Tintin_SR Posted January 2, 2007 Author Share Posted January 2, 2007 ....a stock ecu?? :/also, you need to reduce the size of the pics in your sig mate, they're fucking huge! lol how do i do that? Link to post Share on other sites
whitestarlet Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 i was gonna give a write up on this but done a weee search and found this topic that was covered earlier.http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....06&hl=5e-fehope it helps Link to post Share on other sites
Nanglebadger Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 @Scutch0 so wot would happen then if i plugged that ecu u have there into my car as she is now (with the wirin done by a pro obviously)??????????? Wot else would i need and where from??Phil. Link to post Share on other sites
scutch0 Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 me and geo spoke about this for ages phil, this is what we came up with.the jdm 4efe starlets came with the jdm inlet manifold, yellow injectors (compaired to our green ones), and this ecu which has a rpm limit of (we believe) around 7000rpm.anyone with the jdm mani will agree that sometimes the 6k rev limit isnt enough with the mani fitted.the jdm 4efe's run around 90-99bhp but thats on 105 ron fuel, some also use a distributorless ignition system, so that would be the bit that would need to be modified, you could find one of these ignition systems and try it, but theres no guarantee it would work with your wiring anyway.this was going to be my n/a project before i bought the v, so until someone trys this out we will never know for certain what gains are to be had. Link to post Share on other sites
Tintin_SR Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 stan_the_man lol he is ma pal he got his sr after being in my 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Nanglebadger Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 hhhhmmmmmmmmmmm i see richard i see, gives me something to think about for now man ta!Phil. Link to post Share on other sites
Mikey Jay Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Phil, found out a little bit about the lightweigh pulleys.In short, the lighter weight means that less engine energy is being used to drive the pulleys, therefore allowing more power to be put down by the wheels, thus giving a few horsepower/better engine response.This can be further improved by underdrive (smaller) pulleys which are even lighter and take far less power to drive. However, this can have negative effects as not as much energy is going to stuff such as lights, power steering etc.Personally would go for standard size but lightweight as get some benefit but without any risk. Link to post Share on other sites
Mikey Jay Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Suppose it's chosing what you want to sacrifice, tis just don't want to underpower the power steering for example but can sacrifice power on stuff like the heater and so on.Only has any negative effect if you 'underdrive' on the new pulleys you fit (where smaller sized pulleys are used) whereas if you simply use lighter material pulleys you get slightly smaller gains without risk (still making a gain though). Link to post Share on other sites
Idrees Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 The SR revs to 6200 but when I get a lift to school in the morning its much quicker because of the cold engine! and its then revs to just over 6500rpm! Link to post Share on other sites
Mikey Jay Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Idrees going for the ol' cold air approach ;) Link to post Share on other sites
ecksjay Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 6.5k on a cold engine?er, good work ;) Link to post Share on other sites
Mikey Jay Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Don't have a clue what kind of revs I do, as don't have a rev gauge ;)Don't tend to go to particularly high revs anyways thinking about it. Link to post Share on other sites
Idrees Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 6.5k on a cold engine?er, good work ;)How much would you expect? Link to post Share on other sites
paul w Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 The SR revs to 6200 but when I get a lift to school in the morning its much quicker because of the cold engine! and its then revs to just over 6500rpm! Pop goes the engine! Any engine should always be allowed to warm up to normal operating temp before caning the tits off it! Cold oil and engine + bouncing it off the limiter = engine wear! Link to post Share on other sites
Nanglebadger Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Nice research there MJ mate, i agree with u same size but lightweight would probably be best then to reduce any negative side effects.Phil. Link to post Share on other sites
whitestarlet Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 The SR revs to 6200 but when I get a lift to school in the morning its much quicker because of the cold engine! and its then revs to just over 6500rpm! 6.5k on a cold engine?er, good work very delicately put!! lolIdrees_SR thats not really a great idea!! least let the engine warm up it ll last longer Link to post Share on other sites
Tintin_SR Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!! Sum one went in to the front of my car the day!! He hasnâ??t even got a license or anything! Got a new bumper and wing ordered going to have to get them spray them!!! Link to post Share on other sites
Nanglebadger Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 ah fuck no way mate!!!!!!!! that fuckin blows wot a wanker!!!!!!! hope u get her sorted asap!!!!!Phil. Link to post Share on other sites
Mikey Jay Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 Ouch, sorry to hear that matey, as Phil has said, hope you get it sorted soon.Phil, will be phoning up the place near me soon and finding out costs and and so on, and shall also ask about reductions for group buys. Link to post Share on other sites
rmsnoel Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 @Phil Trevor is selling one of them jdm 4efe's for £100. 40k ish on it i thing and he's bound to have the ecu. Link to post Share on other sites
Nanglebadger Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 Excellent MJ keep me posted!!!NOEL'S BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WOOHOO!!!!! good to hear from u again mate!!!!! I've no idea who this trevor guy is lol, i know he's somethin of an enigma over here (well in my head he is because I've heard very little about him but what i have heard is outstanding), i may look into that mate thanks!!!Phil. Link to post Share on other sites
Mark Edwards Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 A different ecu or at least a piggyback is definately the way forward for either an n/a or a turbo car. Almost all cars run rather rich as stock, so reducing the air/fuel ratio will give an instant increase in power. Also it will allow more ignition advance giving even further gains. I know it's overkill for an n/a, but i have the motec M4 pro from my mr2 going on at some point. This should get some at least noticable gains from the engine and also give better fuel economy at the same time from running it as it needs to be and not running rich. Unichip do a very capable piggyback as do greddy with the emanage, both a reasonable price. Link to post Share on other sites
Jozinobi Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Pop goes the engine! Any engine should always be allowed to warm up to normal operating temp before caning the tits off it! Cold oil and engine + bouncing it off the limiter = engine wear! This is so true.I always warm the engine up with gentle driving until it gets to normal temps before hard driving.Joz Link to post Share on other sites
Idrees Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Point taken about the engine man, calm down guys. Link to post Share on other sites
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