Patches

So this happened https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjNqileYZLg

The codes are also on that post further down. So its saying a short in the coolant temp sensor and an issue with the knock sensor so check both of them and the wiring

You can find out fault codes with just bridging 2 pins with a piece of wire http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/diagnostic-tool.72012/#post-848457

Have you tried using the timing light on the coil wiring? I've heard that sometimes that gives off a good enough signal for a timing light to use. There are also spark plug extension leads so you can connect a lead between the coil and the spark plug

I found the starter wire, its this red wire on this plug

Yeah I would leave the loom in the engine bay and just unplug all the sensors etc from the engine. The hardest to access ones are on the back of the engine, knock sensor, starter and alternator

I got a bit chop happy with my loom when fitting a standalone ECU and have cut this red wire which is for the starter switch. Problem is I can't find where it connects to in the cabin loom. I've tried all of the wires on the blue connector next to the ECU but no luck Could be one of these wires on this plug maybe? Any help appreciated cheers!

Looks awesome! Enjoying watching this coming together

I wouldn't say that's a bargain to be honest, no one wants an automatic 5 door. Think most people would want glanza panels, a paint job and normal interior before they would consider it

Will do man, hopefully I'll be powering up the ecu for the first time in the next month or so. Will update this thread and message you when I do that

Swapped out the 43k ohm resistor in the tacho with a 1k ohm resistor so I can drive the tacho from the ECU signal. Hopefully did this correctly as the guides I tried to use had no images due to Photobucket changing their policy Old New Hopefully get to spend some more time on the car soon, not far away now

Progress is slow but it's getting there, putting in a hour here and there when i get the chance. The looms almost finished. Just need to replace some of the wires I accidentally chopped from the original loom then it's ready to tidy up. Fitted the wepr distributor cover and made a bracket for my ford coil pack. Found a scrap bit of steel and bent it and cut it to shape, wee bit of paint and it's looking alright actually, it might get replaced in the future but for now it's fine. With using the Ford coil pack I also needed a new ignitor/ignition module which had

Word of advice dude, glanza looms between 96-97 and 98-99 are quite different, I imagine gt turbos to have quite a few differences as well. I had to cut an bigger hole in my 96 wing when putting a 98 loom into it. To save hassle I would just get the right year looms

Small update. Not much happened this year with the car, just became a dad so that's taken up most of my free time. I have now managed to find an affordable space to work on the car near me which is awesome! Finished 95% of the wiring, just got to wire in low current circuits for the injector and ignition relays, run a new oil pressure switch wire to the dash and re connect a wire from the alternator i accidentally chopped and its ready to power up the ecu, set base ignition timing etc... I also replaced the connectors on my spark plugs to suit the ford coilpack

No worries, it just happened recently. OK so you have a couple of options, you could buy a weldable flange and weld it onto the intercooler piping. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alloy-Weld-On-Pipe-Adapter-Flange-To-Fit-HKS-Sqv-Ssqv-Blow-Off-Dump-Valve-/361258426571?hash=item541cae20cb:g:3ioAAOSwpDdVG-D7 make sure its the same type of metal as your piping. Dean at RW Developments or a decent local fabricator should be able to sort this out for you Or you could cut a section of the intercooler piping you have out and replace it with something like this, 4 clamps and some silicone hose http:/

Sorry dude I can't see that image, photobucket changed their settings so you can't share images without paying now

Put up a picture of what you have at the moment so I can get a better idea of what you need

If i was you I would just get the part from Toyota, that way you should get the right part. You'll pay a bit more for it but personally i find genuine engine parts are the best way to go

The standard outlet size is 25mm on the starlet and is connected by hose so you'll probably need a flange adaptor and maybe a reducer hose. Have a look at the pictures of the HKS fitted to other starlets to get an idea of what you might need

You should check out this video, it should explain a lot of questions you might have about dump valves. >https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_fG_b65WiU I wouldn't say there is a "best" dump valve, just pick one you like the sound of. Would probably avoid fake ones and baileys tho as they seem pretty unreliable

Sorry dude I was getting a bit confused, I thought you meant the standalone ECU which ECU Master sell (which is £600ish). Personally I would avoid a piggyback ECU all together but if you're on a budget then perhaps the DET3 isn't a bad idea

Its not far off the same price, and it's a lot less hassle. No need to make an adaptor harness/cutting plugs etc, or having to setup the ECU. Just plug in and take to someone to tune. Much more simple, depends what you're after really but for most people it should be all they need. PS i don't own either so can't really rate them personally

another good option is the ME221

have you checked the fuse box under the steering wheel? also hope you wired the gauges with the negative battery terminal disconnected