FrozenJakalope

Ne'er mind, found a diagram with a bit of detective work. For future reference (my own as much as anyone else's), when the plug is facing you with the retaining clip on top, the wires go green/red, brown/white, yellow/red from left to right.

Hey all.

I need a picture of the plug and wire tails that go into the TPS on a UK spec if anyone wouldn't mind snapping one? I seem to have lost my plug somehow, need to know which colour wire goes where.

Cheers,

Josh

£400 for an SR? Bargain!

Ahh, I see. Cheers, that's helped a lot

How exactly is the engine speed controlled in a 4e? Not in the sense that, I press the throttle and the revs pick up, but more how do they pick up? Is it the TPS telling the ECU to increase fuelling, or is it airflow dependant? Or something else entirely?

What happens if you ignore it and just keep driving with the knackered synchro?

Fuck me, that's worrying Phil.

Slightly off topic but wahey! You're finally up and running!

I can't wait until this is done mate, the quality of the work you've put into it is absolutely top notch. Looking forward to some gopro on the bumper vids when you've got it mapped and on the road

Sorted, took the starter off and manually pushed it back with a prybar to reset the magnetic switch and its behaving itself again.

I might just buy a new starter and see if that helps. Least then I could rule out a fault in the motor itself.

I did this too a few months back, also didn't have that Earth. Maybe try running some speaker wire or some such from it and earthing to chassis whilst everything's out, whack the plugs back in and see if it works while everything's out? Never know with these cars what other people have done under the dash before you got there.

You definitely don't need the speedo connected though, tested mine with that out and it all worked.

Man thats bad luck!

Shit happens, eh? Not so angry about it now

Shit news man. I know how it feels when everything seems to go bad at once.

Yeah, I think anyone that goes deeper than servicing their car hits this point at some stage. Just gotta keep telling yourself it'll be worth it, right?

Evening

Start of the week I had the bright idea to change my gearbox from a C154 to a C52. Took a couple of days but it's all back together now and as far as I can tell the gearbox itself is working properly. My problem is with the starter, which seems to be permanently engaging the fly causing all kinds of horrible noises, not to mention smoke above 1.5k rpm. I didn't actually take the starter out of the car when I was changing the box, I just unbolted it and left it plugged in with the bigass ring connector held on by a 12mm bolt on the back of it. Is it fragile enough that that might have damaged it? And if not, any ideas what it could be?

Cheers,

Josh

Japfest, sort out my rusty wheelarch, start saving for the big uni move in September. Hopefully, if I can get enough together, get her up to either TD or racetech for some EMB mapping goodness.

Standard N/A C154 gearbox. Some synchro wear, still gets into and out of all gears fine with no crunches etc. Seen 130k miles. I'm guessing not much because I honestly can't see why anyone would want it.

Been a bad couple of days. I'd known for a couple of months that the brakes weren't right so went to bleed them last Sunday and found the rear N/S slave cylinder had given up the ghost, so ordered that, plus pads and wheel bearings from Iddy. Whilst changing the cylinder, the line that feeds brake fluid into it decided that 17 years is about all you get so now that needs changing. Quick phone call to the only Toyota dealer in this fine county and I'm going to pick that up tomorrow. Lovely 30-mile round trip in the other half's godawful 3-pot 998cc Picanto to get a tiny section of copper pipe

But anyway, ever the optimist I thought "I've got a week off work and college and a C52 gearbox in the middle of the floor" so had the old C154 off yesterday and put the '52 on with my brother's help. Took getting on for 10 hours total just to do that. Another 6 hours today saw speedo, selectors, slave cylinder, sensors and all the other assorted crap that's bolted onto the gearbox go back on. Started her up about an hour ago to hear KRKRKRKRKRKRKRK from the sandwich plate, which has obviously gotten bent a little so it's touching the fly. I'm boprdering on being in full rage mode that I got so close to being done and now I've gotta get back under her AGAIN for the 4th day running tomorrow, but instead I'm going to the pub with my brother to play pool and have some drinks.

I love my car, I really do. But right now, she can go and die in a fucking fire.

End rant.

for about 2 seconds would been cool if he was brought in too, get back at the guy who killed han

I thought it was a documentary based on a real live events ?!

They should leave it there tbh, be quite hard to do more films, unless they went back and done a couple Toykyo Drift sequels.

That's strange that one worked and now doesn't. You'd think an earthing or switching problem would affect all or none.

I had a Honda CG125 when I was 20, loved that bike. Cost a tenner to fill up once a month or so and great fun to ride. Sold it because I needed the money to do my car test, and never got round to renewing the CBT. There's definitely worse ways of getting round.

Did you try rotating them 180 and putting them back in? Hashtag LED problems.

73240-16220 is the one you're after

The green ones are the dial lights, quarter twist and they just pop out. The black ones are for the warning lights if you wanted to change those as well.

Your multimeter's lying to you ;)

A negative voltage reading basically means you've got the leads the wrong way round when measuring DC. So, the voltage is coming in through the black and out through the red.

On your original question, I'd check continuity with your MM diretly into the 3 pins on the TPS. At 0 throttle, you should have continuity from middle to top, from 25% to 75% you should get no continuity and from 75% up you should get middle->bottom. If there's any cross-talk between the pins I'd take the TPS off and crack it open and you should be able to see where the problem is easy enough.