RobSR

Looking forward to seeing the results  

Larger at the front to aid traction with it staying fwd. The rear is then down to a 16 with a different sized tyre to keep the rolling radius front to back the same 

Yes that looks correct from memory as I don’t have one in front of me at the moment. 

You can remove the Tacho assembly and do it on the bench

You then join the ecu to the IG- pin on the cluster 

Bypass the resistor on the IG- circuit

12 hours ago, mycars12 said:

@RobSR thats a really sweet build. Loving that irs setup in the rear. What size wheels are those that he is running?

Is it a circuit build?

 

Yes for circuit/time attack use.

They are 17x9 on the front with a 16x8 on the back

Good to see you still cracking on 😊

The only other thing it’s worth checking is your coolant temp sensor. The ecu will use this to calculate fuel delivery for cold and hot starts etc. Cheap part to change. 
 

As long as your fpr holds atleast 2.3 bar when the pump primes and the engine is cranking it won’t be that causing problems.

Do coolant temp sensor next and see if that helps. 

What ECU and injectors etc is the car running?

Aeromotive FPR's don't have a check valve from memory so don't hold pressure when the engine is switched off like others do for 30 mins or so

Rear nearly done and air jack mounted!

You can check whether the sensor is working by measuring the voltage output from the sensor. Most will output 0.45v @ Lambda 1. Below Lambda 1 it’ll read >0.45 or above it’ll read <0.45. On idle warmed up it should be near 0.45.

If it’s not working, you won’t notice a massive difference, WOT is open loop anyway so it’ll only effect your idle and cruise fuelling. 

The 4efte ones are a very basic single wire sensor, the 4efe is a 4 wire, both however are narrowband. 

Nice work, glad to hear it’s going to be hitting the roads once again 😊

Welcome along! 

17 hours ago, Socks said:

Project thread!

Yea in time when I get round to it

14 hours ago, Cliften said:

Looks an interesting build! What’s the turbo spec and end goal? 

Some more for you 

All fine, no problems 

Sounds like what Nick has said unfortunately. Seen this a couple of times before. 

I always acid dip mine and throughly rinse it as you can never be sure you’ll get the sand out under the baffle. 

Was it mapped for the 430cc injectors?

You can fit the emanage and 0 it out so it isnt making any changes if its a used unit. Leave the stock injectors in and swap at the dyno

I don’t know what the stock ecu is set at when the sensor fails, usually it’ll fail hot so the ecu will inject fuel for safety. 

Check the wiring etc too. Could be a break in the loom etc.

😎😎

24 is air intake temp sensor signal fault. Intake temp  is very important in a speed density based engine so that will be causing you problems first of all.

Think i may have one but the wax stat part has been blanked off/removed

4 hours ago, H_D said:

always best to buy an ecu that your tuner recommends, Many people make this mistake

Yup agreed, not that many people stick to one tuner in the starlet world though, and its usually, get the ecu, then try and find a tuner...Not the best way as you say! 

I don’t do emanage unfortunately but you can try Devil Developments. Lee is a good tuner and has done them before I believe 

28 minutes ago, Boylo99 said:

il get the laptop plugged into it and get some accurate readings

 

yeah it does heat soak really badly its okay when your moving but if your stuck in traffic gets pretty hot

 

yeah im on COP with standalone link g4 so yeah il get a log going and get some data and then get it uploaded

 

Best option, im happy to take a look.

Id recommend moving the IAT to just infront of the throttle body to the intercooler pipe if it isnt already. 

This will reduce the heatsoak, and provide a more accurate reading.