Jump to content

Dumping And Chattering


Recommended Posts

hi

not long had my glanza but is it right for it to be dumping and chattering?if i let my foot of slowly it will chatter but if i do it quickly it will dump? i also have a boost problem do you have any suggestions on what to check and how etc?

joe

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine does same thing i just thought all dumpvalves would be similar due to the pressure and the spring im using a crappy ebay jobby atm if i dump at 0.8 it goes really high pitched like a ssqv or if i dump at 0.2 bar it goes twish chater chater

Link to post
Share on other sites
Seriously dude, your going to have to give a lot more info than that if you want an answer.

What dump valve are you using, how is it set up etc?

Boost Problem? That could mean a million different things.

Help us to help you!

sorry..its a blitz dump valve.im unsure of the model. it has the hi lo boost disconected and i think its had the limiter off 1st and 2nd. ive checked my actuator whice is the standard one which is moving fine.ive checked for loose pipes and i cant seem to find one.

im unsure of what actual boost im getting but ill be getting a gauge asap to find out.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Mine does same thing i just thought all dumpvalves would be similar due to the pressure and the spring im using a crappy ebay jobby atm if i dump at 0.8 it goes really high pitched like a ssqv or if i dump at 0.2 bar it goes twish chater chater

well now uve sed that i think because i mite be running so little boost its doing the same as yours on 0.2.would it not be getting enough pressure to open the dumpvalve fully then?

Link to post
Share on other sites

I dont think you have a boost problem reading the above.

You cant really make any judgements or alterations on the boost until you have a boost gauge installed, so until you have one set up dont worry about the boost.

The issue here lies with your dump valve. The spring will be set too strong and wont be allowing the valve to open at lower boost levels. Im pretty sure Blitz valves are adjustable, so check the top of the valve for an adjustable screw of some sort. Loosen this and it should start dumping at lower boost levels.

Link to post
Share on other sites
throw up a decent pic of your engine bay, if your actuator arm is moving easy id suggest getting a hks one, the standard springs are crap in actuators,there should be quite a bit of resistance in the actuator which in turn holds boost properly.

Here you go...

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have exactly the same set up on mine and it does as u r explaining. I think its completely normal as you dont have enough pressure to break the seal on the dump valve hence it goes back through the turbo and the air filter to give the chatter. you can hear this if u put your head under the bonnet and rev it but yeh its fine.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I also have the exact same set-up aswell, mine does this when the scew is all the way in on the top of the blitz blow off, this means the spring is too strong and compressed inside the blitz, this will then not open at low rpm as theres not enough pressure to open, meaning it will go back to the turbo and cause chatter through the air filter, loosen out the screw on the top of the blitz to loosen the spring inside and this will more or less stop the chatter, im running around 0.8bar of boost and the screw on the top is about half way in and it sound mint, bit of chatter at low revs and a loud dump in boost ^_^

Link to post
Share on other sites
Yeh mines about half way and sounds good ^_^

Can the turbo be damaged though if you were to do the spring up all the way so it chatters all the time or block the pipe off of the intercoller piping off completely??????????

Yeah i think it can damage the turbo but not sure, my mate hav the d.v blocked up and had an external wastegate, sounded absolutely mint and had it like that for like 5-6month on a TD04 and was fine, some say it does damage the turbo but my mates was fine :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok decided to check my actuator today while I was changing plugs and I found out that I could fully open it by hand. <br /><br />Orded my hks on but havnt a clue how to fit it or set it up. anyone got any tips on how to set them up?<br /><br />Joe<br />

Link to post
Share on other sites

you shouldn't be able to open the actuator fully by hand anyway... if you can the spring is probably fooked. when you get your hks you'll soon find you can barely move the dam arm let alone open it.

the chatter you hear is completely normal mate, just the spring is on the hard side and not opening soon enough under the pressure.

there isnt a definitive guide as each car varies so much, but basics would be take off your intake pipe (the back one with your filter on) swear excessively until you have managed to get the HKS actuator on and take off all the skin from your knuckles, adjust the actuator so its 1 or 2 screws in and is enough to hold tort against the wastegate... take it for a drive (you dont need to put the intake pipe on for a quick blast) see what its boosting then go from there. better to under boost at first then over boost.

stand back look at your ruined burnt and sore hands but enjoy a better faster boosting V ^_^

Link to post
Share on other sites
Yeah i think it can damage the turbo but not sure, my mate hav the d.v blocked up and had an external wastegate, sounded absolutely mint and had it like that for like 5-6month on a TD04 and was fine, some say it does damage the turbo but my mates was fine ;)

Yeh theres big argument but frm where i c it the turbo is spinning one way and you are trying to put the pressure back through it the other way when you dump so must fuck the blades, bearings etc. This is why i would personally block it up and still chatters at low revs anyway ^_^

Link to post
Share on other sites
Yeh theres big argument but frm where i c it the turbo is spinning one way and you are trying to put the pressure back through it the other way when you dump so must fuck the blades, bearings etc. This is why i would personally block it up and still chatters at low revs anyway ^_^

People say it does, some say it doesn't.. Someone on here (think its David Ashton?) has had no bov for 10k miles and his turbo is fine.

Link to post
Share on other sites

just to add... stalling up the compressor wheel doesn't make the wheel go the other way. the air simply gets pushed back towards the turbo, the pressure hits the comp blades and chops the air giving that distinct 'flutter' noise.

yes over a prolong period of time, say years it might effect the life of the turbo but there so cheap whats it matter if it poops a seal or bearing lol ;)

I had no bov on mine for about a year... if i could i would have no bov on my subaru ^_^

Link to post
Share on other sites
just to add... stalling up the compressor wheel doesn't make the wheel go the other way. the air simply gets pushed back towards the turbo, the pressure hits the comp blades and chops the air giving that distinct 'flutter' noise.

yes over a prolong period of time, say years it might effect the life of the turbo but there so cheap whats it matter if it poops a seal or bearing lol ^_^

I had no bov on mine for about a year... if i could i would have no bov on my subaru ;)

Oh rite i was unaware of that ^_^

correct me if i am wrong though but not dumping the air and passing it back through the turbo gives you more turbo lag when you go to boost again???

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...