spraying advise

[_shaun_]

looking to spray a couple of bumpers i have a compressor sitting so planing to get a gravity feed gun and a da sander. but stuck for a few things.

can i just use any high build primer?

whats best a 6" or 3" da its for bumpers/bonnet /side skirts and can any one list all the sand paper i will need?

can anyone source 205 black paint?

and can i use any laquer?

any help or if anyone happens to be a spraying around glasgow would be great lol

[_shaun_]

^

[_shaun_]

[PaulStarletSR]

if you get all the shit bro il have a bash at sprayin with u, I've an eye for detail and a steady hand for sprayin

[5T4R7ET N/A]

do some research, you will find that prep and conditions are more important than actaully getting the paint on the bumpers.

get a good mask as well.

[Ryan-11]

Get your primer and paint from the same place, Try Brown Brothers in Glasgow. try and get 2 pack as its better for painting without a spray booth also you dont need to laqure 2 pack paint,

I would go for a 6" da you'll b there all day with a 3" one, rub the hole lot down with p240 grit use scotch brite in the bits u cant get too with the sander, then prime, then p400 then p800 wet and dry watch u dont rub through the primer with the p400, if u want u can just skip the p400 and use p800 wet and dry but it will take longer.

[_shaun_]

do you use the da with the p800 and p400.? dunno if am being an idiot but cant seem to find any 800 or 400 wet and dry to use with a da lol

[funny onion]

What's people's thoughts on laqcuering? (No idea how to spell that haha).

I can never get a good finish. I use rattle cans and have tried different methods and flatting etc

:/

[pacman]

If you're gonna use a rattle can take the chill off of it with a hairdryer, you'll find the paint atomises much finer and will give you a far better finish.

I can't spend much time going into details right now but will reply in more depth later.

Spraying is what I do so if I can give advice I'll be happy to.

[loguey]

Fail to prepare - Prepare to fail.

As said get primer and paint from the same supplier. You should have a local auto paint place.

Work your way through the grades, using the next grade up to take the scratches out from the previous paper used. If an area doesnt need sanding with coarse paper just "key" the surface to give the paint something to stick too. A scotch pad will be best for getting into tight areas aswell as using elsewhere on the parts to be painted. Blow off the dust off and wipe with a degreaser to clean whole panel.

A nice high build primer should fill any little chips and scratches left and then flat with your 800-1500 wet sanding pads. Clean, degrease and dry off with a lint free cloth, wet the floor around where your painting to reduce dust being kicked up from your spraygun (prep in a different place to painting if possible to reduce dust aswell). Finally get some heat going in your painting area and crack on.

And remember have patience.

[Ryan-11]

do you use the da with the p800 and p400.? dunno if am being an idiot but cant seem to find any 800 or 400 wet and dry to use with a da lol

Once its primed give it a light coat of black aerosol black to use as a guide coat for rubbing the primer, go over the whole lot with a DA and sanding block with p400 untill the black is all gone, that way u know the primer is flat, then go over it again with some wet and dry p800 and a sanding block (do it wet) untill its nice and smooth

[Ryan-11]

What's people's thoughts on laqcuering? (No idea how to spell that haha).

I can never get a good finish. I use rattle cans and have tried different methods and flatting etc

:/

Rattle cans aint the best tbh, Try heating whatever your painting up, id give it 3 coats of laquer then once its dry give it a wet sand with some 1500 then a polish up.

[pacman]

There are multiple methods to paint prep. Some swear by wet sanding, others dry. There are also various grades of paper available but you don't need all of them. Day to day I use 80 (rarely), 180, 320, 500 and 1000 and I only ever dry sand pre-paint. Just be aware that wet and dry grades are not equal. The only time I wet sand is on the denib/polishing stage.

Also, it's handy to buy all of your products at the same place but not essential. Pretty much every paint system will work over every primer system so I wouldn't be overly concerned with that. Brown Brothers was mentioned above and they are one of the suppliers I use.

This is how I'd do it and assumes you'll be using base/clear (for high solid paint, sometimes called 2k, you can 320/red scotch the primer and paint straight over that):

Assuming they are used bumpers with minor damage (chips/light scratches) you should da (as said above, use 6" or you'll be there all day) with 320 dry, scuff up the remaining shiny areas with red scotch, clean it off and give the whole thing two or three coats of high build primer. Probably best to use some kind of plastic adhesion promoter on any areas of bare plastics before you apply the high build, I've seen it too many times where no AP was used and it's literally peeled off so imo it's not worth the risk. Do it once and do it right.

Once the primer is dry dust it with black to act as a guide coat and block with 320. Go over the whole thing with 500 on the da, but with a soft interface pad (unsure if you have one of these, it's a 10mm thick foam that sits between the da and the disc), then quickly grey scotch to make sure you haven't missed keying anywhere. Clean it again. As it's 202 i.e. solid black I would go straight over 500/grey scotch with the two or three coats of basecoat. Once the base is thoroughly dry you can lacquer it. Give it a light coat of clear first (known in the trade as a grip coat) then hit it with 2 decent coats leaving 5 minutes to 'flash off' between coats. Refer to the technical data sheet (tds) to find out the mixing ratio (if it's a two part clear) and how long you should leave it to dry. Bare in mind that single pack paint will never last as long as a two pack product, but two pack has it's own risks (ideally you'll be using an air fed visor).

Once the clear is dry denib it with 1500 wet'n'dry paper. Best to soak the paper for at least 20 minutes before using it as it softens the edges and means you're less likely to leave unwanted scratches. I'd also recommend getting some 3000 grit discs and using these wet after 1500. It will save you loads of time when polishing and means there's less risk of burning the paint with the polishing mop.

So there you have it, that's pretty much what I'd do if I were in your position. Just make sure you've got some dust masks/gloves and at the very least a decent vapour mask. These products are not lung friendly.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask and I'll answer them to the best of my ability.

If you want to check out my credentials you can look here and here.

You'll also understand why I'm called PACman