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Leave the two bolts at the bottom of the shock loose, lift the bottom of the disc up, this will take up the slack and eradicate the adverse camber, whilst still supported/lifted tighten the two bolts.

Repeat on the other side and check again.

If all seems good, get the tracking alignment setup to assure correct alignment

Edited by morgey
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Leave the two bolts at the bottom of the shock loose, lift the bottom of the disc up, this will take up the slack and eradicate the adverse camber, whilst still supported/lifted tighten the two bolts.

Repeat on the other side and check again.

If all seems good, get the tracking alignment setup to assure correct alignment

Cheers morgy I'll try that :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

How much should you screw the thread into the body of the shock? And how much doyou need to tighten the locking rings so the spring iisn't lose, just enough to take up the slack or what ?


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So the more I tighten the rings the more tension the spring will be under so will result in the ride being harder? And can you screw the shock into the body of the tube so it comes out the bottom or is that too far because I want it lower, apparently ypu shouldn't losen the rings for the spring to make it lose and then lower the car ontop of the lose srping?


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Ye but what I'm saying is how low can I go , at the minute the tube is filled with the thread so its flush at the bottom but can I lower it more so there is thread sticking out the bottom of the shock ?


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Basically if I losen the lower ring that allows the shock to be screwed into the body of the unit more Nd I can turn it in so much that the thread comes out the bottom of the tube, in term it would sit lower but is it ok for the thread to be showing?


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