revs drop to 600 when engine gets up to running temperature

[Ryan_EP82 GT]

Revs dropping when in neutral/clutch in right down to around 600rpm, has conked out a few times. Typical belt squeal the whole time due to having the lights on and drawing more power. Only has this problem when its warm enough or safe enough to drive ... Its strange, ive never encountered it, so it might be something silly like a sensor or something but has anyone got this before?

The rev holds fine and strong all just 2k until it starts to warm then gradually revs drop to 1100 as the engine warms up (is this like an auto choke?), until it reaches working temperature where it drops and pussies about between 6-800rpm very unconvincingly.

[Phil]

If say adjust the idle screw at the inlet but 2k is high for cold start and 600rpm low for warm idle.

Vacuum leak somewhere?

Phil

[Chops]

phhh, mine often drops to around 250 rpm when idling at lights or whatever. Seems content enough, doesn't stall or anything so i just let it lol.

[Ryan_EP82 GT]

No vac leaks Phil and it only idles at 2k when you start it...as the temperature needle rises toward operating. temp, the idle comes down and holds around 1100, where it used to idle and i take it the ICV valve is set to,

It just weird because it drives fine if the engines slightly warm, revs hold well, then as soon as the needle hits just under half it drops big time!

Even as far as yours Chops at 250 it wobbles about there sometimes, whats actually annoying me is the timing belt scream EVERYTIME this drop happens with the lights on!

Surely someone had tht before?

[raffa_mk]

I've been having idling issues, had vac pipes check and wiring , along with coolent temp sensor changed etc, did a compression check and it was low on cylinder 1, found out to be a crack ring on the piston.

Car use to drive ok , when warm idle would drop to 600rpm and sometimes stall and it happens when dipping clutch at times from changing from 3 to gear 2.

Going to go forge now as engine can't cope with power.

[Ryan_EP82 GT]

Car use to drive ok , when warm idle would drop to 600rpm and sometimes stall and it happens when dipping clutch at times from changing from 3 to gear 2.

Yeah happens to me too, going to take the idle control valve off and clean it before trying to adjust it.

i think the immobilisers playing up aswell now maybe, the starter isnt doing anything atal just making a flicking noise, and even with it in gear.

[Chops]

I've been having idling issues, had vac pipes check and wiring , along with coolent temp sensor changed etc, did a compression check and it was low on cylinder 1, found out to be a crack ring on the piston.

Car use to drive ok , when warm idle would drop to 600rpm and sometimes stall and it happens when dipping clutch at times from changing from 3 to gear 2.

Going to go forge now as engine can't cope with power.

what is considered low compression on these engines anyway? i got 170ish across 1,2 and 4, and 160ish across piston 3. that seemed ok for 100000 miles to me, and ive heard piston 3 got the short straw design wise, wich is why its low. do those figures sem ok you you lot?

[Ryan_EP82 GT]

Yeah that sounds a right healthy engine,providing there isn't a difference of 10% or 1bar/14.6psi between any cylinders. Yours seems good ther

[zurgieSR]

No vac leaks Phil and it only idles at 2k when you start it...as the temperature needle rises toward operating. temp, the idle comes down and holds around 1100, where it used to idle and i take it the ICV valve is set to,

It just weird because it drives fine if the engines slightly warm, revs hold well, then as soon as the needle hits just under half it drops big time!

Even as far as yours Chops at 250 it wobbles about there sometimes, whats actually annoying me is the timing belt scream EVERYTIME this drop happens with the lights on!

Surely someone had tht before?

You have major problems if your timing belt is squealing. Im hoping you have it confused with your power steering belt or alternator belt. Both can be tightened and should take no longer than 15 to 30mins. Would try cleaning out that valve, my old sr done that and brought the eml on it was that bad though i think the valve on a GT is different. It was gunked up really badly but worked fine after a good blast of wd40.

[Ryan_EP82 GT]

I just fitted a brand new power steering belt, and although we tightened it pretty tight theres still a ticking noise somewhere in the belts revolution.

as for the timing belt it only squeals when the lights are on etc, im gonna try take it into college today and tighten it abit, thanks zurgie

[Bluebear]

I just fitted a brand new power steering belt, and although we tightened it pretty tight theres still a ticking noise somewhere in the belts revolution.

as for the timing belt it only squeals when the lights are on etc, im gonna try take it into college today and tighten it abit, thanks zurgie

That'd be your alternator belt, not timing.

[zurgieSR]

That'd be your alternator belt, not timing.

I 2nd that. Your alternator belt runs from the crank pulley to the alternator just below and to the left of the dipstick. Its easily adjusted too, think its a 14mm on the bottom and a 12 on the top. just loosen the bottom one a few turns then the top one too. Try and pry the top of the alternator back towards the windscreen but be careful where you are prying. hold it there and tighten the 12mm at the top at the same time, then the bottom 14mm. Its squealing when you put your lights and other things on as your putting extra 'load' on the alternator. It has to work harder to keep it all charged. No probs

[Ryan_EP82 GT]

I 2nd that. Your alternator belt runs from the crank pulley to the alternator just below and to the left of the dipstick. Its easily adjusted too, think its a 14mm on the bottom and a 12 on the top. just loosen the bottom one a few turns then the top one too. Try and pry the top of the alternator back towards the windscreen but be careful where you are prying. hold it there and tighten the 12mm at the top at the same time, then the bottom 14mm. Its squealing when you put your lights and other things on as your putting extra 'load' on the alternator. It has to work harder to keep it all charged. No probs

Thanks for writing that up, I was gonna get someone to tighten it but ill have a go myself tomorrow. Cheers zurgie!