sx_turbo

is that actually a yashio rad? looks just like a glanza rad painted pink. looks really JDM though, seems you have quite a spec list

by the way fuel cut actually occurs when the ecu reads 4.15V due to variables in conditions etc etc it could fuel cut at any boost

no they will not. the 4efe bearings will fit and work fine in the 4efte. none of the 5e stuff fits on the 4efte. the turbo piston rings are completely different to the 4efe, and the 5efe. you can fit 4efte pistons and rings in a 5e engine though. i got my information from the toyota EPC. i also answered this same question in another thread you made yesterday.

yes that was my point. rob 300zx says that as far as he knows, he has no fuelling mods. so i said at the very very least he should get an rrfpr and an fcd. but if he wanted to do things properly then a mani, and some form of piggyback ecu will be best

agreed

yep and you be right. if you have the car tuned on stock mani then your engine will last a lot longer, if you dont have any fuelling mods, and run that sort of boost, then your engine will go bang in a mater of no time. and i agree that just an fcd and rrfpr is not the best way to tune. BUT it's safer than not having any fuelling mods at all. im not denying that ecksjay may and may not know his stuff, but telling me that 1bar on a stock mani will not break your piston/rings, is rubbish. as i have first hand experiance of this. im sorry if i come accross as an arse.

fuel cut is 0.85bar. my car currently hits fuel cut, and it hits fuel cut at 0.85. and so does everyone elses i know of. and the ct9 can produce more boost it can go to 2bar if you wanted it to. but why? you wont get any more power than running it at 1bar. not to mention it will only last about 2 mins. please dont be pedantic ecksjay. the maximum efficient boost is 1.1bar. any more than that and the ct9 just produces to much heat, and it's life span will be greatly reduced.

ok smart arse. i was running 1bar on stock mani and just an fcd for 1 week, and because of the heat build up, i cracked piston 3, and destroyed the rings. so yes a piston was blown. i wouldnt comment if i havnt had first hand experiance.

the best thing to do is buy a corrolla haynes manual, that has a 4efe engine. and all the torque settings and diagrams, and how to's are in there. i found this book a great help, when working on the engine the 4efte and 4efe engines are almost identical, the only things being different are the pistons and rings.

does it have an after market air filter? if so thats the hissing noise

the max safe boost is 0.85bar. in order to go any higher, you will need a new manifold, and some form of engine management, and a front mounted intercooler, or at the very least an rx7 intercooler, which replaces the stock tmic. the absoloute max boost you can run on a ct9 is 1.1bar. you will need to get the car setup on a rolling road, with new engine management.

i have never seen such poor advice than on this forum. the stock turbo will take a max of 1.1 bar. you do need to have the correct fuelling mods to do this though. i.e, a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, and a Fuel Cut Defender at the very very least, and get it setup on an rr. you will also need a new manifold, as the restriction in runner 3 on the stock manifold will kill the piston and rings in cylinder 3. meaning you will have to rebuild or replace your engine. which is costly. you may already have an fcd seeing as the ecu will hit fuel cut at 0.85bar, or if your really lucky an aftermarket ecu. first i would check all boost pipes and hoses, for splits and any form of leaks then i would do a compression test and make sure its not the engine. then providing all was a ok, i would replace the turbo.

ok, starlet rick is half right. the 4efe and 4efte big end bearings,and rods are the same. the piston rings and pistons are different. the 5efe gear is completely different. what you can do though is put 4efte pistons and piston rings on a 5efe rod. effectively making a 5efte what i have just said is what i wrote above.

the oil pump is located on the drivers side of the engine, the timing belt needs to be removed and replaced. the fanbelts need to come off, it can be done on your back but it wont be easy. you may aswell replace the crankshaft seal aswell while your there

definately not. none of the engines use the same piston rings. the turbo ones are stronger than the none turbo ones, as they have a higher heat to deal with. the same goes for the pistons. the rods are different, on the 5e series and the 4e series the big end bearings are are the same on the 4efe and 4efte. but there are 4 types. they should be marked numbers 1-4, but when i rebuilt my engine there was no mark that made any sense. i hope this helps.

he might not have the wrong wheels. do you have a panhard rod? as you lower the car the standard panhard rod goes out of alignment, and pushes the right hand wheel out when it goes over a bump, causing the wheel to hit the arch. if you get an adjustable panhard rod and get the car realligned professionally, they wheels should stop hitting the arch

down my way every tom, dick and harry know's what they are. the only people that dont know them is the school kids, and the old people. still i dont see many of them, unless down southend/bas/lakeside on a thursday night

no i havnt sorry dude

lol@ the comments there my wheels he wants swapping, sorry for the poor choice of pics lol