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FrozenJakalope

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Posts posted by FrozenJakalope

  1. Is it easy to adapt the miles/kilometres on the new tacho to the miles of the old tacho?

    There's a guide for it in the tutorials section - basically you swap the odometers over.

    http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/61838-changing-odometer-when-changing-clocks/#entry794209

    Re: OP, the CD or GLS dials would be easier, SR dials would be harder.

    I ended up going with a 52mm bolt on tacho. Dead easy to install, you can take the tacho feed straight off the green wire in the far right plug as you look at the dials.

  2. Someone else was having this issue and it turned out to be the way the bulbs are wired. It doesn't matter with a globe but with an LED it's impossible to get them the right way round without swapping the wires over before the plug.

  3. 1. The swap of the intake manifold between 2nd and 3rd Gen 4E-FE is just straight forward replacement - correct? (all the hoses, cables etc stay where they are? The existing bracket holding the inlet stays and fits ok?)

    Yes to all of the above except the small hose that goes to the MAP sensor will be slightly too short. Think it's a 4mm silicone hose you need, can be got on eBay for less than £2 posted.

    2. What is the inside diameter of that intake - will it fit my existing standard throttle body??? (is it 45mm?)

    Exactly the same as the standard N/A throttle body, same sensors and size.

    3. If I change the Mani only do I still get better airflow? Is it worth investing in 50mm throttle body and what car is it from? (do I have to port the mani then?)

    Yes, the shape of the mani and smaller chamber is where you get the gains. It would be a massive ball ache to change the TB as well because of the sensors. I think the 4AFE TB is the best bet if you really want a 50mm one, but then you would need to port the inlet to get gains and they'd be minimal. Not worth the effort imo.

    4. Do I have to change the ECU (after changing Mani only) or just overnight reset would do?

    Your ECU will be fine, you don't even really NEED to reset it, it'll adjust itself within its own tolerances over a couple of days driving either way.

    5. Would it work better If I got the 100bhp 4EFE jap ECU (Soleil but not Glanza S or jap EP82/85 only?) - is it plug and play and is it safe and does it benefit in any power gain in Irish 4EFE?!? Does it have to be mapped for Irish fuel?

    Pass. The 100ps 4EFE is the 1st gen which has a mani that's similar to the turbo one, 50mm TB and all. I don't know what the sensor layout or requirements for that ECU are.

    As for the mapping, you'd need an emanage or similar to do that either way as the OEM ECU can't be mapped directly. Should be fine though, mine is and I use pretty much exclusively 95 octane supermarket fuel.

    6. What is the most advantageous set up for this tubular inlet?

    No different to not having the mani. This one is literally just an improvement, anything else you'd do to improve the car in your eyes will still improve the car. Bigger exhaust for better throttle response and so on will give the same gains.

    7. After fitting this tubular inlet only - Is there anything I MUST do?

    Make absolutely damn sure you've got the vac lines and coolant lines on the right way round. We've all done it at some point since the hoses are identical, but if you put them on backwards you'll pump coolant straight into the cylinders and best case is you have to sit there for 10 minutes while the engine sharts it all out of the exhaust. Worst case is you hydrolock it and pop a rod.

  4. I bought an alarm/immobiliser kit. The immobiliser is a relay that can kill a single wire, I'm wondering where the best place to put it is. Current thinking is fuel pump, is this a good call? If so, what's the best way to access the wiring for it from under the dash?

  5. Yeah, it's a straight swap. You'll want to get a new throttle body gasket before you start. You don't really need a new inlet gasket because it's metal, but it doesn't hurt to get one.

    The throttle cable bracket is different, but if you take the one off the rolla manifold and Dremel a new slot into the rubber so the bracket sits further over to the left from the front of the engine it'll hold the tension right. There's a picture of what I mean in someone's progress blog in the N/A section but I can't remember who off the top of my head.

    If you run into any problems, feel free to shoot me a PM. I've had the inlet and TB off more times than I can remember in the last 6 months trying to track down a hidden problem.

  6. Hi guys,

    I want to fit an alarm as the cars going to be sat on my parents drive while I'm away at uni from September, so I'd like to fit a decent alarm. What do people recommend? I've had a look through search results but they all contradict each other, some say Clifford G5, others say Clifford is wank and stay clear. I want something with a PIN locked immobiliser ideall,y to make it pretty impossible for someone to lift it.

    Cheers,

    Josh

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