Stu

Haha

New bits

Cool!

Here's mine from 10/12/16 at Meremere Dragway here in NZ

12.4@113mph. 2.086 60ft. Hoosier

225/50/15. EP71 4AGE @ 16psi. BP 98 octane pump gas. Unprepared track.

Hope to better that or at least back it up at the end of this month.

It isn't much of a job or expensive to weld on some -10 bungs but the lines and fitting can add up a bit cost wise.

I do actually... there was one going recently running the CNC gear at Precision Engineering who are the guys making quad rotor cranks.

^this.

I run basically the same in my 4agte EP71 and havent had any heat issues even in the height of summer.

I made up an aluminium shroud so that the fan pulls air through the whole radiator core which seems to help. Ive got the ran control set at 88 degrees with a hysteresis of 2 degrees and it never runs more than 30sec even stuck idling in the pits at our local drag strip in 30 degree plus temps, or at the circuit.

One thing ive found that can make a big difference is directing as much air as possible thru the radiator by using shielding either side and even above/below. I remember reading an article on it years ago and after trying it myself it really does make quite a difference. A mate of mine has a AE86 and after making shrouds to fill as many gaps so the air can bypass the radiator it definitely help temp alot better at the track when drifting.

Like this:

Is this still a functioning table or done and dusted?

You can do a lot for gearbox preservation with the ecu too by setting up a timed delay in the ignition timing as you select another gear. So instead of having full timing and peak power between changes you can delay and ramp the ignition timing up on a delay curve to soften the blow. For example with a clutch switch and speed input with my ecu i'm able to enter the diff and gear ratios so the ecu can work out what gear I'm in at any given rpm and speed. Once that's sorted and via the clutch switch so the ecu knows when im changing gear I can setup a short timed delay in the ignition advance by ramping up after a gear change say from 5 degrees less that the ignition map at that specific rpm/load so the box isnt suddenly slammed with 100% power. Its only a part of a second if you want but it can soften the blow so to speak. Every little helps.

If i wasn't quitting my job I'd be inclined to try knock something up at work.

Quitting and moving to NZ!?

Haha that's a shame. I think it's the last round for the season. There is a round in early March but I think you will miss that one too!

Sounds good mate, it's a pity your not around for the 17th as that's a Night speed event so will be racing all going well.

Well the Nats are coming up fast...

And Ive done nothing as usual due to working on everyone elses car. Will hopefully get a day of tuning in at some stage. Still need to lift the rear suspension (if possible) and fit the side pipe.

Ive also scored a Turbo S midspoiler that I will paint up and fit, plus a Turbo S bonnet that has had the scoop removed so its just the raised section. Will likely slam some paint on the bonnet at home one day and see what it looks like on the car. If its any good will get it painted properly over winter.

The turbo itself seems to be made reasonably well and is performing ok so far for a mates car that I fitted it to (about a year ago). If your using a factory exhaust manifold then the SV CT9 will be fine, but with an aftermarket manifold and drop pipe (I fitted units that I made) and the subsequent increase in flow it become quickly apparent that the "enlarged" wastegate (about 1.5mm bigger) is actually still miles too small. I end up porting one out considerably and flowing the entry inside the housing to try and get on top of boost spike issues. With the wastegate wired 100% open (ie bypassing as much exhaust gas as possible) it would still build boost and hit factory cut. When contacted about it SV said that we should run an electronic boost controller (which of course would do nothing about allowing extra exhaust gas to get past the exhaust wheel). They then went onto say that the setup was "extreme" and that we should fit some sort of restriction into the downpipe... which is counter intuitive to fitting a hybrid turbo in the first place haha.

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/95446-thoughts-on-speedvision-hybrid-ct9/#entry1129319

There's a few guys over here in New Zealand with Turbo S and Si front sway bars for sale if you wanted a direct fit.

TPS is the throttle position sensor, its mounted on the back of the throttle body.

Just check everything is plugged in properly ie map sensor, water temp sensor on thermostat housing, injectors. You could actually try unplugging the TPS as seeing if it works any better but thats a temporary fix. I'd avoid anything but cruising around until you have it sorted.

If the fueling is all over the place the last thing you should do is wind the boost up.

Let us know how you get on re codes. If its flashing the check engine light on it could be a boost cut (especially at 1.2bar) but there is likely other codes stored.

Assuming your using a stock ecu here but if the check engine light flashes on there will likely be a code stored. Check what it is and let me know. Map sensor plumbed correctly? Whats the engine/turbo setup?

Thanks! Its slowly getting to where I want it. Few cosmetic things to happen when I have time.

Nice work dude!

The warning light should come on when the key is turned to ON and then go out once its started.

That radiator pipe setup looks good! You could make it out of stainless and just have a section of joiner each end?

Oh sorry didn't answer your question. The KP ran a best of 13.6 @ 102 which is pretty good for street tires (T1r's) and on an unprepped track. It's probably got a low 13 in it on a decent track.

It's my favorite event for the year even though the times are usually not that fast. So many weird and wonderful cars. Even a jet powered push bike!

Thanks mate, pretty happy with how it went! It is jacked quite a bit both front and rear but from memory I can't get much more out of the rear due to the strut tower extensions and how short my struts are. I had them custom made shorter than usual. I might steal the rear BC struts out of my brothers Turbo S as they are quite a bit taller.

It does squat a bit even with 4kg springs front and 8kg springs rear so will invest in a set of 10kg springs for the rear and see how it goes.