riko666

You'll need a straw for the inevitable felching that shall ensue *shivers* Hehe, but srsly, you really don't want to know what it is...and you won't find it on google as Rick's abbreviated it

£25 an hour?!!

if I say Ratio, he can see where the mathematics comes in

there is when you have to work out the braking force of each and how to fit it into the Original brake force distrubution ratio

Google > you

could I interest you in some very cheap GReddy Type-RS Replicas? Only bought them as I needed something cheap, quick when I thought I was being ripped off of my Authentic GReddy Type-RS (I still think I am) - only looking for £35 delivered, could do if you're looking for something "in the meantime"? The HKS SSQV's are reknowned for being great units with regards to boost sealing, as they utilise a Pull-type mechanism, which means the boost pressure will actually push the valve closed, so it cannot physically leak through. But they do sound like a canary stuck in a blender - they sound horrible. I currently am running sans BOV - sounds kinda cool, but it's far too loud, and people keep looking at me which I don't like, if they're going to look at it me it best be cause of my striking good looks *coughs*. Opted for the GReddy RS as it's one of the few that come with a Recirculating Fitting

- sorry Mike for whoring your thread, but I'm loose

£400 fully comprehensive is cheap enough for me too

couldn't you hear me granny hehe

oldie

posting the thread twice won't make more people read it

you really don't want to know

forget the grooved/drilled discs nonsense (anyone who mentions my Grooved discs will be wet-willied...and not with my finger), if you people are seriously experiencing brake fade, all you'll need are perhaps are Levin sized caliper/disc. One thing alot of people neglect is that the braking force in a car is distributed between the front and rear wheels...and as such, their maximum braking efficiency is meant to be delivered with the stock ratio. When you suddenly increase the front end braking capability, you're pretty much left with the rear wheels doing next to fluff all, and as such, the braking balance is destroyed. As a result, you MAY feel the braking is much better, as to be fair, the clamping force will be greater, the pedal feel/modulation will be better...but you won't actually stop better. It's been proven many times. You have to uprate the rear to a degree, so starting with discs (which don't overheat as quick as Drums) at the rear, followed by uprated pads should help matters to a degree. But if you're stupid and get D2 Racing 8 Pots on the front of a car weighing 850kg ish...well...don't complain when you mysteriously endo into a crash. Oh, a big thing people fail to realise, as Mark has mentioned - big brakes dissipate heat better...true...but as a result, they need more heat to work properly, sometimes incredibly so. You'll all think "bah, I'll just brake more, then I'll be fine". No, that's not the point, they work at their optimum temperature, if your brakes are cold, they'll simply not work...and you're not all race drivers, or racing, you're not going to be keeping your brakes upto temperature all the time. Please don't get bigger brakes just for the sake of having bigger brakes, or cause people say they're better...they ARE ultimately better, but only if you use them the way they need to be used. Match the brakes to your car, not to what you think they will be like - they need to be matched to the car, and not to an individuals wants

I'm a leech of society....yes, I'm a student bum, "studying" Motorsport Technology/Engineering

eep - I therefore stand thoroughly corrected, and slightly pwnt

if it's made in Thailand, they're going to be fake...so they're technically not Goodyears...probably Goodmonths, indicating the amount of time they'll last before a catastrophic failure

Silkroad RM/A8's Thanks for the kind comments everyone, and thanks again Harrison, was great meeting your hawtself too, sorry you had to stay out in the drizzle for so long And fark was it cold, sat in the car rubbing myself for a bit to warm up...ooh err . As we discussed, shall let you know as soon as I get them on for a verdict, though as you've clearly shown me, pretty sure they'll be good! Cannot wait for the next trackday...last time I was on a trackday was 2 years ago with a bog standard car

if your pads ARE glazing, you've obviously got the wrong compound pads, you don't NEED the de-glazing properties of Grooved discs, if your pads are glazing and you're getting brake fade, buy some better pads/stop driving like a fool. Drilled disperse heat, get rid of gas bla bla...yes, but reduces the braking surface area. And drilled discs crack cause people just think "drill a hole and BANG, it's done", no chamferring of the hole, no stress relieving, nothing. Again, not needed. AP Racing, Brembo, Wilwood etc, they'll all quote that they're street drilled/grooved discs are for aesthetic reasons only

w00t! Picked up my Coilovers from Harrison yesterday, to say I'm over the frikkin' moon is an understatement...there finally seems to be a faint glimmer of hope in turning my bucket into a car! They do look rough, but Harrison's assured me (and showed me) it's just surface rust, the pistons are immaculately clean, the front camber plates haven't even ever been adjusted! I thoroughly recommend Harrison for anyone needing parts from Yahoo Auctions - did experience some of his tough love at first, but when the love came, omfg, teh secks. But srsly, thoroughly decent chap and in no way has he told me to say this (you owe me Harry ). Anyway, hoping to get these on within this week ....as well as replace the caliper, it's getting scary now

the reasoning behind the abortion that was your previous Glanza is all but clear now...don't let it happen to the new one

grooved discs will wear your pads quicker...that is it. People must understand it's a placebo effect - when adding more power, "Oh wait, FAIL! I need to upgrade my braking or I will get pwnt"...who's to say the stock braking system is crap? The pedal is muchy, offers some respectable feel, retardation isn't great, but overall, more than adequate for the car. Bigger Calipers, Bigger/Thicker discs etc...are only needed in a situation where you need to bleed off the excess heat and you need the extra pad pressure...and to be honest, if you're driving in a way where you meet that situation on a public road, you must get your licence revoked. That's not to say they're useless modifications to make, but people just seem think "ah, bigger calipers, bang, the job is done". No, Braided Lines, DOT 5.1 Brake Fluid, Uprated Pads and probably a Cusco BMCS are MORE than enough for 90% of people's needs. Don't get big brakes for the kudos, rather get what's suited to you....it's like Getting slicks for the road...people will say "cause they're grippier", yeah, but you're not on a racetrack...

grooved discs will only wear your pads faster...they serve no other benefit other than to "look" good

all people need is uprated pads, fluid, and braided lines...you will not need big brakes or any of the like.

Explain the avatar - you took your inspiration for your car from a Christmas Tree and the "Dungeons & Dragons" Board game? Don't ruin this car

unless you bought 50p Brake Pads, or are driving like a fool and flooring the brake pedal from fast...repeatedly....downhill....doubt you'll be getting brake fade. I haven't experienced brake fade on trackdays, so lord knows how people manage to on the road...