Browner Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 (edited) Hi guys I am having serious braking issues with my Glanza. I run levin twin pot calipers on the front, grooved discs on the back and HEL braided lines all round. A few days ago I got a Tegiwa brake master cylinder stopper fitted and since then the brakes are lethal. Up to 50mph they stop okay but anything over that they keep locking up on me. Before my brake pedal used to engage fully around two thirds or three quarters of the way down, whereas now its like it's hitting something solid not even halfway down and it won't let me engage the brakes fully. Then sometimes the pedal hops up and down slightly under my foot. At high speeds it's very dangerous and my only way of slowing the car is down through the gears and using the handbrake which I don't want to be doing.Could it be that the cylinder stopper is too tight? also would it help running 5.1 brake fluid instead of dot 4? It feels like there is still a bit of air in the system as they are a bit spongey still, or maybe the dot 4 is causing bubbles in the system with the heat? Also do EBC make red stuff to fit levin twin pots? Thanks,Conor. Edited April 25, 2012 by Browner Quote Link to post Share on other sites
micky boy Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Hmm this is a funny one lol..The hopping up and down on the pedal is that not the ABS kicking in? but then again why are you locking up if that was the case? as you shouldnt with ABS have you tryed takeing the brake master cylinder stopper off again to see if its any better? i cant see it been the Dot 4 causeing it to lock up either as its locking up befor the fluid is getting hot! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Browner Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 Would I be better remove the ABS altogether? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keri-WMS Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Sounds to me more like the brakes are suddenly working better due to the stopper, but you're not used to it. If a given wheel locks, the brakes are powerful enough in that wheel. Do do mean the wheel locking up, not that the pedal locks up without allowing you to brake?Shuddering under your foot is either ABS, or warped discs.What pads are you running at the moment?Would I be better remove the ABS altogether?No! Don't do that, no need. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Browner Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 I am running standard pads. Who supplies EBC Redstuff pads for Levin twin pots? Sorry maybe I should be more specific. the PEDAL is locking up not the wheels. If the wheels were locking up I would be happy lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
micky boy Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 You could always try it without the ABS and see what it feels like! sure theres a fuse for it somewere! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jamie1st Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 I am running standard pads. Who supplies EBC Redstuff pads for Levin twin pots?Sorry maybe I should be more specific. the PEDAL is locking up not the wheels. If the wheels were locking up I would be happy lolAhh I thought the car was locking up! If the pedal is locking up then yeah I see why you have a major problem!! Cant think why it would though hm... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keri-WMS Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Ok, that sounds dangerous (don't fix faults by fitting upgrades, fix it THEN look at new pads). Possibles are air in fluid, ABS fault, failed seal in master cyl, mechanical problem in the pedal/master cyl due to something the stopper has changed (can't think what though).Were you testing it in the wet? In low-grip situations the ABS kicks in early of course. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flaminsam Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 My advice would be to check your master cylinder. Sounds to me like the piston inside isn't returning fully and may have seized up inside. Quick test for you. Crack off a front brake bleed nipple and see if the pedal travels more. It should also expell brake fluid from the nipple as soon as you touch the pedal. If not then get a new master cylinder. Another thing to check is the push rod from the brake pedal. Make sure it is attached and it is going into the master cylinder. You can see this from looking up under the dash on drivers side. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Browner Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 Tested it in the dry. I don't think the seal in the master cylinder is busted otherwise the pedal would go to the floor wouldn't it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keri-WMS Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Is it's MOT due within a month? If so you could take it for an early MOT which includes running in on a brake tester! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keri-WMS Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 If it's a dual master cyl it'll have two inline pistons/seals, one can fail as far as I understand it. But you're right, it shoud sink more if it's lost a seal...I'm just wondering it the short pedal feel is due to the added stopper effect. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keri-WMS Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 A hard padel and no brakes is NORMALY overheated/faded pads - but:a - You said it started when you fitted the stopper..b - I normally takes a few stops to overheat pads, you say it's speed dependant. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
micky boy Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 I'm just wondering it the short pedal feel is due to the added stopper effect.Thats what the brake master cylinder stopper is designed for i believe to give you a much more brake peddle feel as the marster cylinder moves under brakeing as im sure you will know. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flaminsam Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Have you checked the push rod to the master cylinder yet? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Browner Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 Not yet the head is gettin reshimmed this morning and were doing the brakes when the car is back. Just want to get as many angles and opinions on it before I start it so as to check everything possible but it is definitely something to do with the brake master cylinder stopper because it was okay before that Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keri-WMS Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Thats what the brake master cylinder stopper is designed for i believe to give you a much more brake peddle feel as the marster cylinder moves under brakeing as im sure you will know.Yup, what I mean is maybe he has a soft/leaking master, but the stopper is hiding it by stiffening everything up.... :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keri-WMS Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Not yet the head is gettin reshimmed this morning and were doing the brakes when the car is back. Just want to get as many angles and opinions on it before I start it so as to check everything possible but it is definitely something to do with the brake master cylinder stopper because it was okay before thatIt hasn't pinched/kinked a metal brake line has it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Asad Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 How much did you tighten the stopper? Did you nip it up "just right" or murder it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbo Grant Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 The vac pipe still on the servo? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Browner Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 Still waiting on the car didn't have the right size shims so should be doing the brakes tomorrow I'll let you know how I go Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.