have a boost leak somewhere if its noticably slower, or the other glanza you drove may have just had other mods, bypassed, decat, mani etc (jam mani looks stock, gutted cat etc).Might wanna check all the hosing in/around your bov, there's alot of it so might have a small leak somewhere. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scutch0 Posted November 13, 2006 Author Share Posted November 13, 2006 well i the guy i bought my car off says i can go down there and try plugging an older spec one in...but it means going to london... and if i have any problems down there im stuck there. i tried a different ecu in my old starly and it didnt work, so i swapped it back to the original and it took hours for the ecu to reset and allow me to start the car! i just dont want that to happen!true, i dont know what the other car had done to it, but i was sure it was standard. who knows! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ecksjay Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 i plugged mine in and it started on the key, worked no probs, same with swapping to the standard one. something must've been wrong for it not to run properly first time swapping it over Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scutch0 Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 ok, got a 96 ecu, went to plug it in... and its got exactly the same part number!!so that scraps that threory!so my question is, why does my v appear to be slower than others? with the gutted cat im still getting around 8 seconds to sixty without the boost restriction on first and second, the boost holds nicely at .7-.75 bar now (ive fitted a grainier valve). but im also having trouble against a mates 1.9tdi golf 110bhp, theres nothing in it up to 80 then he starts to pull away, but surely his is less powerful, and weighs more? yet 'glanza neil' on here has had a go against a simular version and destroyed it to sixtywhats going on?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scutch0 Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 my next port of call will be leads dizzy and rotor arm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT_Neil Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 something isnt right there mate, next time i see you on a thursday drive mine and see if you can actually feel a difference? and if its massively different then it must be something with the ecu like you thought? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scutch0 Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 ok buddy cheers, this is really pissing me off now... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ecksjay Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 did you actually fit the earlier ecu or just presume that because the model numbers were the same that the internal mapping would be the same??might be worth having another look at it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SiCaln Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 the early and late have different stickers on em, one has a P emblem the other has 2 straight lines on it - black character on white sticker Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scutch0 Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 the ecu is fitted now... yep si's right, the one that was in the car had a p with two lines in the top corner and the one thats in there now has a kinda 'T' shape next to the p.it had all new discs and pads before i bought it, and ive checked them just now and the discs look new. plugs have been done, and the ones that came out looked ok, brown and not white, so its not running lean. dizzy and rotor arm are the next on the list, but its had a new stainless system fitted, so its not coming from there, ive gutted the cat, as i thought it might have collapsed.is there a chance it could be down on compression? will there be any tell tale signs if it is? or will it just run like a bag of shite?i have also noticed when i was setting up my grainier valve that fuel cut seems to occur just before .9 bar on my gauge? i thought it was just after @ .93bar? also, manifolds, i know theyre prone to cracking, so i need to check that again, but is it likely to be much louder (exhaust wise) ifits cracked? as i had my standard system on there untill a few weeks ago, and it was quiet as a mouse?any other things to check would be good? might check my bov too. the turbo appears to be in good shape, as you get a little haze out the exhaust when its first started, but after that its perfectly clear when booting it. plus very little signs of oil in the tmic.any help would be great as im feeling real shit about this now. i want my quick glanza. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ecksjay Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 fuel cut is variable, mine kicks in almost dead on 0.9bar, but due to innaccuracies with the gauges there's no exact figures as it WILL vary.also, if you're banging it off fuel cut then this will certainly not help, it does no end of damage to the engine. i've only hit it once, recently in fact, and i felt like throwing up after, was horrible what bov do you have? if its one of them wierd orange hks pipe things (i think it is) then they're renowned to leak to be honest, me and a friend have discussed it before aswell as with our bloke in japan and it was the general consensus that they're a bit crud because they are prone to leaking boost, which may be a reason why you're down on power.i just run the stock bov now and im more than happy with it, and have no problems with it feeling slow, as it pulls like a nutter in first and second (NO grip in first, as it'll scrabble and squeal about, bang it in second and that little ct9 squeals its heart out and you're away, not much else is that responsive off the mark i've found ).if i was close i'd take you out mate, see if there's a difference. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scutch0 Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 nah, i hit fuel cut twice, once when i had a boost leak and the other when i was setting up the boost level. i know the feeling bud... i felt the same!see i have quite a bit of grip in first, it does spin a bit, but not like you'd expect 130bhp, it almost feels simular to my old n/a.yeah, gonna take out the bov today and see what happens.i have a sneaking feeling it might be the leads atm, because when i took them out to change my plugs i found water marks round the second lead (around the stem) it does feel almost as if its maybe running on three? but it idle's fine? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Enzo Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 thinking about it after speaking to you im totaly stumped, have you checked the rottor arm and dizzy cap yet bro? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scutch0 Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 no, as i dont want to disturb it if it is fucked, as i cant afford a new one till the end of the month. but thats the plan. get dizzy and rotor arm sorted when i get paid. i really dont want to have to spend £90 on a set of leads if it isnt the dizzy though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ecksjay Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 can you not just source some stock/any leads to borrow to check if they're ok? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
miracle411 Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 Have you uprated your actuator scutch?? Maybe you should invest in the HKS one if not, i also read something about the 1st and 2nd gear restriction in Glanza's being bypassed somehow, you done that too?? Sorry can't be more helpful, i'm still learning myself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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