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So I tried doing a little researching before I started this and knew roughly what had to be done but was unsure about how to go about it. Being new to these cars I wasn't sure what needed doing.

So I've decided to take the time to contribute back to the forum and hopefully add some value.

Difficulty: EASY!

So if you've got a GT Turbo (Probably similar approach for Glanzas) then you'll notice that there isn't an oil pressure gauge. If you want to go about installing, oil pressure or temperature then you will need a way to tap into the circulating oil. The oil filter sandwich plate will allow you to do this.

First head over to IDWorkz and navigate to your car and buy the sandwich plate. Will be around the £30 mark.

You will need:

Decent socket set with -

- 12mm Socket

- 14mm Socket

- Dremel (Or other metal filing tool)

I was doing a million and one things when I did this modification so the engine bay is a little sparse. I've also never had an air condition unit but I'd imagine that will want removing.


I stripped out the radiators, intercooler pipe work, washer bottle. But you could get away with none of that it just makes it much easier to work with. I was doing other stuff to the car so that's why it's out.

You will need to undo the powersteering belts so to do this you will need to slacken off some of the 14mm bolts that hold it into place.


There is a bolt that allows the pulley to pivot through a slot. Slacken the 14mm nut off that this will allow you to adjust the height of the power steering pulley and remove the belt.

EEA0F9A2-EC10-42CE-A5F0-ECDA56ECC574_zps Where you can see this cable tie is where you will find the 14mm nut

Slacken the long 12mm bar seen in this photo to allow the removal of the belt. (Mine was seized rock solid. Some plusgas went a long way and then be sure to regrease it all back up for future use.)

To allow me to work on this continually I cable tied the pulley to the front bumper hangers.


So back to this photo. I used cable ties at the pulleys highest point to stop it getting in the way.

There are then two 12mm bolts that need undoing to free the bracket from the car.


This one can be reached from topside using a 12mm socket on an extension. It sits just above the oil filter and behind the pulley.


Here is a photo of the second 12mm bolt that needs undoing. This can be reached from underneath the car right next to the oil fiter housing.

Remove the current oil filter and catch the excess oil safely.


You should now be able to remove the bracket safely.

Because you may need several attempts at this it's worth bunging up the oil filter housing holes with a few bits of clean paper to stop crap getting into them whilst you take measurements.

With the bracket now free you will be able to machine it effectively without damaging the housing.

You don't need to go crazy on the bracket. It just wants a few mm shaved off to allow the sandwich plate to be fitted.


Using a dremel tool, carefully remove a few mm from the seen affected area. More will need to be shaved off the bottom as the bracket curves round. Try to flatten it off slightly and it should be good to go.

I had this part on and off the car at least a dozen times. Just shaving a few mm each time then putting it the two 12mm bolts back on hand tight. Then using the sandwich plate examine how much more needs coming off, and where. Use a feeler gauge if you're having poor visibility.

This is a rough guide as to what will want shaving.


Even for me it was a bit of trial and error. On and off and then a bit of paper or a feeler gauge to see where it was still touching.

Eventually you should have shaved enough off that it all fits nice and snug, and more importantly, flush.


For where the sandwich plate is circular, you should be able to spin it freely without it rubbing.


Remember before you install it to smear oil (as you would with any filter) to the oil filter housing side face of the sandwich plate. And then go ahead and install the filter and put it all back together. Remember to torque it back up. (And if any of you have that setting please tell me so I can add it :D)


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On 12/13/2014 at 10:04 PM, fiddlersport said:

nice tutorial, also can we run the preassure sensor for the after market oil preasure gauge oil temp gauge ?


Yes you can screw in both oil pressure ant oil temp. It is all about putting the sandwich in the right position that allows sensors not to bother the belt but at the same time you want the support less retouched as possible. I personally didn’t touch ot. I used the dremel on the plate instead. Problem is it started leaking oil. I have to verify if it is caused by the “thin” aluminum ledt close to the ribber gaskey. 

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