Jump to content

Ngk iridium, pre-gapped?, edit: pop/bang on boost, help?


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 102
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If it blows out the spark you will develop a missfire under load.

I'm not sure what the gap spec is when you buy a set new but its always best to measure. I think they are 1.1mm.

You will also get better fuel economy with a larger gap, not that you will likely notice a difference lol.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sure I read somewhere that you should use the biggest gap possible before the spark blows out as it gives you better fuel consumption (not sure if that is true or not). I think there gapped at 1.1mm standard and I'm sure the gap for 1Bar of boost is 0.8-0.9mm but don't quote me on that.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I would adjust it until it suits your engine mate. No harm in being a smaller gap, but its better to run a larger gap.

The gap is not directly related to the boost pressure you run. Its more related to how efficient your ignition system is overall. Remember that you want the least resistance possible. Hence its still possible to run a 1.1mm gap even if you are running 2 bar boost pressure, yet run coil on plug ignition system.

Edited by AdamB
Link to post
Share on other sites

Ive noticed that when i proper boot the car at full boost WOT sometimes the car lets out a hellish pop/backfire(I assume a flame...) now I'm not sure if its due to it running richer as ive just fitted a JAM ecu and turned it up to 1 bar, or if its actually an issue?

The car dont seem to lose power but im not sure as since turning the boost up it usually just spins through second lol

Any ideas if this pop is normal for a richer setup?

Link to post
Share on other sites

When i was running the JAM ecu it used to shot the odd flame out :) thats normal mate lol

And if your car is runnig normal and you are happy with it then dont mess about with it :) keep the plug gap as they are as long as the gaps are all the same leave them :)

Also not sure if its the same for you but every JAM ecu i have had on my car it will idle at 950rpm then if i left it tick over for a few mins it would idle to 1000rpm!

At first i thought i had a sensor problem (ICV) etc but it was only when i put the stock ECU back in it never done it! But soon as i put the JAM ecu back iin was doing the same thing!

And its done it on 2 different JAM ecus so im gessing its just the map on them

Edited by micky boy
Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah right, even when accellerating sometimes? Or just sbout to let off high revs?

You've reassured me if so lol

And i'll be honest mate, not 100% sure, what i did notice though is when i fitted the jam mine idles at like 500 rpm had to turn it up with the idle screw, my standard ecu used to idle up randomly but cant remember if that stopped when i took the AC out?

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've asked a mate of mine to speak to a mechanic and apparently he's said if its doing it on acceleration it must be overboosting and its gonna melt a piston, now I can't see this being right as obviously ive just fitted a jam ecu and its boosting like 0.9999 bar on the gauge, another lad has said it must be overboosting and sparking out....but again I can't see that as I've just fitted new dizzy cap, rotor arm, ngk iridiums and magnecores? Unless I need to change the plug gap?

Someone help, scared to drive the car

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...