smithyithy Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 After getting used to the way the Glanza drives, and giving it some beans on various types of roads, I've concluded that it handles a bit shit. Now I do need some better tyres, but they'll have to come with my new wheels, which at ~£800, won't be too soon. Likewise, a set of MeisterR's will need a bit of saving for. In the mean time I'm sure I can try to cure the wallowy ride, body roll and dive under braking.. My question is.. how? I've looked at the front and rear ARB kits, panhard rods, strut braces / lower bars, anti-lift kits, where shall I start? Is there a general 'order' in which to start installing / upgrading these parts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
neilsmith Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 The rear oem 3 point strut brace makes a good difference! also poly bushes on your wishbones stiffen up the front end and steering. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Coilovers first I'd say then an rsr panhard rod, trd farb, 15/16" wheels toyo tr1's, look into a bucket seat keep your body firm all in my opinion of course lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smithyithy Posted December 30, 2013 Author Share Posted December 30, 2013 For the rear strut brace I was looking at the Zisco one, and then combining it with their C-pilar X-brace so the whole 'upper rear' of the car is sorted.. Definitely poly bushes though, but I'm really confused at to which kit, as there seems to be loads?! On Powerflex's website they list a 'front wishbone rear anti lift kit' ?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Simple things first, new track rod ends, new ball joints and i bet you'll notice a difference ;)Then move onto the more expensive stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 What Dan said. Couple of new ball joints and track rod ends will help if they haven't been done in the last 5 years. Tyres are a must.Then an anti lift kit. And I'd consider doing the front wishbone bushes whilst you're at it.From there if you plan on running coilovers that's what I would get next. However if you budget allows. I strongly recommend getting an LSD easily the biggest confidence boost I've had in my carImo the rear arb made no difference on my car as I already had coilovers and the 24mm whiteline one made it understeer more. I preferred it with the stock farb with poly mounts and drop links.I'd say if you were running shocks with lowering springs the arb's would be more noticeable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smithyithy Posted December 30, 2013 Author Share Posted December 30, 2013 Wicked, thanks guys. So Balljoints and Track Rods - are they easy to come by from car spares stores? Ie. Glanza specific or just basic Starlet fitment? I hate doing balljoints so I'll probably get a garage to do them and make sure the tracking is all good while they're at it.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Can get them off traders on here ;) The tracking will need done after the track rod ends yeah.This is where it becomes a pain with handling mods, after fitting handling mods, the tracking will need checked almost every time you fit something haha. Taking off lower arms etc disturbs the alignment. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 Simple things first, new track rod ends, new ball joints and i bet you'll notice a difference ;)Then move onto the more expensive stuff.This. Then RARB, ALK/wishbone polybushing at the same time, Rear brace. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TimD Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) Tyres, before anything else fit good tyres. Good tyres are not Yokohama Pradas either, I've never seen a sidewall flex like the ones that previous owner of my car fitted, dreadful. 595rsr are a good cheap road/track tyre, start there. Edited January 2, 2014 by TimD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Turk Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Rear arb, dont get a bigger front one ull get more understeer. Coilovers make huge difference and then just lsd in my opinion. And for the dive get an antilift kit. Heard they are a bitch to fit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smithyithy Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 Tyres, before anything else fit good tyres. Good tyres are not Yokohama Pradas either, I've never seen a sidewall flex like the ones that previous owner of my car fitted, dreadful. 595rsr are a good cheap road/track tyre, start there. For sure. I'm getting my wheels from Rimstyle, and surprisingly it actually works out cheaper to buy a wheel / tyre package from there than to buy the tyres separately from a tyre site. I'll be going for something like Michelin Pilot Sport, Continental Sport Contact or Pirelli P Zero. The car scared me recently, I wasn't even hard on the power, but the way the front lunged over on a big roundabout, it felt like the front wheels just cambered in and lost all grip... Question: If I get the wheels / tyres before coilovers, so I'm still running standard suspension for a month or 2, if I get the car tracked can they adjust camber and toe, ie. add some negative camber at the front? My old Polo only had cheap non-adjustable coilovers, but I was able to add some negative camber on the front manually and I did find it helped reduce understeer.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Scott Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 toe can be adjusted on all cars, you can adjust camber on standard suspension if you file the holes on the strut, ot get some camber bolts.rear toe and camber cant be adjusted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smithyithy Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 Ah, I may try to get a bit of negative camber added then, what are your thoughts on toe settings for fast road use? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flynn Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Tyres, before anything else fit good tyres. Good tyres are not Yokohama Pradas either, I've never seen a sidewall flex like the ones that previous owner of my car fitted, dreadful. 595rsr are a good cheap road/track tyre, start there.Spec 2's are a good tire...... No complaints from me? You're the first person I've ever heard knock them! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Spec 2's are shit IMOGet some Toyota camber bolts, I'll try to dig out the part numbers for you if I can find them dude. Helped a lot on my NA with feel/turn in when I had stock suspension and springs. Go for neutral toe and I run -1.3 camber daily, good tyre wear. I can highly recommend Uniroyal Rainsport 2s as an all year tyre, and people have had high praise for the Rainsport 3s which I'll be trying next! The ones you've mentioned are meant to be good though, but I don't know about wet grip? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smithyithy Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 Spec 2's are shit IMOGet some Toyota camber bolts, I'll try to dig out the part numbers for you if I can find them dude. Helped a lot on my NA with feel/turn in when I had stock suspension and springs. Go for neutral toe and I run -1.3 camber daily, good tyre wear. I can highly recommend Uniroyal Rainsport 2s as an all year tyre, and people have had high praise for the Rainsport 3s which I'll be trying next! The ones you've mentioned are meant to be good though, but I don't know about wet grip? Cheers mate that'd be useful Yeah I always hear good stuff about the Uniroyals, so I'll consider them too, the 3 others I'm looking at are all rated A or B for wet grip on the tyre sites.. I probably wouldn't notice a big difference between any of those as they're all supposed to be great tyres. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Yah price is the only difference! UR3s in 195/50/15 are sub £40 each which is ridiculously good value for money! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smithyithy Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 That is really good value for such a good tyre.. The ones I'm looking at in 195/45-16 are double that price Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Ah no way! I'm sure you already know but our cars are meant to handle better with 15s! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smithyithy Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 Ah no way! I'm sure you already know but our cars are meant to handle better with 15s! I know dude, but It's one of those judgement calls for the best looks, I mean the car will never be a show pony, but I just think that extra inch diameter looks so much better.. Plus, with 45 profiles, the rolling radius is very close to 15's with 50 profile, so it shouldn't throw it out a noticeable amount. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
andyllewellyn Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Yah price is the only difference! UR3s in 195/50/15 are sub £40 each which is ridiculously good value for money! Where have you seen that as looking to get some and best i can find is £61.81 from black circles Cheers Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Camskill Not sure if they're in stock at the moment but last time I checked, they were! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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