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Patches

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About Patches

  • Rank
    Boosting a Starlet
  • Birthday 01/01/1989

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    Male
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    Glasgow

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  1. Not sure about the value of these but you could probably work out OEM part numbers using the measurements on superpro's website. Seems to be 2 different sizes for EP91. In my experience the long brackets are for 98/99 and short brackets are 96/87 (I would double check this as going by memory here) https://www.superproeurope.com/products.cfm?vehicleid=3791
  2. What's a nock sensor? How do you talk to an engine? Do you have a picture of the guy who had your car before you? Does he look like this guy below?
  3. Item For Sale: Tuning Developments 430cc RX8 injectors (Denso) Item Condition & Description: Used in my car for 2 years and only done around 12000km in that time so plenty of life in them yet. Made 211hp (184hp at hubs) with these using a td04. Some of the seals are a bit cracked or split, mostly the middle seals which aren't that important so I will send some spare used seals I have lying around. Ideally these should be replaced with new. Price: £140 SOLD Pictures: Payment & Shipping Details: PayPal, UK mainland shipping and fees included in price
  4. That's really cool man! Nice build, looking forward to the updates.
  5. I wouldn't bother with the 4EFE, just enjoy the engine you have currently and save up for a standard 4EFTE setup. Dropping that in with standard ECU, Turbo etc will be far better power for the money than trying to tune an NA engine. If you do go for the 4EFE then you won't need an adjustable fuel pressure reg or to swap the injectors. Not sure why Sam is encouraging that. Putting in an adjustable FPR and injectors with the standard ECU will most likely cause all sorts of issues with fueling. If you add some more of engine management then there is still no need for a FPR or other injectors as these aren't required for any performance gains. You will probably have some issues with wiring looms etc as any engine swap is tricky so if you're going to do it then I would only do it once and do it right.
  6. Sometimes I find water gets in via my door rubbers if the car is parked on a high camber road. Door rubbers aren't sealing properly at the bottom so water ends up on the plastics at the bottom of the door when shut
  7. Welcome! you should fire up some pictures of the EP82's as well if you have any
  8. That's all cool with regards to the fuel pressure, plugs, injectors etc... I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure timing isn't affected by the length of the stroke on the crank. On both 4e and 5e engines the engine position sent to the ECU from the cam sensor in distributor (some 5e's also have a crank sensor but yours doesn't). The stock ignition map from both the 5e and 4e ECU's should be fine to run the car pottering about. What you need to check is that the timing has been set to 10 degrees using a timing light and bridging the relevant pins on the OBD port. Another thing to check is if the timing is correct between the cams and the crank when the timing belt was fitted if its a definitely a timing issue with the car. I'm not an expert by any means but I have mapped my own car and set the base timing etc and have a bit of experience with poor timing and fueling. When i first started up on the standalone ECU the map was really rich which would start ok, idle ok, rev okish but the minute you put any load on the engine it would misfire which sounds a bit like your issue since you are running rich Best of luck
  9. Just my 2p, that year will come round sooner than you think and you might be hard pushed to find another car to replace it. It's a great car and you've clearly put a lot of time and effort into it. I would hold on to it personally.
  10. Great build man, stick in there. The last 5% always takes 95% of the time getting the small details sorted out. Just out of interest you aren't using the Injector Dynamics yet? Another thing to check would be what fuel pressure you have with the engine running and vac line pulled off. Think it should be 2.3 bar or something for stock pressure. Running really rich will cause misfires, it can also foul your spark plugs so would be careful you don't end up damaging them. If you need to replace them then a lot of people (including myself) swear by the copper NKG's rather than the iridiums, you can pick up a set of 4 delivered for less than £10 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-NGK-Spark-Plug-BKR7E/352432780855
  11. Nice one! Welcome, you should upload some pictures or start a build thread. Got a few other users with EP70 projects on here as well
  12. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/starlet/EP91/61052/electric/8103/81510 I know this is an old thread but I use amayama.com for finding part numbers. You can see on that page above it says what year each part was used. You want 81510-10300 as these were produced from 12-1997 onwards (aka 98/99)
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