riko666

At least you had a choice - stupid Lesbianese guy in Saudi Arabia thought a "Degrade'" haircut style meant "Give me a Mullet"....bastard...

Down boy - you're too sexed up for a 14yr old, stop it

You mean the other way around chap? By increasing "Virtual Weight" (as Mark intriguingly calls it) at the rear, you will compress the rear suspension more, which would extend the front suspension slightly - it's really an Aerodynamic lift perse', but it's lift regardless! With the canards though the situation will be reduced - and as you rightfully said Geo, the suspension settings can be tailored to counter the effect to an extent

look like the Black Racing wheels I used to have? Or SSR Longchamps...very nice

kind of agree there, but I suppose the spoiler will help where the EP most needs it - high speed corners, where the very lightly loaded rear-end will prove skittish. He has canards at the front so that would restore some of the lift at the front end given by that gargantuan rear spoiler.

oh god he didn't buy that did he?? You can buy that and not my interior? :crybaby: Is the splash guard still there as Rob was supposed to sell it to me...

ohh my god!!, you've stalked me to here as well?!!? I'm scared ;) Hehe, hello tharrr x

I've got better things to moan about, like global warming and how the price of ice-cream at my favourite ice-cream parlour has gone up, preposterous. And I wasn't the only person to moan about you, I just moaned more than others...I get bored

indeeed, rich people, all of them

Says you Speed Racer

I have been in Dale's car when he had that engine in his car...to say it was "Mad" is an understatement, and I think he only had the K1 in at that point, or a K24, and he was having boost creep issues....but it was scary. My first and only ride (and viewing) of a Starlet GT

121mph GPS-Measured, illegally...in France, which I payed for but I didn't particularly care...cause it was France, and I was chasing others from the Le Mans convoy. Otherwise my Top Speed is self-limited to 70mph. When I had the 5efhe I didn't get much over 110mph at Goodwood or Silverstone Circuits, seeing as I have a C52, I should "theoretically" be able to reach 160mph (I think that's the gearing limit)...Bring on Bruntingthorpe

what would you say if I saw one of 15 F40 LM's in person, and have sat down in one of 272 (Belonged to a the ex-King's nephew or something) of 288 GTO's ever made when I did work experience at the official Ferrari dealer/garage in Saudi?

inspiring stuff, especially from a 16yr old! Shows what motivation can get you to

that is surreal

free alignments? Lucky bastid The Girder Rear Suspension prohibits the EP Chassis from ever having the sort of mid-corner adjustability and "Plantedness" of an EG6 Civic on a bumpy road, but you can get close enough

it's all upto what you personally need out of the car chap - don't feel obliged to chuck all the typical modifications on the car just cause it's what people say it's best - like Polyurethane Bushes - they'll help extract the final degree of accuracy out of the handling, but at the cost of ride comfort, do you want to sacrifice your comfort for a eschewing out a bit more out of your suspension? And so on...chucking every Brace, Bush and Bar won't instantly make the car a good handler - it'll help, but the alignment is especially needed, that will be the single most effective modification

Apart from Cruise Fiberglass Doors and Tailgate

sorry for the slightly abrupt way of putting it Geo, didn't mean that you knew nothing (it was more aimed at the legions of people that say what I mentioned above), but I felt you were missing a huge point with the front anti-roll bars, drunk or not true, i had a standard car, but it that barely means anything bar a lack of actual first hand experience, though with theory you'd know what to expect Joz, coffee? It was like 4am here when I wrote that!

*yawn* shuttup, they're off the top of my head - though the Cusco ones are right, and the other ones are slightly out (TRD 24mm, Whiteline 22mm or 24mm - Being the Heavy Duty) And they're little details that don't mean anything in isolation, the effect is what matters and is what I'm explaining. Diameter isn't the only way of increasing the stiffness of a roll bar.

I'm pretty sure there's a "Monster" 27mm Whiteline Heavy Dute ARB...their usual offering is what, 24mm? TRD is 22mm, and Cusco do 16mm or 18mm...so I'm pretty sure they offer the 27mm one, though why someone would want to get it is beside me

Geo, not to upstage you but it's balls - an uprated Front Anti-roll bar will make a difference - all people who say "Bigger front anti-roll bars just create more understeer and Rear Anti-Roll Bars give more oversteer" obviously know very little and just regurgitate what everyone always says on the forums. Take off the front Anti-roll bar and drive it, then try again with it on. It just cannot disregarded and stereotyped to such a degree - the balance is in the amount of roll stiffness at the front and rear of the car, and is as a common proverb, too much of something is never a good thing. By Increasing the roll-stiffness of the rear axle by an insubordinate amount (considering there is no Rear Anti-Roll Bar as standard), you are decreasing the amount of time needed for weight transfer to occur at the rear wheels when entering a corner, as the anti-roll bar will cause for the roll of the vehicle to be subdued quicker - hence settling the weight distribution of the rear wheels quicker. What this helps to achieve is in loading the rear wheels quicker, reaching the grip quota for the speed of the corner and hence allowing for the front wheels to "dig in" to the corner, or establish grip during turn-in better as the rear wheels have already settled their grip distribution. Too stiff a rear anti-roll bar though, and the weight is transferred to suddenly to the outer wheel, overloading it and leading to Oversteer situations, particuarly as during turn-in the rear if the car is severely unloaded. Likewise with a front anti-roll bar, an uprated front anti-roll bar in moderation will allow for weight transfer at the front wheels to occur quicker, allowing for the grip to settle between the front wheels quicker and reducing roll-induced understeer (as the roll of the vehicle transfers weight to a wheel after a delay as the momentum needs to build up via the rolling of the car) by helping to load the inside tyre in the corner. However, too thick a front Anti-roll bar (like the Whiteline 27mm ones - I think it's 27mm?) will transfer front end mass to the inside tyre when cornering, reducing the amount of mass on the outer tyre (which is what is required to rotate a car around a corner) and hence (as friction/grip is dependant on mass) causing the wheel to loose grip. In a reasonable rating though, as mentioned, it'll help for grip levels to stabilise quicker as you're reducing the roll momentum of the vehicle causing disruptions in front wheel mass distrubition when cornering. And Joz, not to be a downer, but those braces would hardly increase the stiffness of the car much...seam weld the chassis and have a weld-in roll cage that's tied in to the monocoque with gussets, then you'll have a stiff car. The braces out and about just help to reduce slop in the chassis, like how Polyurethane bushes reduce slop in the suspension. If you meant roll stiffness then yeah, you will have, chassis rigidity not much though. But in a sense, you've both mentioned that it would help to balance a rear anti-roll bar which is true to an extent - it is important to balance it out, but not cause the rear anti-roll bar automatically means oversteer, and hence neutralise it with an understeer-prone front anti-roll bar.

mods? But you can't drive for another 3 years yet

cheers me dears - will do, seeing as MSN doesn't work here...goddamn Terrorist Internet not letting me use Messenger for fear of having our location discovered...err...I mean, damn internet....

have you asked if they'll allow for some FPR tuning?