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RobSR

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Posts posted by RobSR

    K20 Turbo EP91

    in EP91 Progress Blogs

    Posted

    Back home ready for the full rebuild now all the fab work is done. Got the rad fill pot, boost control canister and all the bungs for EGT, EMAP, Lambda, Exhaust Back pressure etc in too. 

    - finish shafts 

    - build gearbox and fit Wavetrac 

    - refresh engine - do the chain, pump, seals etc

    - build wiring loom 

    - redo fuel system 

    - start it up 🤣

     

     

    C7368C6D-A7E6-4E0D-92DF-B4ACD09BEB0F.jpeg

    DBE02F30-08E6-4167-8C88-0949C03D950A.jpeg

    052F9497-F4BC-430A-A29B-655EE7EAD69E.jpeg

    Patches V - Link G4+ Standalone

    in EP91 Glanza Progress Blogs

    Posted

    41 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

    Getting the internals super polish finished has so many great benafits + my starlet box is really very quite after polishing. I'm very impressed with it. 

    After alot of research I'm using Volvo hgv gear oil. It's extremely durable. Does not seem to be affected by temps (great cold as well as hot), as well as extremely long long life. 100k oil changes. 

    transmission oil SAE80W-90, 97305

    part number: 85116240

     

    Who did you use for superfinishing?

     

    Nice updates on the ECU side too @Patches 👍

    turboing a 4efe

    in N/A E-Series Engine Discussions

    Posted

    6 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

    Were as Rob comes on and provides this kind of crap. In the above post. Which I'm really not interested in. 

     

    I’m all for constructive debates and conversations, but it seems you’ve got annoyed that I’ve just said it how it appears; as have some other members, but there we go.

    We can leave it at that and you can continue down your unique development path 

     

    turboing a 4efe

    in N/A E-Series Engine Discussions

    Posted

    11 hours ago, Sam44 said:

    Rob I really don't mind you waiting. 

    Why don't you tell us how alternators work. 

    I was hoping for something constructive when I saw your name. Maybe next time. 

     

    I’ve clarified in the alternator topic for those that weren’t following. 
     

    Im not actually waiting for your data FYI, I have my own, I can post the X/Y plot now for coolant pressure on a high comp 4E for everyone to see; if you had it, you’d have posted it all the months ago when you were using your own “scare tactics” to other owners. 
     

    The thing that frustrates me is, I do post constructive points, with evidence and data to back up my claims.

    Yourself however, do not; you post complete speculation that some unfortunate members will take as sound advice.

    I find it even more frustrating where you’re still relatively new to the forum, and start moaning that people are posting “scare tactics” and not sharing their results, which is what the majority of your posts are; do what you like with your build, the way you want to, just don’t be a hypocrite.

    better out put alternator.

    in Electronics

    Posted

    On 2/3/2021 at 9:05 PM, lukEp said:

    Benefits are less load on the battery while loaded up like headlights on full, heater blower on full, rear heated screen on especially this time of the year. Getting your battery upto full charge quicker good for people that use the car for short runs or not regular.

    It wouldn't over charge the battery the alternator has built in regulation and knows when its under load "supply's to demand". Pulley size is usually the same on the Same model of alternator it just has higher output (thicker winding on the stator and rotor plus bigger diodes in the rectifier)

    Usually the alternator gets upgraded when you add more electrical load like a huge sound system or running an inverter in a campervan, towing a caravan with a leisure battery or fridge thats on while the caravan is being towed to destination or the likes of a vehicle that run a refrigerated unit or electric heaters. 

    For clarification in regards to the overcharging point, not directly if everything is working yes, but I’ve had experience with over driven alternators’ regulation circuit failing, which then in turn would cause the overcharging issue. You may be fine, but it can also happen.

    turboing a 4efe

    in N/A E-Series Engine Discussions

    Posted

    10 hours ago, Sam44 said:

     

    i cant find much online, there is the normal forum guess work and scare tactics, but no hard evidence, and the lads doing this work simply go under ground. they do not post there results which is a real shame.     

    Isn’t this the case with so many of your findings we are still waiting to see? Still waiting on your coolant pressure data for one..

    ECUmaster DET 3 wiring for Starlet 4efe.

    in Electronics

    Posted

    19 minutes ago, Claymore said:

    Currently the NE and NE- aren't involved. Not tapped into and not intercepted. The Det 3 only has one ignition input and so you have to choose. I used the IGT signal as it seemed to fit with the diagrams relating to ignition module controlled by Toyota ECU found in the 4efe and the advice in this post: 

    I also checked other piggy back wiring instructions (EMU) and it always said intercept the IGT and PIM to modify (4efte), splice into the other wires for reference values!?!?

    The analogue inputs are for 0-5v sensors i.e MAP, iat, tps etc.

    I am modifying the Toyota MAP signal which will be the glanza 2 bar sensor for fuelling changes. 

    I am using the Toyota map signal as the load signal vs rpm also on the fuelling table.

    Current wiring = 

    pin1 : switched +12v (spliced to Toyota ECU switched wire)

    pin3 : spliced to 9 (currently depinned as won't run if connected to det 3 plug) pullup 

    pin6 : Modified IGT signal to ignition module (intercept)

    pin9 : IGT signal from Toyota ECU (intercept)

    pin13 : MAP sensor signal wire into det3 (intercept)

    pin17 : Modified MAP sensor signal wire to Toyota ECU (intercept)

    pin 11 : ground (splice to Toyota ECU ground)

    I do have other unterminated wires in place for other analogues, boost control and shift light etc. but these are not the concern currently.

    The wire options are: IGT (ignition timing to ignition module), IGF (Ignition feedback - not of any use), NE and NE-.

    The wiring diagrams for VR are:

    VR single.jpg

    VR balanced.jpg

    There is also optical / hall diagrams or SAW EDIS.

    Yes don’t use IGF this is just a pointless Toyota thing that’s not needed.

    Id disregard the IGT method and wire it as diagram 1 on the VR example, this makes more sense; you also won’t need the pull-up wire for this. 
     

    As said I don’t use them so it would be interesting to see how it’s been done on people who do, but thats the way I’d try it.

    You can try the IGT route, if it works without the pull-up leave it off, this will most likely just be to determine the switch logic of the TTL signal from the stock ECU I.e whether it needs to go 0-5v or 5v-0v to trigger the igniter 

    ECUmaster DET 3 wiring for Starlet 4efe.

    in Electronics

    Posted

    How have you wired the “crank” sensor in to the DET?

    I don’t use them but if you share how you’ve done it I can take a look for you.

    There should be no reason to use a pull-up on a starlet as the crank is VR, you usually wire this to the pins you talk about to modify the timing rather than the IGT wire from how it reads; but if you overview how you’ve done the crank side I’m sure we can work it out.

    better out put alternator.

    in Electronics

    Posted

    2 hours ago, snails ep91 said:

    what benefit would this have?

    Very few for most setups, the car doesn’t have anything particularly current hungry on it.

    Changing alternators isn’t as simple as you think due to different drive speeds from the crank pulley etc they were designed to be used with. 
     
    You could buy a new one and end up under it overdriving it as the 4E crank pulley will be a different size to what it was designed for; so it may be worse; or it may overcharge the battery which is not what you want either..

    turboing a 4efe

    in N/A E-Series Engine Discussions

    Posted

    It’s getting more and more frustrating seeing terrible advice and wild claims posted.

    For the love of god any owners reading this please run a vac referenced FPR on your boosted setups.

    P.S still waiting for examples of all these failures for every reason under the sun 🤔 There is going to be some real catastrophic  failures if some of this advice is followed 

    Silver SR restoracing project

    in EP91 Progress Blogs

    Posted

    51 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

    yeh. from what im told tunning developments are the people to see on these. people do rush into building and mapping. 

    theres just so many builds on here were after mapping the big end fails literally with in a month.  

    You’ve said this many times and I’ve never seen examples?

    TD map the majority anyway, the 8 or so I’ve done have never had an issue with a big end going after a dyno session. 

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