Patches

Well done finding all those syncros! I wanted to find a new set for mine but couldn't get all of them, think 3rd gear one was the one I couldn't get in the end

EP Wiring now offer parts for fitting DBW

What year of car do you have? I might have the wiring diagram for it.

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Adam from Link ECU has addressed this question on the HP Academy forum https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/efi-wiring-fundamentals/show/knock-sensor-shield-grounding I will continue to wire the way the ECU manufacturers documentation recommends

Nah man I definitely appreciate it. Always open to hearing other ideas and suggestions but equally if several ECU manufacturers are suggesting it as a solution it surely can't pose too many issues? I'll definitely watch that video when I get some time.

Well sort of, technically it has its own pin. All my sensor grounds (apart from the knock sensor and trigger grounds) are in the A connector Gnd Out and the ground and shield for the knock will go to Sheild/Gnd on the B connector. Either way it can't present too many issues as MaxxECU also recommend this method

That's interesting Rob, according to Link in their documentation that's exactly what I should do 😆 Haltech also recommend doing the same as I've just checked their documentation too

I made a mockup of my engine loom using rope Found this hidden gem in the oem harness, not sure what it was originally for but the wires could have been touching each other so I've cut them at staggered lengths, covered with heatshrink and taped it up so at least its safe now Here is the alternator, starter, windscreen wiper, reverse light switch and brake level sensor wiring fed into the AC blanking grommet, still need to terminate fan relay and a few other things on a dtm connector in the car Repaired washer wiring, new terminals, heat shrink and clean

Ha nice one dude!

Still working away on the wiring loom. I've completed repairing and tidying up the chassis so that's ready to go back in now. As a side note I have been trying to import a Alphard or Vellfire as a family car and found this site myauctionsheet.com where I was able to verify the auction sheets for cars already imported. Costs about £7 per search so I decided to have a look to see if I could find my original starlet I bought in 2012 from DCY Europe (the shady cunts they are) It was a grade R and using google translate it says all over it "cross member bend" etc. At the time I paid £5k

Hi Peter, I'm not that clued up with this sort of issue but wanted to mention 2 things in case you weren't aware already. The 4e-fte had 2 different oil pumps, one with a seal on the pump and the other with the seal on the block so you might want to double check you have the correct oil pump. The parts diagram on the left shows what looks like a 5e oil pump as it has a crank sensor on it which (I don't think) was present on the 4e engine. If you can get a video of the engine running with the timing cover off then that might help people see where the oil is coming from.

https://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/how-to-set-timing.41744/

While the gearbox was off I got the flywheel skimmed by the gearbox rebuilder, can't recommend Craig at D. Gilmour Engineering in Glasgow enough, he's been great for all the gearbox work and machining I've had done so far. I've got the gearbox back on which was also a nightmare as I really struggled to get my drivers side front wheel off as it had corroded onto the hub. Ended up loosening off the bolts a tiny bit and kicking it while under the car, once I got the wheel off it wasn't too bad. Took the loom off the car to give it a proper inspection as I knew there was some b

Removed my current gearbox and it was the clutch release bearing which was totally destroyed! Didn't get any photos of it. Taking the gearbox off was a total nightmare, would have been easier removing the whole engine and box then splitting but I sold my crane ages ago. The gearbox builder got some pictures of my diff which I had never seen before so it's a plate diff, think it's a TRD but no markings on it. At least I know I need the friction modifier LSD oil so got 2 litres of Millers Nanodrive CRX LS 75w90 NT+ In the meantime I've been remaking parts of my loom and

I haven't measured it in stock form no, at what point did I say I did? I've not tried to answer his question as I honestly don't know. I do have a Link 150 psi sensor on my fuel line and I have a wideband sensor, which is far superior than reading plugs, but my ECU is aftermarket and my fuel pump is the TD 340ltr/hr and the stock reg can't handle the pressure so any readings I have are absolutely pointless to share. If the pumps and regs you have apparently measured on this random fuel pressure data collection mission you went on with 3 cars you don't own... they are 20+ year old stock it

Point is, what you "measured" is irrelevant, there are many factors which could affect the readings (age of parts, accuracy of measuring tools, technique, aftermarket parts etc). People don't need made up random shite for answers, if you don't know what it should be then you don't have to answer.

All on the same car? With what pump?

It's pretty common, I don't actually know if a new one would solve the issue. They are pretty expensive from Toyota and they are shit 🤣 If the car runs ok I would perhaps ignore it. I've actually made an adapter which replaces this valve with another more modern idle valve and removes the wax stat from the throttle body as well. You would need an aftermarket ECU to control it.

Don't unplug any hose. You want to unplug the grey connector you can see here

This can sometimes be the idle control valve. Assuming you have a 4e-fte, unplug it while the engine is running and see if the ticking stops.

So it turns out you can store a gearbox in a garage for 9 years without oil or sealing the driveshafts and it will be fine 😃 no rust at all inside the box which I was a little worried about! Gearbox rebuilder has sent over some pics of an interesting bit of damage at the 5th gear synchro hub, its broke a wire semi circular clip at some point and the hub finger, these were stuck to the magnet. Because of this there is a little bit of damage to the gearbox casing which is a shame but all these parts are replaceable so I've to pop over and have a chat to see what it needs.

Small update My stored gearbox is at a local rebuilder to get stripped down and inspected and have the open diff removed to swap into the box that's currently on the car. I've ordered seal kits for the 2 gearboxes from Nengun (Toyota - Gasket Kit, Transaxle Overhaul (mtm) Part number 04331-12080 for anyone interested) as its £42 for 2 shipped from Japan instead of £38 each here in the UK. Once he has the box opened up and he's happy with the condition of gears and synchros etc I think I'm just going to have all new bearings fitted, I think the bearings are marked with the part number

Ah cheers for the reply! Yeah when the box is off and open I'll be replacing all the bearings anyway for piece of mind. I think the clutch release bearing looks quite rusty anyway having a look at the original image I got sent back in 2013. Thinking the plan is to get both gearboxes rebuilt with all new bearings and synchros (if necessary). That is of course if the sorted box is worth saving. I hope it is, will open it up and have a look over the next month or so.

I don't think there will be many people in a position to tell you which one is the best as I doubt many have tried them all. There are a few options on fensport, rhdjapan and perhaps id workz or tegiwa