Patches

A wee update, I did manage to find a repair manual for C56 for Celica. Hopefully the internals have the same tolerances. https://celicahobby.com/gallery/index.php/category/mxc56

Nice effort with the fuel tank, well done for taking the time and doing it properly!

I'm wondering does anyone know if this even exists? I've found a few C56 for the MR2/MRS on japanese auctions https://www.jauce.com/auction/p1021696191 Would this be the same as a glanza box? mainly wanting to know about the tolerances etc to give to my gearbox reconditioner

My noisy clutch release bearing is properly fucked now. Makes a massive screeching sound when I engage the clutch and it's not so happy about selecting gears! I'm just trying to figure out what to do here is some background to my issues: I got a LSD gearbox back in 2013 but have no idea if its a plate LSD was just told its a TRD one I also fitted a second hand TRD clutch at the same time (probably should have just fitted a new one) The garage I used didn't tell me to fit a new clutch release bearing, I've since learned this is best practice when fitting a clutch. It's been a bit noisy since fitting in 2013 but wasn't going to pay to have the box off again at the time. I asked opie oils which oil to use and they recommended Fuchs Titan Race Syn 5 which says on the Fuchs website its not suitable for synchromesh gearboxes haha! Not ideal. The gearbox has never been as smooth as the one I removed and it's occasionally crunched into 2nd or 3rd when driving the car hard. This could be an issue with the release bearing, clutch, syncros, the oil etc... A good few years of crunching when changing the gears has me worried about the condition of the gearbox now or how long it will last. I have my original gearbox stored in my parents garage... stupidly without any oil or anything plugging up the driveshaft holes. It's been sat there since 2013 so I'm going to need to open the box and see if it's been damaged with rust from moisture entering it. I think I'm going to remove the LSD gearbox on the car, open that up and inspect the LSD and generally see how it look inside. That way I will know what oil I need and if it's worth just repairing any damage. I'm then going to open my original box which has sat in the garage and if by magic its rust free I'm going to order the seal kit and all new bearings and have it reconditioned and the LSD fitted. If it's rusty then I'll probably have to scrap it which is a real shame. Then I'll fit a new Exedy Organic stage 1 clutch at the same time.

Nice one dude! Glad to see your still going ahead

Alright mate did you get the clutch and flywheel fitted? I'm considering getting the same for my car

Nice man, good to see someone going all out with the wheel speed sensors

Really nice build man! I'm just about to wire up one of my rear wheel speed sensors for traction control, let me know how you get on with it. Pretty cool you are going with the ECU Master Wheel Speed to CAN, are you just taking the signals from the ABS ECU or are you running new wires to the sensors? I can't even remember where the rear sensor wiring comes into the cabin.

Thanks, yeah my wax stat is on its way out. Cutting out once up to temp dropping the clutch at lights or needing the throttle opened on hot starts to keep it from stalling. I've set up idle ignition control in the Link ECU which has helped for now but got a prototype for the adapter coming in the next few weeks. I'm collecting a load of parts for the Fury, most of it is here but still waiting on some bits Bosch donut knock sensor - #0261231006 AMP Connector B and pins USCAR injector plugs so I can replace the denso > USCAR adapters Spec55 and Spec44 wire Heat shrink VEMS VR to HALL speed sensor divider - this is necessary for using the ABS sensors for speed as the Link G4+ Fury can't handle the high tooth count over a certain speed. LSU 4.9 connector to wire directly in, will be selling the Link CAN Lambda shortly Out comes the Atom, not 100% happy with the ignition and injector fused relays here, it works but could have been much tidier. I fitted the Fury into this gutted standard ECU and it took up the whole space so I've tucked these up next to the airbag for now. Got a speed sensor for the gearbox, it's a Brantz BR3. 4 pulses per revolution, hopefully it provides a decent speed input to compare against a rear undriven wheel. I stupidly removed my from ABS sensors and loom when fitting the Link as I removed the ABS for the car a long time ago. Should have kept it in hindsight. Swapping over to the Fury was really simple just load the same map from the Atom and change the temp inputs to have a 1k Ohm pull up resistor (this is hardwired on the Atom but configurable on Fury) and in my case move the CAN wires from connector A to B as the pinout is slightly different for connector A on both ECU's. I will remove the can wires once I get the wideband wired directly. After I fitted the Fury this happened... So I had wired it correctly years ago using a spare ignition output but perhaps that output on the Atom can't support the tacho, not sure, ah well got a working tacho now.

Overdue update. Car is still going strong, it sat off the road for about 14 months with lockdown, got it back on the road earlier this year and fixed a load of wee issues. Horn wasn't working so got a replacement airbag squib for £11 off eBay. Top tip the same part is fitted to 94-00 Rav4 so can be had quite cheap. Windscreen washers were blocked and couldn't unblock them so fitted Yaris washers with the fan spray pattern 85381-52300 Fitted rivnuts for the front bumper brackets for easier removal/fitting Fixed a coolant leak Fitted Bosch 550cc EV14 injectors Things to do: Service Replace turbo oil feed line which is leaking Replace broken door handle Wire up tacho Got a Radium DMR fuel pressure regulator coming so I will finally be able to tune the car with the modelled fuel equation Here is the car as its stands now I'll be pulling out the wiring loom to modify and add some new wires for fitting this...

I disagree with Sam's "advice". First of all it's not an mx5 part, it's a universal part with an mx5 tune on it. I wouldn't do anything to the turbo, driving like a granny with a really light throttle will stop the turbo from spooling up. I would use Racecal to map the car as they are down your way (Rob Fisher from this forum works there), if you speak to them they should be able to advise you on the best course of action. It might not cost a lot extra to have them fit before mapping and if you're not very confident with wiring then I wouldn't touch it. If however you want to learn a bit about tuning and wiring to get the EMB fitted and to drive it then I suggest you check out high performance academy who have loads of free information and free course on their website, youtube etc. The free content they have is amazing they even do some free courses which should teach you enough to get going. I don't have any experience with the EMB (I have tuned my car using Link G4+ Atom) but looking at this video you might be able to load a basemap onto it which might make the car driveable but it's hard to say as you will probably want to load the 4e-fe map and not the 4e-fte map to drive there and you definitely don't want to drive with any positive boost. At light throttle and RPM the worst damage you can probably do is foul your spark plugs, I would buy a spare set to take with you, buy the copper ones not the iridiums as they are like £10 a set and just as good. DO YOUR RESEARCH and perhaps get a wideband to confirm the fueling.

Who will be mapping the car? Are you wanting to fit it before hand to save some labour costs?

I'm not sure if you know about this but there is a site which archives the internet, you can still see your build there http://web.archive.org/web/20200425172457/http://austarletclub.com/index.php?/topic/19604-project-starlet-andrew/ Glad you've came to update this again, really interesting thread. I've got a TD04-13T but am looking to maybe go TF035 or hybrid of both for a better response.

Wee cost saving tip, you can keep the sump you have and put a fitting on it for oil return as you can see in this video, this full video series is pretty good at explaining what you need to convert na to turbo

Welcome dude! Yeah the 4e-fte was only ever sold in Japan so all imports here too. If you create a thread in the Wanted section someone might have one they could post to you. You may still be able to get this from Toyota as well, may parts for the 4e-fte can be bought in the UK at Toyota dealers. I use https://www.amayama.com/ to find part numbers, you can also order from this site but I have never done so. Sam he's from Denmark, they drive on the opposite side of the road from the UK...

Welcome to the forum Claymore!

I've never seen one of those before and having a quick google I can't seem to find any user manuals for it. I would be tempted to look at user manuals for other brand turbo timers to see if you can figure out from there but honestly without knowing what the wires are for I would just chuck it. I've got a turbo timer with my alarm and never use it, but I always cool down the last few minutes of driving anyway before shutting the engine off.

Lol pressure switch it the complete wrong terminology to use here. This solution would cost £££ but you would have much better control and safety with an aftermarket ECU. Totally cowboy method to tune. No thanks, I don't need to message you for "advice" You're not long on here and so quick to dish out "advice" to loads of people which is often useless, pointless, wrong or only backed up by this mystery man who had your car before you as if he wrote the starlet Bible. And by the way, fuel cut defenders are absolute junk and only fit for the bin.

You really don't have a clue what you're talking about, second set of injectors on a pressure switch. Where is this pressure switch then?

For pms you need a certain number of posts also. Just remember any advice you get off here should be backed up with some sort of evidence otherwise it's just an opinion. What SKINY says is spot on really, spending the bare minimum and proven path which many people have taken and have dyno results before and after. Don't bother with the other shite you've been suggested as it's mostly a complete waste of cash. Especially the fuel mods, utterly pointless. If you want to spend money and see actual results then you can always turbo your n/a. Done quite a few times, can't run too much boost of course but definitely will get the most gains

Not sure about the value of these but you could probably work out OEM part numbers using the measurements on superpro's website. Seems to be 2 different sizes for EP91. In my experience the long brackets are for 98/99 and short brackets are 96/87 (I would double check this as going by memory here) https://www.superproeurope.com/products.cfm?vehicleid=3791

SOLD

Price drop £100

Item For Sale: Tuning Developments 430cc RX8 injectors (Denso) Item Condition & Description: Used in my car for 2 years and only done around 12000km in that time so plenty of life in them yet. Made 211hp (184hp at hubs) with these using a td04. Some of the seals are a bit cracked or split, mostly the middle seals which aren't that important so I will send some spare used seals I have lying around. Ideally these should be replaced with new. Price: £140 SOLD Pictures: Payment & Shipping Details: PayPal, UK mainland shipping and fees included in price

That's really cool man! Nice build, looking forward to the updates.