RobSR

Could be a lot of things, worn pump, worn bearings, oil type etc.

How many miles are on the engine? May be worth refreshing now before it fails and causes a lot more damage. 

The thing is, without knowing the temp, we cant tell you if its high or not?

If you're using the stock IAT, its mounted in the intake manifold and gets affected by heatsoak badly. So if you did a run with tape, waited, then removed it, it may appear lower, but its because the sensor wouldn't have been as heat soaked.

It looks like you're running COP ignition in your picture so its going to be on a standalone ecu; can you post the log?

What intake temps? Where is the IAT mounted? What boost? What intercooler?

Lots of variables, let us know and we can advise. 

1 bar on idle is a tad low, ideally it’s 1.5 bar. 

Loose rule of thumb is then 10psi (0.6bar) gain per 1000 rpm.

7 hours ago, sebo_ep91 said:

Cheers mate but Simon decided to ignore my message twice already, not really nice. Hoping someone here may have one for sale

Where/when did you messaged him? 

Email, Facebook etc? 

Feel free to message me if you need help. 

695

1 hour ago, SKINY said:

Ok Rob, WTF 

Custom removable T45 rear subframe for the IRS setup we are doing 😊

On 9/5/2019 at 8:05 AM, monty1991 said:

ever find your fault? my car has started to do this 😕

Have you tried what I said above? It’s going to be one of those items as they’re the only things on the circuit 

Still going !

1 hour ago, Calum122 said:

Any chance of an OEM design?

Not at the moment no; the GB that Tristan is organising is for the Cruise design but in an '82 bonnet as that was the most requested. 

Seems to be working quite well at 5 deg, you wont be able to get that on stock setup though, we've had to do some tweaking. 

I’d recommend buying the rear first before the front. Makes a lot more difference.

Front one is down to personal taste imo. I’d personally leave the stock front one, fit the rear one and work on increasing front caster. 

Very nice! Torque GT supply good cars. Enjoy! 

Take advice from your engine builder reference the clearances he built it too, but I usually run a 5-50.

Reminds me of my first one! 

Look forward to seeing what you do with it 

I think the torque gain is marginal from the ones I’ve mapped. 

I’d personally go 4e, I prefer the shorter stroke and you can still make 450+ bhp.

Could be a blocked PCV. Usually remove them when going to a catch can setup. 

Best options is to get something made, get on track with a civic rad and you’re soon getting very very hot.

Just waiting on him to send me the link to the quickener he used. Was nice after youve got used to it.

23 hours ago, Lewis Aston Phipard-shears said:

Urm cost to  build everything to 300 mate 

- Forged Engine ~£3000

- Turbo kit inc. intercooler, exhaust etc.~ £1500 - £3000 depending what you go for

- Fuel System; injectors pump etc. ~ £500

- Clutch ~ £500

- ECU + mapping, anywhere from £800 - £2500

Youd then want things like a good diff, suspension, brakes etc etc.

Either way youre going to need somewhere in the region of £7000 to do it to an ok level.

12 minutes ago, TrisK said:

Just remeber, you do also need a ECU that can support a true variable TPS

Haha yes i was assuming the guy above that asked the question knew this but maybe not!  

Auto TPS wiring diagram is easily available online. Like said above stock one doesn’t use a 5v Ref so you need to splice into the ‘VCC’ pin. Easiest to do it near the map sensor 

Engine bay is looking awesome! 

Cost to forge the engine, or cost to build everything to 300?

Check Trisks post, he’s trynna bet names together so we do a GT ‘Cruise’ style bonnet. We will do it if we get the numbers 😊