DavidAshton

1.30.033 that's me done for tonight...

WooHoo 1.30.432 Half a second to get Lewis is going to be tough!

OK getting better, 1.30.732 - XBOX 360 Normal pad, McLaren, Dry, NO driving aids. Im knocking Gaz of second before I go to bed lol...

What cars everyone using? Im stuck in the 1.32's at the min, granted ive not played it for a good 6 months. Going to have another half hour now and see if I can get into the 30's I cant seem to get the flow right into the second set of corners....hmmmm.....

On this tonight!

Ignore the plug n play is wank comments lol anyone with a mapped ct9 want a go against my plug and play ct9 let me know Is start looking at the plugs, they may be struggling to keep up with the more aggressive map.

I fixed it in end, Was the bolt on top of the strut that holds topmount on, couldnt get a bolt on tight with thr trd shocks so switched back to stock shock, gunned top strut bolt on tight and everything stiffened up and its been right since.

They wont last long, think its something to do with the voltage variance on a car that kills them. Id just get some nice Philips bulbs, they will last.

Lol I wish it was just loose wheel nuts! The caliper and disk moves with the wheel, i think its down to a bad angle and the becasue there in the centre they dont move as much. Also if you look at the reflection in the disk rather than the disk itself the movement becomes more apparent.

Story goes......I had trd shocks with cusco top mounts, the top mounts started knocking, swapped the shocks / top mounts for some oem shocks / top mounts. All was good, they were just wank and the car handled like a boat then one of the oem shocks burst. So last week I put the TRD shock with the OEM top monts, all using the same lowering springs. Now my general steering / suspension sound like its trying to escape from the car. It doesnt knock all the time only over certain bumps but it sounds really harsh like metal on metal less on the drivers side but really bad on the passengers side. So I have investigated and documented the following and hopefully someone can see what the funk is up. This is a video / explination of what the passenger side wheel does when I rock it with the car jacked up: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUTn7r8JeFc Here is a better vid so you can see the movement in the wheel, everything like shafts and tracking rod feel solid its just the wheel and strut tower that moves: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQCvcOI3lm4 Here are some pics of the condition of the passenger side suspension components: Drop link Track Rod End Lower ball joint Overview Same again but the drivers side: Drop Link Track Rod End Lower Ball Joint Overview Everything looks bent and fooked to me but there are no marks on anything to suggest its knocking so im stumped as to what it is and dont want to waste money replacing unnessacery parts. Anyone have a clear idea of whats going on?

Today I removed some soggy own shocks and re fitted my trd shocks. Now I have a crazy knocking noise from the drivetrain. I'm pretty sure its the green plastic things on the drive shaft, they are the green bits directly after the shaft comes out of the box, I don't know there technical name. they move freely from left to right and bang like fool against the box, I think the oem shocks must have moved the drive shaft or something. Question is how do I shut them up....can i tighten them or do I have to move the drive shaft further in or something? Please help its driving me mad.

That looks mega, is it an OEM colour?

Good call, looking forward to it, do we have a location yet? As north as possible yeah!

What are you using to control boost?

I do mine ever 10000 - 15000 km, im sure ive seen the proper Toyota service guide somewhere and it says every 10,000 miles for a V. Is there a sticker under the bonnet in Japanese that says 5000km, think that's what makes everyone think it means oil change required ever 5000 km.

Bang on, I think the problem is people never run a stock ct9 at high boost, they upgrade the turbo then wind the boost up. I did the same with my hybrid, went back to stock turbo and never looked back!

Is it the same on the road though? Last rolling road I did the boost graph was way off how it actually runs on the road. My CT9 is at full chat by 2500 rpm, thats why I love it.

Where did u do the rr?

Yeah decided to play it safe. New pads, disks and bearings on order from camskill. £155 all in, disks were more for abs model, all good though as i nipped the bearings tight to get it through the last MOT so will be good to have it all refreshed. Thinking about it I replaced the pads 3 years ago when I first got the car, left the disks so god knows how old they are, and ive not touched them since so its not too bad.

Whats wrong with May????? Was looking forward to having something to do over bank holiday weekend!

yeah it's fine.

I will attend this, keep it a starlet meet too!

Why not just take it back to the old times and have a 'UKSC' meet. There all good and proper these gigantic meets but you never get to see who anyone is off the forum because there are so many people there! I only talked to the people I know last time because I couldnt work out who's car was who's.

Rear pads are mullered to the end which as caused my rear disks to be very uneven. Outer 50% of the disk is higher than the inner 50% of the disk, ie it steps down. The outer part hasn't even been connecting with the pad and has gone rusty. If I bang new pads on to the rear disks will they take shape to the worn disks or will I be in a whole heap of shit and end up with no brakes.

That looks mega Steve, bet your well chuffed with it. When Matt get's his up and running we need to sort out a little local meet so I can come see this beast!