Head gasket...questions and How to?

[A L 3 X]

Right, it seems as though I have to do my head gasket, and therefore, I think i'm going to tackle it myself with a mate who is a mechanic but is there a little guide on how to do it as I always feel these help?

- I am thinking of doing the stem seals whilst the head is off, cambelt even tho it was done at 99k km and water pump, is there anything else that would be a good idea, and where could I get some uprated stem seals from?

- As these are non- interference engines how does it work in regards to getting head skimmed and thickness of head gasket if i want to keep it non interference, I take it it is best to skim the head even though the car doesn't appear to have overheated as yet?

What head gasket will be best to run 1 bar ish on TD04, I hear Athena, and where would i get one of these from?

Finally is there anything else I need to beware of, for instance i think i've read before theres something you need to do when removing the cams to stop a spring coming loose or the engine will rattle or something?

[Idrees]

- I am thinking of doing the stem seals whilst the head is off, cambelt even tho it was done at 99k km and water pump, is there anything else that would be a good idea, and where could I get some uprated stem seals from?

I'd get the head rebuilt with new stem seals and the valves reseated, it might not be required but personally that'd what I'd have done, along with having the head chemically cleaned. I wouldn't advise reusing your old belt, regardless or how recently it was replaced. Again, that's just my personal opinion.

- As these are non- interference engines how does it work in regards to getting head skimmed and thickness of head gasket if i want to keep it non interference, I take it it is best to skim the head even though the car doesn't appear to have overheated as yet?

Have the surface checked, if it needs skimming then ask for minimal skimming. The engineers should be able to advise whether or not it actually needs skimming.

What head gasket will be best to run 1 bar ish on TD04, I hear Athena, and where would i get one of these from?

I'd go with a 1.2mm Athena and ARP headbolts for reliability.

[Jhandy]

Before you remove the cams. Take one of the bolts that hold the Cambelt cover on. And ther is a hole on camshaft pulley. (Inside) basically the cog that's turns the other cam. You have to put the bolt through to stop the back of the cog turning.

If your gonna reseat all the valves. Remember you have to check you tapped clearances and they are solid. Not hydraulic. You can get updated stem sills from zisco.

Here is a link about the camshaft bud

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?100863-Cylinder-head-removal-and-installation-info

Hope it helps

[A L 3 X]

- I am thinking of doing the stem seals whilst the head is off, cambelt even tho it was done at 99k km and water pump, is there anything else that would be a good idea, and where could I get some uprated stem seals from?

I'd get the head rebuilt with new stem seals and the valves reseated, it might not be required but personally that'd what I'd have done, along with having the head chemically cleaned. I wouldn't advise reusing your old belt, regardless or how recently it was replaced. Again, that's just my personal opinion.

- As these are non- interference engines how does it work in regards to getting head skimmed and thickness of head gasket if i want to keep it non interference, I take it it is best to skim the head even though the car doesn't appear to have overheated as yet?

Have the surface checked, if it needs skimming then ask for minimal skimming. The engineers should be able to advise whether or not it actually needs skimming.

What head gasket will be best to run 1 bar ish on TD04, I hear Athena, and where would i get one of these from?

I'd go with a 1.2mm Athena and ARP headbolts for reliability.

Thats what im planning mate, who will i send the head to my mate just mentioned it I don't actually know myself? and will they do all that needs doing on the head?

If I say minimal skinning will that still be non-interference with a 1.2mm athena?

[A L 3 X]

Before you remove the cams. Take one of the bolts that hold the Cambelt cover on. And ther is a hole on camshaft pulley. (Inside) basically the cog that's turns the other cam. You have to put the bolt through to stop the back of the cog turning.

If your gonna reseat all the valves. Remember you have to check you tapped clearances and they are solid. Not hydraulic. You can get updated stem sills from zisco.

Here is a link about the camshaft bud

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?100863-Cylinder-head-removal-and-installation-info

Hope it helps

Ah I see, and basically put it through both cogs as that guide says?

The guide looks helpful but really fucking confusing :/ haha

What do you mean about reseat valves and tap what? you mean set the tappet clearances?

[Jhandy]

No there is only one hole

If you are reseating the valves. You will have to check the tappet clearances between the tappet and the cam. Other wise. If they are to close. You could cause a valve to burn out. Or make the engine run hot where the valve is not shutting properly

Edited February 19, 2013 by Jhandy

[A L 3 X]

Ah, whats the purpose of that then?

Im hoping the machine shop will reseat the valves is that normal? And then checking the tappets thats just where you use feeler gauges to set em am I right? what clearance should they be?

[Jhandy]

Where you reseat the valves you are pushing them higher. The machine shop will do it if you ask. But will cost a little bit more worth it though I got my head back today. Fully reconditioned. But ask them to reseat the valves and set up the clearances. If they say you need new shims. Just ask then to take off what is needed on the stem head

[A L 3 X]

Ah yeah ill get them to do that, and fit new stem seals

What do you mean with the shim thing? So i understand what im asking them.

[Jhandy]

Basically the shims sit in the tappet. Most engine shops say you need new ones because the clearance had changed. But you can get them to grind off the top of the valve so the clearance is correct

[A L 3 X]

Ah I see mate cheers, I've asked my

Mate

To call them tomorrow as he owns a

Garage and can likely get trade discount, what did you pay for yours doing

So i can gauge it?

[Jhandy]

I had mine done on the side for 80 usually full recon is 500. But for what u need I wouldn't be looking at no more then 200 from a engine shop

[akyakapotter]

Alex so your 100% it's your head gasket that has gone then ??

[A L 3 X]

Fuck me 500 quid lol? What did you have done haha?

So basically I need to ask for this doing:

-Check if head needs skimming, if so skim it the minimal amount required so it can still be non Interference.

-Reseat valves with stem seals I supply and set up the valve clearances(if they say new shims are needed, tell them to take what is necessary from the stem head)

-And possibly chemically clean head dependant on price

Aky...I've not done a sniff test but after that other topic I took it out for a bait last night, pulled up and switched it off, rad pipes were hard and so I lifted the lid from expansion tank but left the pipe in the coolant, and some small bubbles were appearing, so pretty convinced it needs doing

[Jhandy]

No it only cost me 80. And a full head recon. And that is all correct bud

[A L 3 X]

I mean to say it was meant to be 500 though, so what did you have done extra over what I'm asking for?

[Jhandy]

I had mine all chemically cleaned all core plugs replaced. Valve guides changed. Spray painted silver all bolts cleaned and re threaded. Etc

[A L 3 X]

Is there any bits I've missed that I should really do? Valve guides maybe?

[Asad]

The top pipe remains hard till the stat opens up and fan comes on, what's the temp gauge like?

You've got the basis covered for a full head gasket replacement, valve guides rarely go just a quick check over is all that's needed

I have some upgraded valve stem seals if your interested let me know

[AdamB]

It really depends on your budget. But if your not too worried about a budget and want it to be reliable you may aswell go for a full recon, not that expensive if you do it yourself.

The only things you'll need to take care of is:

Make sure the cams are tensioned upon removal

Measure valve guides and valve stems for wear (replace if necessary)

Measure valve clearence to determine correct shim thickness

Everything else is pretty much norm for any gasket replacement.

Don't worry much about keeping the engine non-interference. The stock headgasket is 1mm thick, and the stock pistons come with a small dish. You would probably need to skim in excess of 0.4mm off the head before you even need to think about that. Most cylinder heads will get skimmed less than 0.1mm depending on the engineers lathe and how competent they are.

[akyakapotter]

The top pipe remains hard till the stat opens up and fan comes on, what's the temp gauge like? You've got the basis covered for a full head gasket replacement, valve guides rarely go just a quick check over is all that's neededI have some upgraded valve stem seals if your interested let me know

Sounds like my stat isn't opening then but my gauge goes to normal only changed it last year aswell for a genuine toyota one to.

Shouldn't he get the head pressure tested just to be on the safe side ??

Edited February 20, 2013 by akyakapotter

[JayJ]

You might find this helpful too http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?44868-head-removal-from-engine-block-*