FrozenJakalope

Im going to Creamfields instead, proper music!

Funny, I went to Download this year for the same reason

I'm a bit slow, sorry. When it says 2.4,, what units does it mean?

281 in Database so far.

156 On Road/Owned

120 SORN/Scrapped

Hey all,

I've agreed to help a friend change the exhaust mani/cat on their 107. Looks like a pretty straightforward swap, all of 12 bolts in total. Does anyone on here have access to a workshop database for these though? What I'm after is the torque settings for the mani to block bolts. If it helps, the Shitroën C1 and Aygo use the same 3pot 998cc engine.

Cheers

Id-workz would be able to sort you out with all of those and probably get them to you by tomorrow. Shoot Idrees on here a PM

Agreed.. all along the a39 alantic highway is brilliant.. also on my door step lol

Whereabouts are you? Thought I was the only Cornishman on here

Could you tap a silicone pipe into the turbos output, one on each turbo? Thinking twin boost gauges

Atlantic Coast Highway from Newquay to Bude is pretty sweet. The A38 Bodmin to Liskeard as well, but you'll inevitably get stuck behind a truck going 32mph on that one.

Spot on, cheers mate

http://youtu.be/5tpShGQHUXU

Does anyone know this car? I'd love to read the build thread if there's one about. I know it's not a lot to go on, but fuck me that sound.

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/221627560098?nav=SEARCH

Any good?

Stunning

And she's got a nice car!

Bleedings easy mate. Get a short length of silicone hose (8mm, I think?), cut a small slit in one end and insert a small nail on the same end as the slit to make a crude valve. Connect the other end of the hose to the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder (small black thing held onto the gearbox by 2 bolts just behind the radiator). Put about an inch of clutch/brake fluid into a jar and drop the valved end of the hose into it so the valve is completely submerged.

On the slave, there's a 10mm bolt, start undoing it 1/4 turn at a time, after each turn have someone in the car pump the clutch. When you start getting bubbles and/or shitty black fluid coming out of the valve into the jar, stop loosening and have them pump the clutch until the fluid comes out clear. You'll need to top up the clutch master cylinder during and after the bleed to make sure you're not inserting air into the top of the system so keep an eye on it throughout.

When the fluids flushed right through, have the person inside hold the clutch down as you re tighten the 10mm bolt. Final top up of the master and you're done.

Ps. Keep the hose and jar with the fluid in, you an use the exact same setup to do your brakes as well

Even so, worst case is the engines shit and you buy a new one for £400-500 and you've instantly added that straight onto the value.

I didn't even know starlets had a fuel warning light hahahaha

just fit turbo ecu and loom sensors etc it works perfect on na engines and will have 7500rpm limiter

Wouldn't you get valve float if you raise the limiter without uprating the springs?

Same thing happened to my mate, unmarked car pushed him up a hill at 70 just after leaving the dual carriageway straight past a radar gun. He got 3 points out of that. Fucking hate the popo in this country sometimes

Good job man, amazing the speed you've done this hope it bears up well for you on the drive home

Seized slave cylinder? Had the same happen to me and that's what it turned out to be.

Does it hunt at all? If so, I'd be looking for vac leaks. If not, I'd bet on the idle control solenoid being stuck, essentially leaving you on cold start idle levels.

Tell me about it. There's loads round here with Golfs that drive them like knobs and wouldn't know a socket from a hammer. Hate to think how many perfectly good cars end up in the scrappy because people just don't know or don't care to service them at all, let alone twice a year. I've only been at this for a year or so but the thought of actually scrapping a car because you couldn't be assed to spend £100/year on fluids and literally 2 hours every 6 months on checking it over and fixing small problems physically pains me.

Completely agree on the insurance as well, I'm so much more careful with the starlet than I ever have been with my other halfs 2013 Kia because I know for a fact that if there's damage I can't fix myself, the insurance is worthless.

That's why I like this forum so much, though. A bunch of people who actually give a shit about the state of their cars, gives me a bit of hope haha.

Lotta twats have killed a lotta starlets, sadly.

That sucks mate, the crankshaft oil deals are a common failing on 4Es so you would've been dealing with it sooner or later but obviously later would've been helpful!

If the sump leak isn't too bad, could you just leave it for a week and come back to it? Bit of a rest never hurt anyone

Misfire could simply be a sensor issue? You're on DIS ignition, right?

Yeah, it's a bolt on. The TPS and IACV are the sensors that don't match up.

When I had one on, I managed to combine an N/A TPS with the mounting plate from an FTE one and file the shaft down to be the right shape, but the IACV was a problem I couldn't get round, losing the idle up systems knocked a huge amount of fuel mileage off as the ecu thinks the engines cold all the time so overfuels constantly.

Also worth bearing in mind is it'll add a pretty hefty flat spot to your torque up to 3-3.5k. After that, it's fucking awesome though