Ngk iridium, pre-gapped?, edit: pop/bang on boost, help?

[AdamB]

Wrong, if its doing it on the over-run its just running a little rich, no problem. If doing it during acceleration theres a problem, missfire of somesort where the un-burnt fuel is igniting in the turbine housing.

Have you got an AFR gauge? If not I wouldn't have just thrown the ecu in and "expect" it to be fine. I would still get it checked on a wideband and det cans to ensure its not doing any harm to your setup.

[micky boy]

Mine only spat flames when comeing off the throttle!!!

Yours shouldnt be sotting flames out why you are accellerating!!!!Something must be rong but im unsure what!

[A L 3 X]

That's exactly it I'm sure it's on throttle not sure if its just a bang or flame

What could the options be that are causing the issue? I've not had it checked as yet just waiting for my mate to sort his wideband out but I only fitted it the other day I will be getting it checked ASAP...

Can't understand what's causing a miss as I've just replaced all the ignition bits

[micky boy]

It could be the fact that the gap on the plugs is to small there for not burning the fuel qucik enough in the combustion chamber due to the small spark!!!

If you make the gap big enough you get a bigger spark!!! But dont quote me on that though im just going off what it could be!!!

[A L 3 X]

Ah maybe, anyone else reckon its possible?

Done a diagnostic test and theres no fault codes?

If other people think that sounds possible i think ill wait till i can get the afr checked before boosting anywhere, get it checked, if thats ok ill make some det cans, and if its all good there adjust the gap, if its still doing it i dunno what it could be....tbh im pretty sure it did it on the old ecu with old plugs as i made a topic about it, but i thought it was my ebc spiking the boost up to fuel cut levels but i couldnt understand why there was no EML?

i've now got:

JAM ecu

new dizzy cap

new rotor arm

blue magnecores

ngk iridiums

walbro pump done last month?

[Amjad]

May need an FPR, I'd get fuelling checked

[A L 3 X]

Here is the topic I mentioned:

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/index.php?showtopic=56590

And really Amjad? I thought these ECU's didnt need one?

[micky boy]

Hmm wish i was closer to you so you could take me for a run out! Its hard to understand whats going on without going for a drive in it!..Is there no one up for way that has a glanza/GT and knows abit about them?

[micky boy]

Yeah i remember reading that thread! but again its hard to know whats going on without going for a spin in it

[Amjad]

There's no way to be sure really as they were all mapped for diff setups in Japan! I think people add FPR when going TD04 on them

[A L 3 X]

same mate, n my mate has a gt who is gonna check the fuelling but hes gott aget his wideband working, i'm becoming sick to death of it lol, tempted to put it back to 0.8 bar on standard ecu, although like i say i think it still did it, or just fucking sell it and get a normal car lol :/

[Amjad]

I'm sure it won't be anything that you can't sort dude, good luck with it and keep us updated

[AdamB]

Too hard to tell if it will need a FPR or not, but I would doubt it as all these ECU's run slightly rich no matter what setup. So if its been mapped for a td04 and your on a ct9 it will still overfuel. I've heard that they don't tend to like running above stock fuel pressure because it becomes increasingly harder to control injectors as the pressure is increased.

I would take the car for a run, and get to know exactly what its doing, otherwise we can just keep guessing till sun rise. If it is only doing it on the over run then its probably just been a bit paranoid. If its something you can feel like being held back I would be pointing towards a missfire.

[micky boy]

Dont sell it!!! the fun has just begun

It could fine well be nothing might be just you thinking there something rong lol

Like i say if i was closer to you i could go for a spin and see what it feels like to me as i've owned 2 JAm ecus in the past!..Also tbh these ecus have the same daughterboard so should be the same map on it as everyother JAM ecu!!! the daughterboard is just cpoied over and over again!!!

I cant see it running lean as it has its own built in AFR the same as a stock ecu realy but the JAM ECU aughterboard takes over after 0.8bar of boost so there no fuel cut etc hence all after market ecus running rich just like the stock ecu to be on the safe side!!! People run 0.8 boost (stock boost) useing a TD04 without any problems yet the TD04 flows more air the a ct9 but the stock ecu adjusts to run that bit more ait flow if you get me?

[A L 3 X]

Too hard to tell if it will need a FPR or not, but I would doubt it as all these ECU's run slightly rich no matter what setup. So if its been mapped for a td04 and your on a ct9 it will still overfuel. I've heard that they don't tend to like running above stock fuel pressure because it becomes increasingly harder to control injectors as the pressure is increased.

I would take the car for a run, and get to know exactly what its doing, otherwise we can just keep guessing till sun rise. If it is only doing it on the over run then its probably just been a bit paranoid. If its something you can feel like being held back I would be pointing towards a missfire.

That's what I thought mate hence why I bought one of these.

The thing is how do I know what it's doing? I've already done 100 miles and I'm none the wiser, and obviously I don't wanna risk doing damage?

It didn't seem to feel like a flat spot like it used to when I mentioned in that other topic, and also before the ecu and plugs it sometimes used to not pop but kind of sputter and have a flat spot, then start pulling again.

If it was a misfire however what could be the cause as I've changed what I thought was everything?

I may be being paranoid as the gf just said she thought it did it when I let off to change, but I'm pretty sure I let off because it popped.

If it helps I've just pulled the plugs and they all look the same, black on the end of the threaded part and the curved over bit which arcs with the electrode has a kind of white coating like a lambda.

Also it looks to be making my rear bumper go yellow more than the old ecu lol

Dont sell it!!! the fun has just begun

It could fine well be nothing might be just you thinking there something rong lol

Like i say if i was closer to you i could go for a spin and see what it feels like to me as i've owned 2 JAm ecus in the past!..Also tbh these ecus have the same daughterboard so should be the same map on it as everyother JAM ecu!!! the daughterboard is just cpoied over and over again!!!

I cant see it running lean as it has its own built in AFR the same as a stock ecu realy but the JAM ECU aughterboard takes over after 0.8bar of boost so there no fuel cut etc hence all after market ecus running rich just like the stock ecu to be on the safe side!!! People run 0.8 boost (stock boost) useing a TD04 without any problems yet the TD04 flows more air the a ct9 but the stock ecu adjusts to run that bit more ait flow if you get me?

I hope there's no serious issue man I really do, sorry to sound like a boring cunt to you all but it's wound me up something rotten.

[micky boy]

The plugs seam normal mate mine always have a dusting of black on them and if they are all the same colour then its fireing right

And i also had yellow on my rear lip due to it over fueling when i was running the JAM ecu on my white glanza! I still get it now running the blitz ecu but you cant see it as much with me now owning a black glanza lol

Over the last few weeks though i have been takeing all my sensors out and giveni them a clean just for pice of mind lJust so i know they are reading bang on lol im mad i know but im a fussy bugger!

When i took the Temp sensor/ECU Temp sensor out of the thermostat houseing it was like a dull brown colour got the brasso on them and they come up like gold haha!!! I even done my Airtemp sensor the other day that go's into the inlet manifold as that get coted with oil just for peice of mind lol

If i was you just get the fueling checked you might feel happier knowing that its fueling right at the moment you are going to feel paranoid

Edited November 7, 2012 by micky boy

[A L 3 X]

I might try that temp sensor I hear that can cause misfiring issues?

I will get fuelling checked and see if I can make det canss( although I dunno what det sounds like lol)

I dno what could be the issue tho other than plug gaps but if there too small does that cause it?

[micky boy]

Na Temp senosr cant cause a misfire issue if anything if its not reading right or its fucked it will over fuel more then anything!!!

I hope you get the problem sorted if they is one at all! let use know how you get on matey

[A L 3 X]

Hmm so again, what's left that could cause a misfire lol?

N yeah let's hope so mate

[Amjad]

Random guess, your timing isn't out is it?

[A L 3 X]

Ignition?

Checked it before the ecu it was like 8 btdc(I'm guessing, was very close to the white

Mark on ten but not bang on) , the

Jam ecu is meant to advance it more as far as I'm aware hence I

Didn't advance to 10 before fitting the ecu?

[micky boy]

The ecu dose advance it yeah but if its a a tooth out on the timeing belt the ecu wont jump it back a tooth lol

We could be jumping the gun abit hear but its just a though like Amjad has said!..Sometimes when the timeings is out a fair bit it will struggle to start but if its only a tooth out then it would start as normal but you could have problems with it misfiring!

Edited November 7, 2012 by micky boy

[A L 3 X]

Hmm is ignition and cam timing not different?

What's the difference between each?

I thought a timing light checked ignition timing and adjusting this was done by the dizzy, and then cam

Timing was different?

Sorry I'm not all that technical on the workings

Of engines lol

[AdamB]

Static ignition timing should be 10 BTDC. And the PLUGS BEING BLACK MEANS ITS RUNNING RICH! The plugs should be a tanned brown colour, much like your mrs when she slaps on fake tan!

I would check the static ignition timing with a timing light and ensure that it is AT or as close to 10 BTDC, them 2 degrees can make all the difference. Failing that you could have an ignitor problem seeing as you've replaced the wear and tear components.

Guide here on how to set your static ignition timing:

http://www.toyotagtt...w to set timing

I would advise not to boost the car until you can figure exactly why its running rich, it could lead to melting a piston. Get the car checked with a wideband as soon as you can would be your best bet mate.

If it is running that rich it will backfire through the inlet manifold, which is not good. This could be what you are experiencing. It will also give a lack of throttle response and feel dull.

Edited November 8, 2012 by AdamB

[micky boy]

I've never owned one glanza with the plugs been brown all of them have been coked up a little as all of them run rich anyway due to the stock ecu runnig Rich from the factory!

And after all the JAM ecu is a stock ecu with another bord attached to it so its always going to run Rich!

Other that yeah i agree get the timeing checked its deffo worth a shot