Tercel-R

There are holes in the pulley that are meant for a Toyota special service tool...you can righ something up as shown: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/208863-crankshaft-pulley-holding-tool.html

Maybe you need skinnier friends

Do you have an anti-lift kit and a larger front sway bar? The ALK will move the lower arms closer to the sway bar and knock on hard cornering.

Hoarder?

Are the two drop links vertical, or is one on an angle?

I wanted to try tightening the top nut on my Meister's, but the top adjuster knob didn't want to come off. It was kind of spring loaded and would snap back down if I tried pulling it off. Didn't want to pull with too much force though, maybe I was just being a wimp. Is there a trick to removing it? I don't think it's the same as the D2's

bump

Check that the dust shield isn't bent and touching the disk. Doesn't take much contact to make a racket

When I got my car tracked with meister's, I don't think they touched the lower bolts and just adjusted the camber on the top mounts. I only have -0.5° camber, but it feels kind of squirrely during cornering. After reading about scrub radius, I'm pretty sure that's the problem. One top mount has max negative camber, but the other side is only at the 1/2 negative camber mark. The tracking report said equal amounts of camber on both sides though. Something to keep in mind when getting the tracking done.

Just replace the whole shaft. If you're taking it to a shop to have the work done, by the time you pay for all the parts, new boots, labour, etc you'd probably be spending that much anyways.

Well that's a dirty 22mm Whiteline FARB if you can see it. Here's a picture of the car with the lowering springs. The 4pt bar would clip road kill. Any half-dead squirrels were fully dead after meeting the Ultra racing bar.

I don't have measurements, but it was quite low to the ground. I took it off because it was scraping horribly. My NA exhaust was also very close to it and would hit occasionally which would drive me nuts.

You probably want to do both sides....they both covered the same mileage, so the other side will probably fail soon.

Replacement parts for drums are also way cheaper...

Honestly, coilovers are your best bet. The limited suspension movement really stops the car from transferring the weight to the rear. A poly rear engine mount also helps.

Wallace is correct, yours are the wrong way around. Look at the camber adjustment slots...yours are closer to the front of the car and they are supposed to be closer to the firewall.

Do you have the top fill plug open? Its a sealed box, so when you push one shaft in, it might have enough pressure to pop the other side out?

The circlip on the end of the shaft might not have properly engaged, so when you tipped it over it might have just slide loose. Did you replace the axle shaft seals in the gearbox? If they're old and you swap shafts then they don't always seal up again.

They're not adjustable if you want to lower your car though...

They're meant for a heavier car...you'll probably be skipping over bumps instead of getting suspension movement. Could be dangerous in the wet.

All depends on the offset of the rims. If they are high offset like -40 you should be fine. If they are low offset like -20 then they will most likely rub

I've had both Ultra Racing and Whiteline. The your joint is in the middle of the bar which creates more flex, it is also thinner material. The Whiteline bar is noticeably stiffer. It's no secret that the paint is crap on Whiteline though. If it gets bad enough I will just repaint.

Looks like the turbo is remotely located above the gearbox...wonder if that makes the turbo more laggy

Yeah it sounds like a ground issue or a bad 12V constant

bump still looking