Kingcarr Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 from what I understand, a controller will only allow more boost than the actuator will allow, unless I can get a lower spring rated actuator than stock, the only way to solve the issue is to port the wastegate, restrict air flow, install an external wastegate or install an aftermarket management system that will allow for more boost. the aftermarket system wont stop boost creep, but will allow for sufficient fuelling and prevent cut. That's what I understand aout it, but I may be wrong? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Imo I wouldn't use a fcd or an ebc I did have an ebc and I hit problems with overboost... With the air getting colder this time of year the boost tends to spike that's where a good boost gauge comes in you get the best readings from that! Do you have a 255 fuel pump in? I run a JAM actuator and boost sits perfect I would only run a ebc if I was external wastegate TD04 a correct ct9 set up can keep up with a TD04, if you don't have a decat get one and change that with the manifold but before that invest in some grade 7 iridium sparkies get everything flowing right before upping the boost if you have the HKS actuator maybe set it to 0.8 with the blitz ecu Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zeldoz Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 A manual boost controller will lower your boost thus preventing fuel cut and the spikes if you lower it until will not be dangerous. I've done massive reading this morning into the ins and outs of it. I would suggest an adjustable actuator too along with the controller and your problems would be solved..? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kingcarr Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 the HKS actuator I had was stiff, so I guess had a 1 bar or more spring in it. a manual boost controller wont let you adjust LOWER than what your actuator is set to only MORE... if the actuators spring is 1 bar, then you wont be able to get the wastegate to open lower than 1 bar. boost creep is caused from an overflow, that is above the capacity of the wastegate. porting allows more air to flow through the wastegate freely. correct? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zeldoz Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 the HKS actuator I had was stiff, so I guess had a 1 bar or more spring in it. a manual boost controller wont let you adjust LOWER than what your actuator is set to only MORE... if the actuators spring is 1 bar, then you wont be able to get the wastegate to open lower than 1 bar. boost creep is caused from an overflow, that is above the capacity of the wastegate. porting allows more air to flow through the wastegate freely. correct? Didn't you have a fault actautor? I remember reading in the past about it. I am basically going to setup the actuator, and use the boost controller to tweak it. It's a cheaper way than mapping etc. But your are correct. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Do away with the boost controllers you don't need one to run a healthy 1 bar you should focus on fueling and flow first if you want power Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zeldoz Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Do away with the boost controllers you don't need one to run a healthy 1 bar you should focus on fueling and flow first if you want power The controller is going with a SSARD fuel pressure regulator etc.. You would need to control your boost otherwise your just pop the engine.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kingcarr Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 im not actually using the FCD or boost controller at the moment. I have a stock actuator on at the moment, and im only using the EBC as a digital boost gauge theoretically (the solenoid bypassed and the stock actuator plumbed in with hi lo bypass mod) but due to the decat and front mounted air filter, im getting boost creep, and then hitting fuel cut. I don't want mega power, I want stable and healthy power, but I cant be dealing with spending money on making it stock, so im getting a blitz ECU and aftermarket exhaust mani to increase the fuelling, and get rid of the restrictions on the 2nd and 3rd runners which will kill the engine faster! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 You will get a more accurate reading off the gauge ahh right so to stop hitting fuel cut you just need the ecu in, make some money off the ebc to use else where I would change the fuel pump just to be safe though if you havn't done so... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Snow Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 looks butchered since I sold it a few months ago, hope the exhaust has survived though it was a custom one wheels unfortunately where my fault, popped two tyres and bought those cheaper than it was going to cost to replace the others, what halfords and eBay mods have been wacked on then? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kingcarr Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 ha ha fair enough! the air filter looks a bit sketchy, the vac lines were all a mess, with some kind of black device that just said "Boost" on it, no electrical cables and no adjustment? just a nipple for vac to go in? ummm... there was a loop of vac hoses that did nothing at all, from the BOV back to the BOV?!? lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Snow Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 the bov that's onisn't what it had so not a clue there lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kingcarr Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 Bit of an update... Things are starting to equalise and stabilise! Got a blitz access and a SARD RRFPR fitted along with a jperformance exhaust manifold. No more misfire after lowering the fuel pressure to 2.6 bar (ota) after my mate calculating roughly what it should be... Need to get a front mount and a check up on the rolling road and we will be happy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tatep82 Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 Good stuff bud glad it's going well Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kingcarr Posted November 19, 2013 Author Share Posted November 19, 2013 So as it stands I've got it running sweet at 0.9bar with standard TMIC, adjustable actuator, rrfpr, TMD fuel pump and a Blitz Access ECU. I still need a replacement Boost Pressure Sensor, and also a FMIC. After my FMIC, will it be safe to run a bar? What are the next steps in tuning up? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kingcarr Posted November 22, 2013 Author Share Posted November 22, 2013 FMIC installed yesterday and a dyno today... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tatep82 Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 You happy with the result mate? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kingcarr Posted November 23, 2013 Author Share Posted November 23, 2013 It's ok, lol was expecting more, but it feels ok! I've popped it up to a bar now, as I was pretty much there anyway, but it's started misfiring at around 5-5.5k again, so I'm gonna pull the plugs out and check the gaps in the morning. Need to get the boost pressure sensor sorted, hopefully run a bit smoother? I'm guessing it will affect the mapping someway or another, otherwise it wouldn't be there in the first place? Don't suppose you've got one? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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