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Posts posted by Stu
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The collection grows!
Will probably sell the black grill without the badge (definitely keeping that) if anyone is interested.
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Thanks yeah pretty cool to see the day getting some attention.
Also got shown a short clip from the 2017 Nationals
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToOqbkFApyc
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It's easily my favourite event each year. So chilled and a magnificent lack of egos.
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Some very cool coverage from the Oldschool.co.nz 2016 Drag Day that Ryan and I attended last December. Few cameo shots of the 4agte (at the beginning and at 7.53) but just great to see the day recognised. Every year it gets better and better. Check it out!
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pt5wLpzjCJQ
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Looks amazing! Are they genuine equips? What size and offset? I couldnt find any 01's so have run with 03's for now.
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Its awesome. Ive had a swim in both but I believe your not allowed to swim in the Te Waikoropupu Springs any more. #renegadeswim
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Another couple of spots to check out while in the Nelson/Golden Bay region are Te Waikoropupu Springs and the Rewaka Resurgance. Crystal clear springs. The resurgance is a great spot for a swim but promise me you will just put your towel down and jump in. No dipping a toe to check the water temp. It refreshing!
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Where do I start!?!
Running out the door so can't write a big spiel but definitely head to the South Island - Fly into say Christchurch and hire a car, drive down to the Catelins then up to Queenstown/Wanaka area, travel over to the West Coast to Haast then head North via Punakaiki etc. Head thru Arthurs Pass and up to Kaikoura, then Blenheim, Nelson, Golden Bay, Takaka (stop at the Mussle Inn) and Farewell Spit (go for a surf with the seals at Wharariki Beach). If your into Mountain Biking go see Martin at the Quiet Revolution bike store in Takaka (in Golden Bay) and he can help organise some awesome rides.
Sorry gotta run but send me PM on facebook if you want, will see what else I can think of.
I was just in the Kaimanawa Ranges this weekend:
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I had one set of 20v leads that the terminal inside the boot into the head didn't even reach the spark plug. So it was arcing across the whole time. It took them 4 weeks to send me a new unit. I had to argue to get the replacement and there was no apology.
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Thanks dude!
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I've had Magnacore sets made a few times but their quality control is exceptionally poor so never again.
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Thanks mate. Yes I had considered that but I think I will steal my brothers spare struts as they are longer than mine and have 10kg springs. My rears are 8kg currently and it still squats a bit.
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Thanks mate! Yeah will hopefully get there without breaking anything. The setup by rights should have quite a bit more potential in it, its just if im up to the task haha.
More photos here: https://www.facebook.com/JonesBrothersProjects/
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Id wait till you get an aftermarket ecu on it, that way you can use the ecu software to control a decent 3 port solenoid
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Im sure I wrote a post on this but it seems to be missing...
Anyway, as Colin has said above it depends on what throttle body you are using ie stock or aftermarket. The stock throttle body has water lines running through a waxostat and dependent on the temperature of the water it allows air to bypass the throttle butterfly which raises idle when its cold. This slowly closes as the water heats up and then when hot your idle is set by the idle screw.
Most aftermarket throttle bodies don't have this system and instead idle is controlled electronically via an ecu. The factory starlet ecu doesnt really have this control though due to what ive said above although there is the aircon idle up solenoid and that you can use via a switch or small temperature controller to open or close based on temp - it wont be a smooth transition from cold high to warm low idle but rather a step as the solenoid closes when it reaches the desired temp.
If you have a half decent aftermarket ecu then you should be able to setup a PWM controlled idle control solenoid that bypasses air around the throttle butterfly just like the stock setup but controlled via the ecu. The three wire units are the best and can be used to very accurately control the idle. I use the bosch 3 wire units in a lot of my customers builds and they work very very well. The factory solenoids don't like PWM control and the coils burn out after a time so I wouldnt recommend using them for anything but open or closed use.
Another option although quite crude and touchy is to not use any idle speed solenoid and just set the hot idle at say 1000rpm and just rely on cold start enrichment to keep the engine going when its cold but that often results in a very low idle when its cold that slowly increases as the engine gets warmer and the enrichment ramps out.
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2017 4&Rotary Nationals are over and done with, managed to run a new PB of 12.1@115mph. Only changes were some new water lines to the turbo core and spending about 30mins on the road taking a little bit of fuel out of the tune as it was dipping into the 10's at full load. Back to mid 11's now so could do with just a bit more taking out. Very hot day and suffered a bit of head soak and the track wasnt as sticky as I had thought it would be, most of the 60ft times were 2.1-2.2 except the 12.1 run which was a 2.025. Super happy with the result though.
Will head back out on the 17th for a twilight meet when hopefully the cooler evening air temps will help crack that 11. Also will hopefully spend some more time on the tune and get some timing into it, still very conservative at about 17degrees peak. Also need to lift the rear suspension but ive run out of height adjustment so will need to get some different struts for the rear.
Here's a few photos since words are boring.
This was right at the end of the day when the track was open for grudge racing. Vs my brother Ryan in his stocker EP91
Got a bit keen on the dial in (theres always next time) but also sneakily stole the marshalls paint and "amended" my race number which was 004a originally...
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Update from the weekend and a new PB again from Meremere Dragway here in NZ. Basically the same tune as last time just with a bit of fuel taken out as it was running rich. Very hot day so suffering a bit from heat soak.
12.1@115mph. 2.025 60ft.
Hoosier 225/50/15.
EP71 4AGE @ 16.5psi. BP 98 octane pump gas.
We have a twilight event coming up on the 17th which will hopefully have cooler air temps and might get that 11. -
It depends on what you want to achieve and with what ecu. If your using a custom inlet with the stock ecu be a bit careful tune wise as the flow characteristics will be completely different. The stock idle up is water temperature controller via the waxostat under the throttle body. You would need to machine that setup off the manifold and then mount this remotely with air bypass and water lines etc. If your using an aftermarket ecu its easy as you can setup (ideally) a three wire idle speed control solenoid like the Bosch unit for example. They tune extremely well with a decent ecu. I use them all the time with Links. Just remotely mount the unit (or hang it under the inlet manifold on a bracket) with air lines to either side of the throttle butterfly. The Bosch ones are large enough to be used as an Antilag bypass too.
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The issue with modifying the stock boots is the diameter of the leads. The aftermarket leads material is generally 8mm to 10.5mm so squeezing that into the stock boot is a bit of a dick.
Cheers though!
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Hey guys,
Can anyone recommend a company that would sell the spark plug boots that fit into 4e and 5e heads? I have customers cars come thru that require custom leads and while its not hard to make the leads themselves, finding the boots into the heads can be a bit trickier.
Cheers
Stu
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2 or 3 dugadugaduga's on the old air impact wrench?
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I'm actually ex the signage industry so have the software and access to a vinyl cutter. Just much easier if someone else has already done it haha #lazyass
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Yeah I would like to! Need to take some photos and measurements to recreate it unless I can find someone making the decals already - anyone know if they are available?
Also working on the Turbo S bonnet with the scoop removed, trying to decide what colour to bomb it with
Coil on plug help
in Ignition & Fueling
Posted
Unless you have crank triggering already just leave the dizzy in place and use the triggering inside it (24tooth = NE pin, sync = G1 pin). Remove the rotor and making a blanking cap as you wont need them - cap it something like you can just make out in this photo