RobSR

14 hours ago, Djaniero said:

Makes more sense to be honest. Thanks 

Apologies for the noob question...but does that mean I will have 2 separate maps for high and low boost? Also will I need  one of the 3 bar map sensors on your site if I plan to go over 14psi of boost?

You can have it off one fuel map, but 2 different boost tables.

If you want to go over 14psi, yes you will need a 3 bar map sensor.

In all honesty just go with Idrees at ID Workz, I can get them in but don’t hold them in stock as we chose to only do a select number of forged builds a year. 

It’s pretty simple, but if not yes you can ask your tuner to do it.

As it’s a VE based ECU, technically you can just update the injector size in the calibration to the CC of the RX8 ones, however I would still wait to fit them until you’re at the dyno. 

You can download basemaps, last time I checked the firing order, engine cc and stock injector cc was wrong amongst other things so I wouldn’t assume it’s a complete good to go calibration. 

If its TD04 under fuel cut, you could drive to your tuner on stock ecu, then fit the ME there when on the dyno and do it all in one go. 

Yes for sure, but that still doesn’t signify it’s connected to the ecu. The ecu doesn’t control the dash control logic and led illumination.

If it’s ripped out, re install how I said above 

1 hour ago, myweestar5 said:

 And she fires! Got all lined up and new belt on, put some stuff back on to just check it runs and it starts first turn off the key! It seems to be idling a little rough and very smoky its almost like theres unbured fuel coming through too so will have to see about that but I am a very happy man for now! I couldn't have done it without all the support given to me by all of you on here. Thanks for all your support, tips and tricks! 

 

I'm now just stuck trying to properly tighten up my crank pulley bolt, I've tried locking the wheels with it in gear and brakes on but when I turn the crank pulley bolt it just keeps moving even though the wheels don't, so I'm not sure what to do here. I haven't reinstalled the engine mount yet and I think its maybe contributing to allowing extra unwanted movement but if I install it then I don't think I'll have space to fit on the torque wrench. Any ideas for this?

Take starter off and lock the flywheel.

If its smoking it could be because its been standing for so long, however check the basics like the water lines on the throttle body being on the right way. It'll smoke and run very badly if you have them the wrong way round.

6 minutes ago, H_D said:

Does the breather go back to the charcoal canister?

Yes it does 

Breather

The button is a switch input to the ECU so technically has nothing to do with the boost solenoid itself.

I use the button to switch boost tables on the Link ECU install's i do.

The ECU then outputs the PWM to the boost solenoid from a separate pin on the ECU. (CON-1 Pin 15.)

Ive not personally used an ME221 but as its sold as PnP you'd hope they have kept this functionality. But yes you'll need your original boost solenoid wiring for a PnP solution. If its been ripped out, +12v to one side of the solenoid from EFI circuit, other side to CON-1 Pin 15 on the ECU is how its done in stock form.

Welcome along! 

More middle but biased towards the passenger side 

That’s the EFI one, it then feeds what Toyota call ‘circuit opening relay’ which is for the fuel pump and is under the dash 

Ok take belt off and rotate crank to 0 deg mark on cover 

1 hour ago, myweestar5 said:

Ok so your saying that the crank and cam are way out of line, but when you say the cam pulley has 2 positions that I can see once it's off what are these actually for, is one indent for 4E engine timing and the other 5E engine timing?

What do you mean when you say "that's probably wrong too" ?

If my cams are in line with each other then is it not only the crank shaft that's out of line?

Ok, with the cams like this:

What is lining up with the indent on the head the other side? From you previous posts you have implied that the 4E indent isnt lined up? Which means its been done on the 5e mark.

Line the cams up like below, make sure the other side of cam sprocket is inline with the top indent and the 4e mark. 

Take the belt off

Rotate crank to 0 deg (its ok to turn it without the belt on as its a non interference engine)

Put belt back on

Check dizzy timing other end with marks in end of cam.

Just follow the guide, and you cant do it wrong.....

Yup thats way off.

Follow the guide on the link above. The cam pulley has 2 positions it can be located, you will see when you take it off. Thats probably wrong too if the marks at the back are lining up but the 4e hole is not on the top indent in the head

Looking good! 

If you have spark and fuel on each cylinder it can only be a couple of things.

- Timing, are you 360 out so you are firing on exhaust stroke not compression stroke? If you have fuel and spark but its on the exhaust phase it will not start. Again, this will not be obvious with a timing light as the crank rotates twice for one engine cycle. By the sounds of your first topic and it firing back through the intake its probably this.

Take the covers off, check the crank and oil pump timing marks for TDC, check the cam indent on the head timing mark, the cam mesh gear timing marks and the distributor timing marks at the end of the cam. 

On 3/28/2019 at 9:58 PM, Danza said:

Did you manage to get the Tacho to work in the end?

Its very simple to do, bypass the resistor which sits on the IG- circuit of the cluster. Set the duty to drive it in the Link and you can have key on swoop etc too.

Ive done it a couple of times and never had an issue.

Yup that’s all good 

Check voltage at fuel pump, im working on a GT atm which has a voltage drop across the whole EFI circuit. Check grounds etc too.

Spring pressure depends on turbo setup and engine spec etc? Hard to say without knowing more. 

2 hours ago, LeonL said:

Also why’s it so hard to find one in the uk? 

Its not load of places have them lol. But speak to Owen Developments. They usually have them on the shelf.

If it’s a 1.4mm gasket it’ll be ok. Lots of them used to be 2.0mm.

Yes

TMD engines were good, however back then they were built as fairly low compression engines as there was no ARP headbolts. Scat rods are one of the better ones to run as they use the bigger rod bolts.

See what the engine is doing on the dyno, no point pushing it north of 8 when you have no power there and putting unnecessary stress on it. 

What rods are you running and is it all dynamically balanced, inc clutch and pulley?

Last engine I did with Scat rods, all the rotating assembly balanced, stiffer valve springs etc was to 8500rpm.

All the pressures and temps were fine as oil pumps can start to become an issue if you push really hard.

If you’re on a stock cam and TD04 however you won’t need to rev it past 8k anyway. Won’t still making power.