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ste91

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Posts posted by ste91

  1. If using OEM Toyota sensors you will need the corresponding throttle body as well as the sensor and plug, as the mechanism that goes into the sensor is slightly different.

    I can't remember off the top of my head what the wiring is, but the diagrams are easy enough to find online, I did basically the reverse of this (3 to 4 pin) to use the 4 pin as my ECU requires a variable TPS.

    I think this is the standard 3 pin:

    top/yellow: TPS signal
    middle/brown and white: ECU ground
    bottom/black and red: throttle closed
    No photo description available.

    Your 4 pin auto TPS has a 5v feed which is now redundant, so you just have to check diagrams and see which order these three go.
  2. Following this on insta, nice work, not seen one of those radiators on a Starlet before, is it a one off custom job or is it from another car?
    It's a shame hardly anyone posts on here anymore, used to love reading build threads like this and would post my own but it seems pointless when only a handful of people are going to see it anyway. The facebook groups are no where as good as what forums used to be!

  3. On 4/6/2020 at 7:18 AM, ste91 said:

    Can't believe I posted this in 2018 and still not got the TF035 fitted! A lot of delays on various bits and pieces and now delayed by the virus but got some nice parts ready to fit, ceramic coated WEPR kit, ME221 ECU plus some upgraded sensors, new fuel pump and pressure regulator along with 370cc injectors. Looking forward to getting it done just hope the old 4EFTE holds up afterwards lol..

    Update again, turbo still not fitted and car not running 😂 😂

    however the new engine (forged 5E) is almost ready and I've now got a billet TD04, only a standard 13T sized wheel but plenty big enough for what I want, going for a Link G4+ and Bosch 550cc injectors as well now

  4. Always wondered what these are like, as far as I'm aware there aren't any LSD's available for them, so it's just open front and rear with a viscous centre diff is that right?

    How does it drive compared to a normal EP91? Notice any extra weight? What are the gear ratios like?

  5. I've made my own, don't have any pics but I'll try to explain, I used original feet on universal rails, all bolted together no welding required just a bit of trial and error.

    Get yourself a set of standard rails and some universal rails like this
    image.png.c50df122605a6e4544bfb80eb0ea0b71.png

    Cut the feet off the standard rails as mentioned, you might need to re drill the mounting point on the new rail to allow for the front to back distance on the feet.
    You'll also find that the universal rails are too narrow, so simply cut the release bar and you'll be left with two separate pieces to bolt in. Once you've done that you'll need to bolt your seats to the side mounts and put them in place and start lining everything up to drill the mounts. Then it's just a case of bolting everything together but it's not as easy as it sounds in writing it took me quite a while to get it right.
    Also if you are using the original seat belts, you will need to remove the buckles from the original seat, cut them down and re drill and bolt in on the inside rear seat mount. Then undo the seat belt and thread it through the belt holes, hopefully that makes sense but it means the belt is snug around you rather than coming over the top of the seat.

    At first I tried to simply modify the standard rails to fit the side mounts but it made the seats far too high so I wouldn't recommend wasting your time on that.

  6. Just spoke to my mate yea that's it he sold it to a lad in Wales, that exhaust used to be on my Glanza lol
    It's a standard 4EFE but everything else is 4EFTE as far as I can remember, inlet manifold, wiring loom, ECU, injectors etc... a forged 4EFTE would drop straight in but I'd advise getting it on a rolling road and checking the air/fuel ratio just to be on the safe side.

  7. I wonder if there was another owner in between then as this is definitely my mate's car it was him who did the 4EFE-T conversion, but he had cut the middle out of the bumper, does it still have the massive angled exhaust?
    It does look a lot better with the new bumper though it looked hilarious before, literally cut the whole front out of it and stuck the intercooler in there 😂

  8. Has anyone successfully swapped a different gearbox from another Toyota into a Glanza? I'm thinking MR2/Celica/Corolla/Yaris rather than the wideley known G6/G6R.  I know there's been all sorts of discussion over the years of swapping various gear sets into C56 bell housing but what can actually be done?

    I had my Glanza gearbox rebuilt last year and it's still useless, takes forever to get into 2nd, crunches a lot, feels like someones pouring a bucket full of nuts and bolts between the cogs when changing gear. Absolutely awful and completely ruins the car and as I'm now spending out for a forged engine I want to do something about it, so need something that will handle up to 300bhp, and would be nice if I can use my existing LSD, can't remember if it's 6 or 8 bolt pattern, whichever a standard Glanza is. 

  9. On 6/23/2020 at 9:15 AM, JxckGlanza said:

    For anyone information, i went with bosch ev14 620cc from CP fuels. Was about £250 and even came with the offsets.  I replugged the factory harness 


    I'm looking at the same but 550cc, did they plug straight in or need adapters?
    And were they a direct fit to the fuel rail?

  10. 6 hours ago, RobSR said:

    If youre trying to hit late 2's/3's i think youll find the 370cc's too small. 440's are good just about for low 300's so i would atleast go up to them, however the denso 440cc doesnt have the nicest injector characteristics. 

    If you want to be sure id run a new Bosch or Injector Dynamics, you'll have plenty of cc headroom and have better control than the older Denso's. You can get the Bosch in a 550cc.

    Funnily enough I discovered the Bosch EV14 550's earlier and started looking at them, reasonably priced, especially when you consider a 2nd hand set of RX7 440s plus cleaning/testing will probably set you back £150 anyway, a little extra gets you a brand new set of Bosch injectors with a more modern design, it's a no brainer, the only thing is there are a LOT of these Bosch 550's being sold and I'm skeptical about fakes, can you recommend anywhere reliable that stocks them? Your site only has Injector Dynamics as far as I can see.

  11. 1 hour ago, Claymore said:

    Think the 370's would be out of duty for your purposes. Sucks about the injectors you've lost, I've got a set of 295cc fte injectors that I'm dreading sending off for cleaning in case they're stuck solid!

    I have a mate with a set of 295's that have been cleaned and tested for sale if they're any good to you?

  12. I had the same, checked a few online calculators and they all give out silly results. My next step would probably be a set of 430 (RX7?) injectors as you say, just wondered what I could get away with on the 370's to save the hassle of finding and testing another set. Had a lot of trouble with injectors in the past, waited forever for them to be tested, one set ended up being unusable, another set lost in the post etc...

  13. Can anyone advise on what sort of power figure 370cc injectors are suitable for, keeping the duty cycle relatively safe around 75% max? 
    Also running a Walbro 255 and Aeromotive FPR.

    I initially bought a set of 370's as my original aim was around 230-240bhp, running a TF035 on a 4E but now I'm stepping up to a 5E and TD04 and hoping to make mid to high 200's power wise, so not sure if these 370's are going to be good enough anymore although I've already had them cleaned and flow tested so it's a little bit annoying if I have to find and test another set.

  14. Not building the engine myself but will be fitting it and doing the rest of the work, haven't got a build thread I'd like to do one although I'm not sure if it's worth it when only a handful of people will ever read it, the forum is barely active at all compared to what it used to be back in the day.

    I've spent the last couple of years just sorting out the chassis and now it's time for more power I was only intending to run a TF035 on the original 4E but that's on it's last legs hence the new engine, I've been collecting a few nice parts, WEPR turbo kit which I've had ceramic coated, ME221 ECU, 370cc injectors, new fuel pump and Aeromotive FPR, Wilwood big brake kit etc.. and the car is now quite well set up running BC coilovers, anti lift kit, front end fully polybushed and all ball joints and linkages replaced, the way it drives is a night and day difference from when I first bought it. Just needs some more power now so I'm hoping for a nice usable 250-275ish bhp.

  15. After a bit of reading and looking at various dyno graphs I've decided to go for a  billet TD04, but with just a standard 13T sized wheel rather than a full hybrid.

    The rest of the setup will be forged 5E bottom end, standard 4EFTE head, WEPR turbo kit, ME221 ECU, and all the usual supporting mods. The only thing I can see potentially holding it back now is the injectors as I originally thought I was keeping the original 4E on a TF035 so got a set of 370cc injectors which I've had cleaned and tested so I'm probably just going to use those, not sure if they're enough for a TD04 at 1.3-1.4 bar though?

  16. ^ you're right, I'm not chasing power figures, I wanted a 5E for the extra cc for more torque and quicker turbo spool to make it more usable on the road. Seen it so many times over the years people build these 300-400bhp cars with fully stripped interiors etc... then realise that it's awful to drive, a couple of weeks later they're breaking/selling it!

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