How to move forward after fueling/ignition/timing problem

[Taggy]

I am just trying to work out how much its going to repair the boxy, so I am trying to put a plan together on how I am going to do it. The main problem is identifying how it happened to start with.

If you can think of anything else i should replace/test let me know

1. I was going to start with the Walbro fuel pump, gonna flow it into a liter jug and then work out if its flowing the correct amount of fuel as per its manufacture specs.

2. Moving on to the fuel lines, I think i will replace them, relatively inexpensive and peace of mind.

3. Fuel filter is just a standard inline paper filter so will check that is allowing sufficient fuel through

4. Send the injectors off to Mike to be flow tested, I am a bit worried that the injectors were maxed and may have failed causing this; I may just change them for peace of mind.

5. When its rebuilt, check the ignition timing, should I set it to 0 degrees on the 5e, via the 4e crank timing marks on the cover?

6. Back on the rollers for some fault testing to check ignition, fueling and I will stick a wideband on.

Anything else?

Edited March 20, 2013 by Taggy

[PaulStarletSR]

my guess would be the injectors mate,timing shouldve been fine. injectors may just have shat themselves

[TrisK]

I would also get an exhaust temparature sensor tag.

AFR and exhaust gas and you can tell if its ever getting that hot again!

[mattyD]

I would also get an exhaust temparature sensor tag.

AFR and exhaust gas and you can tell if its ever getting that hot again!

x2

after your unfortunate problems mate I will be getting an exhaust temp gauge for this exact reason so at least you can take one positive from this and theres nothing like helping other members

In all seriousness, I think what you have listed covers everything my guess is on either the injectors or temps getting to high

[Asad]

re-wire the fuel pump to ensure constant 12v when in use

aeromotive fuel pressure regulator + in line fuel filter...better fuel lines

[Flaminsam]

Don't quote me on this but I believe the ignition timing should be set to 15 degrees BTDC. Its nearly the last mark on the timing cover I believe? And yes I would agree with the AFR and EGT gauges.

[Taggy]

ah fuck 10 degrees, i set it to bloody 0!

[AdamB]

The base static ignition timing is 10 BTDC. That should have been checked on the dyno before any tuning commences. It's the first thing a tuner should check before even touching any other component.

I would advise on an EGT and AFR gauge, the only problem being is that it's okay to display such parameters, but unless your constantly looking at them, you may miss something. This is where a standalone unit becomes very handy in having to use such inputs which could save the engine from disaster.

Edited March 20, 2013 by AdamB

[triple j]

10 BTDC is rite.

[funny onion]

Not to hijack the thread but would not setting the timing right cause the pistons to melt as they did? Just wondering out of interest? Or do people think that other factors (ie Fueling) also played a part?

[AdamB]

Not to hijack the thread but would not setting the timing right cause the pistons to melt as they did? Just wondering out of interest? Or do people think that other factors (ie Fueling) also played a part?

Thats correct, little ignition timing causes an increase in EGT's.

Have a look at this thread that a guy over on TGTT created. He races his glanza in a sprint class and was seeing over 950 degrees C. He posted up his ignition timing at rpm load points, and you can see that there was a fair amount of ignition timing in the middle of the map, around 28 degrees if I remember rightly, and as the boost perssure increased (like in Taggy's case doing 130mph and full boost I assume) the ignition timing was backed off being he thought he was hearing knock, this went right down to 8 degrees which was what caused his high EGT's. I wouldn't expect to see over 850 degrees unless running anti lag or a fairly lean mixture to begin with. Another thing to remember is the cooler the gas going in, the cooler it's going to be coming out.

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?93610-What-could-result-Knock-gt-retarded-timing-gt-high-EGT-!&highlight=egt%2A

However like I said before, the first thing to check as a tuner before even going near anything is to check the base timing with a timing light.

Edited March 20, 2013 by AdamB

[iamlegend]

its not the injectors..

Edited March 20, 2013 by iamlegend