wax stat and icv removal, whats all needed to be removed?

[rwdrev]

ever since i rebuilt the 5e and had it in its had a very high idle.

after some research today i seen about how to check if the wax stat is stuck, checked and adjusted idle..... HEY PRESTO!!!!

now, how do i go about junking and blocking up all the pipe work?

i read about the 2part chemical metal in the throttle body hole, but what about the pipe work?

any pics to go along with a description would be appreciated

Thanks

[mikey4410]

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/72053-mikey4410-1998-starlet-sportif-turbo-rear-cambered-terror/page-4

wouldnt remove idle control valve though. no need.

[rwdrev]

cheers mikey

[5e colin]

if wanted you can leave al the pipe work and fill up the hole feeding the wax valve and job done

if removing the iacv then tap a thread in there for a bolt

[Ollieh17]

if wanted you can leave al the pipe work and fill up the hole feeding the wax valve and job done

if removing the iacv then tap a thread in there for a bolt

What does it run like without the icv colin

[5e colin]

normal 1s up to temp amigo

only on cold start you need to hold the throttle a few mm for about a min. or she stalls after that runs perfect

[Ollieh17]

Sweet, doesn't soundworth replacing my knackered valve for another most likely knackered one

[5e colin]

there crap design on ours really im running almost 3 years like that now ( in july ) and have no isseus attal even does not affect emmision so why not :)

its just the same like driving with an uprated manifold they dont have idle neither

[mikey4410]

you havent had an idle control valve for 3 years ??

[5e colin]

in july i think :)

[5T4R7ET N/A]

I don't have the wax stat or idle control valve either, just running off the throttle body screw.

You have to hold throttle for around 10 seconds on a cold start then it's all good. AFR is rich on cold starts!