Stu

Last bit of action before pulling it apart for a few upgrades - not long till the first race meet

Finished up a customers car so had a little bit of time to drag the car out and give it a clean.

Have got a list of things to get onto and a date set for the first event this year, time to get into it.

Does the check engine light come on when you turn the key on? If it does the ecu is still powering up so could be ok.

Coil negative is the same wire that runs to the tacho, so you can tap into it underneath the dash if you need to. Its doesnt however run to the ecu.

You really need to get a wideband on it to get a true indication of whats going on - looks like its only trimming 5-6% either way, not much really.

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/106810-sensors-on-water-housing/#entry1219562

I just had a look at the link you had in one of your earlier posts - that's a cold start injector and the 4e ecu doesn't run one so don't connect it. The reason the starter turns when you put 12v to that plug is that the old 2e used the cold start injector only when the starter is cranking and its wired into the STA circuit. So by powering that plug up its powering both that injector and the starter. There is a sensor on the thermstat housing that is supposed to only allow that injector to operate when the water is below a certain temp. Hopefully you don't have any of that wired up with the 4e ecu...

Since its over fueling use some standard BKR6e plugs - cheap and much more forgiving.

So is the ecu OBD1 data still saying lean? Not running a piggy back or anything on it? FCD?

So its definitely still running rich? Or driving fine but using stacks of fuel? What do the spark plugs look like? Tried another ecu?

Yep. I ended up chopping an ecu up to get mine

That thing looks mint mate currently a beginner welder ATM want to start making manifold etc in the future, have long have you. Been welding?

Thanks dude - have built a few now, have them jigged up so easy to replicate. Ive been welding for a quite a few years but it doesn't take too long to learn if your willing to put the effort in. Spending some time with a good welder and being shown the basics can make a big difference.

The power output is almost irrelevant and there isn't really a "safe zone", its the state of the engine, how its been setup and tuned that's key. I've seen engines with stock or even less hp let go due to a bad tune, bad setup or poor engine health.

If you are a careful and methodical tuner and you look after your engine then there is no reason why you can't run decent power reliably. The NZ record holding quarter mile of 11.75 was set 9 years ago using a 5e with stock 4e pistons and stock 5e rods. That engine is still unopened to this day albeit retired from drag racing and is a circuit car now. Saying ring lands will fail at a certain hp is not 100% true. Id be more inclined to look at the reason the ring lands have let go and you will find that in a lot of situations (granted not all) the tune or some other factor is at fault. Overly aggressive poorly planned ignition tables, or inconsistent afr's, or aggressive boost curves, or too high a rev limit, or even the type and config of the rev limit (fuel vs ignition cut and how it applies etc) etc all play their part. There will always be cases where there is no obvious reason why a piston has let go and the casting process can be a factor, but with a good tune there is no reason why you can't push some very reasonable hp numbers. I guess what i'm saying is listen to your engine as its being tuned and you will get a feel for what makes it happy. Keep it happy and it should stay reliable.

The above is spot on the money - its how the power is achieved, state of tune, engine health/maintenance etc. With a well considered tune and not just an "all out all the time" mentality then good power can be made. Keeping the rpm in check is a big part and being not too aggressive with boost and timing tables helps. There has been a few builds over here that are around 300kw at the wheels on standard engines (mostly fresh rebuilds). The issue is longevity. Street driven they will probably last ok, race stressing shortens the time they last.

They're not that hard to make if you have access to some tools and will put some effort in.

Ive made quite a few for guys over here

Sweet! Nice interior of the car. What did you use to make the intake and were did u place the wasserfluid tank?

Thanks!

I made the intake from some 2.5inch stainless tube and the washer bottle is bolted to the strut tower just behind the fuse box.

Standard triggering is fine to run COP, you just need to use either 2 ignition outputs (wasted spark) or 4 ignition outputs (sequential) - depends on what your ecu is capable of. The 2zzge or K20 coils both work well, Ive setup quite a few over the years. Have a search, I've posted a bit about the COP conversion before with part numbers.

Looking great! Makes me miss my old red EP71. Keep those updates coming

Thanks! The car originally had a 2e-elu in it which was EFI so it came with the standard EFI fuel tank and lines. All been upgraded now but the system is pretty much the same concept.

Its winter here so I havent done much on this lately - have driven it a couple of times but pretty much tied up working on customers car, some of which are very cool! Anyway, I should get back into it sometime soon to start the build for the new season.

Cool project! Makes me want to build another 5e EP71 (Ive build quite a few over the years).

Has the coolant temp sensor earth been wired to the load grounds rather than the sensor grounds by any chance? Its a common mistake people make when wiring them up. There are two seperate earth circuits, one for sensors/triggers and the other for load devices.

Also what was the fuel usage like on the road trip? Have you had a wideband on it to see what the afrs are like? Whats the base timing set at?

Standard fuel pressure reg?

Ive replied to your PM but yes they do read a bit out. Just rev till bust

Aeromotive and Turbosmart are both very good in my experience. Sard and Tomei are ok but there are too may copies out there now.

Try Fortune Auto - best Ive driven on other than custom Bilsteins

I have a fuel regulator and hi flow fuel rail. Are them injectors the same fitment or do you need to cut and solder in new plugs

The best way to identify what sort of aftermarket LSD you have is to take the shafts out and look through the diff.

If you see a 10mm bar across then its an open centre.

If its a larger bar across with only 1mm or so of clear space either side its a Helical/Torsen unit.

If its completely solid through the middle its likely to be a cusco RS.

If its completely open and about 14mm diameter its likely to be a TRD clutch type.