rorenapier

Idle.

Theres no mixture screw on these as theres no carb

How will the insurance work if your going to time runs? Its then classed as a race event rather than a track day...

Bring it out the front where there is alot mor room..

Make sure the through diameter will be big enough.

As above, cut the spigot off the rad, weld up the hole and re-position the spigot to where the radiator hose sits properly. Drill hole and weld back on.

Ive had mine like this for 3 plus years!!

I cant understand why people will bend the hose about to fit the rad, when it will sit closer to a heat scource!! Its there to cool, not get heated up.

Wrapping hoses isnt fixing the problem, its mearly masking it.

Do things properly or not at all

Move the bottom port of the radiator.

If your reffering to the main bush on the wishbone, then use a hack saw, put a cut in it and pop it out....

He does.

CMB Autos.

Drilling holes is easier than holding a naked flame up to the bush?? Haha.

Up to you at the end of the day.

Burn out the rubber, then using a hacksaw cut a slot in the metal ring left, and poke it out. Job done.

Try changing the wishbone, and the drum stick on the steering rack.

If none of them sort it i would start looking at the hub and the chassis.

Looking good Ryan!

Be good to see the beasty back out again.

Clutch will be fine

Ive run mine now for 4 1/2 years, with many track days, 1/4 mile runs and sprints under its belt.

I would advise to get the flywheel a light skim for the new clutch to bed in on, yes there a bugger when new for juddering on the down shift, welcome to the world of paddle clutches...

Keep the revs up on the down shift and you will be fine.

Boots dont split due to power...

They only usualy split due to being well past it (condition wise) being to hard or the CV letting go and taking out the boot at the same time.

Standard rubber ones are just fine.

Cut the legs down on the bracket from the stand, then use your gear box bolts.

Still have the boost control solenoid there? Sounds like that one.

After 120 i hope you walked away from him.....?

Thought this motor was rebuilt again??

Forged doesnt always mean reliable ;)

Yes it has the scope to push a wee bit further than normal, but certainly doesnt mean it will "garantee reliability"

No you wont have to get the allignment done again.

As long as the oil feed is on top as its gravity fed

Water lines, pin closest to the motor, to the top, and obviously the other pin to the bottom.

Yes i would.

If its not his fault for the welding job he or one of his employees did, then whos is it? Yours? I dont think so.

if you owned a company would u give a refund buddy, surly he will say its not his fault lol

Lol at the welding fail...

In my opinion you should be entitled to a full refund.

I wouldnt listen to this crap. a lower thermostat will not help in this situation.

The mounting and wind 'sucking' off the fan is correct. I think you must look at the thermostat if that's correct. Better you replace it for a 68 degree thermo from SARD or so.

That bolt is fucked.

Its been fucked when it was put back in by the looks of it...

Oh and your captive nut sounds fucked aswell...

Get on the blower to TMD.

They are not more sensitive at all. You do know they are standard ECU's with another board built in so they could be mapped?

The little jap folk dont touch the parameters of each individual sensor when they wrote these things.

As i said above, check the knock sensor, takes 2 mins to get to.

Before removing fuses and doing the wrong thing without checking your code 1st.....

Code 52 is relivent to the knock sensor.

Either it has been unplugged, or the sensor itself isnt working. Did the EML come on with the std ECU or did it only start happening once you installed the ZEP unit?