RobSR

10 hours ago, Lkizzy17 said:

Hi guys 

im going to be purchasing a link storm x Ecu just wondered if there is anyone that can install it for me. Thanks 

6 hours ago, JxckGlanza said:

Rob fisher at Racecal, @RobSR 

 

Dont think anyones as good as this guy  

Thanks Jack! 
 

Lkizzy, feel free to drop me a message or email me on rob@racecal.co.uk if you’d like to discuss options. 

We’ve done most of the current high powered Starlets running on Link. 

If you’ve gone standalone, use that to control the boost not the GFB, it’ll be considerably better and safer.

Without filling up Josh’s thread much more..(Sorry Josh) was it a chap called Chris Bover Ireland? He was Manchester..

Cool, I’ll wait to see them. Who was the previous owner? 

22 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

Oh sorry there I thought it was yours I've been digging threw loads of builds recently, the stock water pump is a really poor design. I've seen block pressure test were 4x pressure sensors sensors are drilled and fitted to the block 4x corners and in the 2x sides of the head cam belt end and thermostats end and the engine was put threw its paces the sensors were 30psi (2bar) sensors attached to led lights on the dash. The results were shocking with pressure dropping off after around 4krpm with the water pump end the worst. I run a closed back impeller pumper this helps but cylinder 1 still runs the hottest due to flow affecting pressure were the pump delivers water to the block. There are other things that can be done also. The main issue is high speed for long periods cooking the engine internals. There's lots of high Hp melted Pistons on here. Lots and lots. Look at taggeys 5e build. Is just 1 example  

 

Can you share where the results to this test are and who did it? 
I’d be interested to compare this to the data I’ve got off the dyno. 
I don’t think taggy’s problem was the water pump..plus he wasn’t high power all things considered 

I honestly cant remember, i dont believe it did from memory, you just had a bit of a 'hump' in the boot carpet

Yes mine had a full size spare

2 hours ago, Patches said:

I wouldn't bother with the 4EFE, just enjoy the engine you have currently and save up for a standard 4EFTE setup.

Dropping that in with standard ECU, Turbo etc will be far better power for the money than trying to tune an NA engine.

If you do go for the 4EFE then you won't need an adjustable fuel pressure reg or to swap the injectors. Not sure why Sam is encouraging that. Putting in an adjustable FPR and injectors with the standard ECU will most likely cause all sorts of issues with fueling. If you add some more of engine management then there is still no need for a FPR or other injectors as these aren't required for any performance gains.

You will probably have some issues with wiring looms etc as any engine swap is tricky so if you're going to do it then I would only do it once and do it right.

As Patches said, absolutely no reason to fit larger injectors than 4efte ones or an adjustable FPR on a 4efe-t or even 4efte for that matter if running a Ct9.

They run pig rich as standard with the original 295cc injector, going larger is not going to help at all. Reading plugs is not an accurate way of adjusting fuelling considering the tools you have available to yourself today.

The stock lambda is a narrowband, i.e the voltage output is minimal (1000mv) across the whole range, the swing from rich to lean has no resolution at all.

So if you want to setup your fuelling, you need to purchase a wideband.

If youre just running a Ct9 (or will be) use stock FPR, stock 295cc injector, stock ecu and you will be fine.

20 minutes ago, Timmah said:

Hey man, where did you get the plugs that connect to factory ECU wiring plugs? When I go the Link route, I'd like to do that so I can always go back to factory ECU if need be.

I can supply them as I did Josh’s harness. 
 

Drop me a PM or you can email me on sales@racecal.co.uk

Cheers 

9 hours ago, BurtEP82 said:

Appreciate the input Sam. Am a little concerned that if I do that then the port could open slightly under top boost. I haven’t read anyone else doing the same. 

You do run the risk of blowing the gate open if you just remove the vac line. Technically speaking, if you setup your wastegate correctly, you run a test with the vac line removed and you spec your spring so EMAP will blow the gate open just after the max boost you run, so in the event of a failure, you dont overshoot massively.

You have two options, replace the actuator with a solid bar thus holding the gate closed, or remove the actuator and weld the penny up.

Steering column being made, im adding in a steering angle sensor too. Will be used for driver and chassis development as well as in the traction control strategy

Looks tidy! 

1 hour ago, Sam44 said:

I do like the  build Information.

I wish do wish people would get more dyno evidence or the site had a setup and dyno graph topic. 

The torque is amazing from the 5efte it has a very good crank to rod ratio just becarful about the hp hit surge. These engines don't like to rev hard/sharp (hp hit) its to do with the crank to rod ratio. 

The 4e is better for hp but the 5e is a beast true torque. 

I'm going to try and get the same torque levels out of the 4e I've just got to tame the hp surge so the torque can be used put on the road. 

I guess you have not seen this? http://www.s314kba.co.uk/leaderboard/

Hasn’t been updated in ages however. 

Just FYI your EBC won’t be able to stop boost creep. If it’s running into fuel cut without an EBC, you’ll still have the same problem. They can only raise boost from base, they can’t lower it..

10 hours ago, BMX-RIG said:

Sounds good, i got the clocks in and kinda worked, the temp gauge shot up and a few other bits wernt right so i gave up and put it all back to how it was lol.

Hi mate,

The rev counters are driven off the negative side of the coil on the Glanza. On the back of your clocks you will see IG- marked. 
 

You should be able to trace them both, from memory on a UK/Euro n/a it’s on Plug A, Pin 6 (Black-grey colour) On Glanza it’s Plug A, Pin 9 it needs to go too. I’d imagine yours will be different, but the circuits are marked on the cluster so it shouldn’t be too hard to figure out.

Just now, morgey said:

These things take time, no point in rushing it. Will be worth it though!

That they do! Engine is nearly ready however, just finishing the head which has been a bit of a challenge with the valves/cams. 

19 minutes ago, morgey said:

That is some build, can't wait to see it out on track!

Good to see people pushing the boundaries of these things still. 

Thanks mate, getting there! 
 

Engine to finish, suspension, brakes, wiring loom next 😅 never ending, but it’ll be done! 

All the best with the open day!
 

You should post the builds on here, always good to see what people are doing 😊

ATL fuel cell box going in.

Just finishing steering column now and mounting steering angle sensor etc. More pics to follow!

It’s a homologation special for WRC hence it being 4wd. 

Thats the beauty when you’re Toyota, you can build a road for how you want the base of your WRC car. Something Ford etc no longer do. 

I think it looks awesome, looking forward to seeing it on test!

Best of luck with whatever setup you decide on. Look forward to seeing the results.

17 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Does any body use or know of any anti lag options. 

I came across this 

Turbo and intercooler bypass (D-valve)Edit

A method by which a large one-way check valve is inserted just prior to the throttle body, enabling air to bypass the turbo, intercooler, and piping during periods where there is negative air pressure at the throttle body inlet. This results in more air combusting, which means more air driving the turbine side of the turbo. As soon as positive pressure is reached in the intercooler hosing, the valve closes.

Sometimes referred to as the Dan Culkin valve.

When used in a MAF configuration, the D-valve should draw air through the MAF to maintain proper A/F ratios. This is not necessary in a speed-density configuration.

I was thinking about using a electronically control Air valve to close my dump valve as soon as turbo pressure is produced. 

Im also piping this control valve to the fse fuel reg so as to hold off fuel pressure raise untill boost starts like on the 3sgte system. I've also recently seen alot of fuel parameters on maps altered to run leaner at this point to promote turbo switch on. Which I think engine load and gearing is the dangerous gamble here. 

Using an ALS valve is the proper way of doing it, however it can be done with no additional hardware through ignition retard, ignition cuts and fuel cuts also for heat management. 
 

Just be careful if you use the true valve route as it can be quite aggressive on valve train, turbo, exhaust manifold etc. 

22 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Here's the ask. Just off the top of your head as I can see your a lad of knowledge.

1) I'm wanting a mitsubishi turbo or garret equivalent for a 4efe 1300cc high compression ratio engine to produce around 190 to 220hp before 5.5k rpm because I'm 40 years of age and don't want to look foolish redlining my car on public roads. 

  2) I'm also wanting best possible mpg threw experience this requires good engine power and gearing with boost to hit after cruz rpm so around 3.2k rpm

4) money is tight because I have kids so cheapest option here were I can get turbo kits at a premium price. 

5) last I need to be able to have a wide range of option on the turbo so as to finally tune it and avoid surges in power and be able to reduce egt. 

The na inlet cam suits my required rpm power helping kick off the the head gas speeds very low in the rev range. The head is ported for torque also (gas speed) and not peak hp. If I was to go on track I would use the turbo cam and 4efte inlet and throttle. 

 

If that’s the power goal you’re after, I think your best bet would actually just be a CT9 hybrid (you should be able to pick one up pretty cheap) or a Mhi/ihi TF035 which is also a cost effective turbo. Both those will produce the power you want in the rev range you want. 
 

Yes final drive / gear does help with economy, however a lot of the improvements can be made when mapping the engine. On ECU’s that can hold multiple maps I always add a ‘lean cruise’ one so customer can get a few extra mpg’S on the motorway. 

No as the 4efte ecu is expecting a 24 tooth pulse for crank, then the 4efte dizzy has another trigger wheel in which is the single cam pulse used for 720 sync. 

On 1/3/2020 at 2:29 PM, HedgeyGedgey said:

Do fiske do custom cams? If I decide to chuck some cams in, I'll speak with you guys in the summer I think. Still split decided atm lol

Yes we do, we only list a 272 ‘over shim’ online, however we offer various durations, with varying lift. We run a slightly different cam in our new development engine that you have to use a solid bucket/under shim with. 
 

Let us know and we can help spec something most suited to your setup