ste91

Wire the amp as mentioned before then, just the rear channels, don't worry about bridging.

For the settings, set the "level" fairly low (google how to set gain), set the filter to HPF/100Hz, turn the "low boost" right down as a starting point and then play around with it until you get it how you want it to sound. You wont ever get any low bass from these speakers so consider a small sub that wont require a lot of power, you still have spare channels on your amp so it wouldn't be any effort to wire it up.

RCA output from head unit would go to the RCA in on the right. Speaker outputs on the right then go to the two speakers. The bridging thing is for if you've got one speaker in the back (or front), so you get both channels through the one speaker. Suppose you could hook up some kind of 7.1 surround if you wanted.

Why not use it for the fronts as well? Bit of extra work, to be sure, but the sound quality would be so much better.

That's what I already said, but that's where it gets confusing as this amp allows you to bridge one front speaker and one rear speaker whereas usually you'd bridge speakers for left/right not front/rear.

Amping the fronts would be good too depending on what they are, personally I would rip the lot out and start again as Starlets are an awful starting point for a good sound system. You'd be better off making some door pods so you could use 6.5" or at least 5.25" speakers instead of the 4" that sit under the dashboard and then either a small sub in the boot or an under-seat one, and not bother with those parcel shelf speakers.

I can't work out if you're supposed to wire it so that front becomes left and rear becomes right or vice versa, because it shows on there that you can bridge the front and bridge the rear but it doesn't show how to bridge left & right which is what you're aiming to do.

Don't wire the channels with any extra speaker wire other than the two wires you get for each speaker, it shows you on the amp where to put the positive and negative.

If you're powering rear speakers then the simplest option is to just use the RCA inputs and the speaker wire outputs on the "right hand side" of that amp as you are looking at it on the picture.

It looks like you can bridge this amp in a couple of different ways but to keep it simple that's your easiest option. (What are you doing with your front speakers?)

As for the settings, you've got "level" which is also known as "gain", you can google the proper way to set this.

I don't know what "direct" does so would probably leave it off for now.

Low boost will just boost low frequencies (bass) and is best left alone, especially if using normal mid range speakers.

The filter depends on what type of speakers you are running. Presuming you already have a sub to cover the bass, and you are just running a pair of standard speakers here, then set the filter to HPF and 100Hz or higher. This will block any frequency below 100Hz so will block your speakers from trying to play low frequencies which your sub should be taking care off (and vice versa if you are running a sub from this amp then set the filter to LPF 100Hz and block frequencies above 100Hz so the sub only plays bass like it is designed to do).

What's the rest of the system like? What are you doing with your front speakers, are they amped? Do you have a sub?

It may not be worth £300 anymore as there are alternatives out there now, but there's no reason to slag it off, it still stands as a good manifold that is highly unlikely to crack and it retains the OEM look.

Yes you can buy a WEPR one for a bit more but reverse the situation, lets say the JAM mani is worth £200-250 for example, compare it to those cheap shitty low grade stainless manifolds that people buy, I've seen them for around £100-150, so just say someone buys one of them, it cracks (which it is guaranteed to do), you then have to either repair or replace it which means you spend more money and time, so you may as well have just spent extra in the first place and bought a good manifold like this JAM one.

Just because it's not all shiny and new does not mean it's worthless and shit.

Since when did people's attitude change from wanting proper JDM parts to saying they're shit and no better than a standard ported mani and not worth anything?

still its the same shitty size on the collector !! whats the point in having wider runners if they get squashed just the same like the stock 1 ??? no benefit to be had your just paying for a stupid name JAM

a prted stock vs 1 of those will be same in performance

The collector size is fine, the turbos that will be used on these manifolds (CT9's and hybrids) are small anyway, the difference on these manifolds is the runners, it's clear just by looking at that picture above that a standard ported mani wont ever flow as well as a JAM one.

IMO people are only slagging this off so they can justify spending money on a shiny stainless steel one. This mani also lets you keep the OEM look which some people want.

No you wont lose ABS.

The solid disk setup isn't very good is it lol, overheats easily, I've got a complete vented 262mm setup for the fronts if you're interested, also got the 240mm rear disc setup as well, not sure if they're a straight swap for drums though you'll have to check.

I'd be tempted to drop a VVC in there lol, would surprise a few being a 45.

Bargain for £100, they are a lot of car for the money, and they've got a really good chassis under them (double wishbone front/fully independant rear).

I was going to suggest some ZS shocks and springs but I see you've already got some coilovers (which probably handle worse but you don't often see a lowered 45 lol). As you probably already know all the good bits from other MG/Rovers and also some Hondas will also fit i.e. 282mm brakes.

I've got a ZS TD, lovely to drive. What size K series is in this? They are supposed to be good engines when they work.

If anyone's looking for a high quality amp that will easily fit under a seat and is suitable for powering the front speakers then I've got one of these:

http://www.genesis-ice.com/uk-en/products/view.php?id=1

These amps are in a totally different league to any of the crap you'll find in halfords but you'll need some half decent speakers to make the most of it, Starlets aren't the best of cars when it comes to audio as the standard speaker size and location is awful. 4 inch speakers under the dashboard are rubbish.

Starlet owners are generally a good bunch and this is one of the friendliest car forums I've been on but there does seem to be a bit of a Toyota vs Honda thing going on which is quite annoying when it's just clueless people jumping on the band wagon and haven't ever driven a Honda or ones that race a standard B16 Civic with a TD04 Starlet and think they're shit.

I cant see the racism? Someone changed there fcebook name to mohamed and it offended you enough to come on here and make a thread about it? If that is what you think racism is your deluded!

Its pathetic really!

+1

playing the race card when it's not really needed just dumbs down the situations where it is

LiamD is the man to speak to for turbo rebuilds.

Hilarious description

I know exactly where you're coming from with this, it is an absolute nightmare and the owners don't seem to realise how bad it is. If you were to play loud music or rev your car up outside your house as often and as loud as these dogs bark it wouldn't be very long before the old bill were knocking your door, yet these four legged shit machines are "allowed" to bark day and night. What's even worse is when one dog barks and it sets off all the other local dogs as well!

Have been searching for 20 plus hours.

theres only a few that I have been happy considering because of there availability.

Gt1749 (variable nozzle turbo) which is incredibly popular and on 50% of new cars out there

k03 turbo from audi, citroen, peugeot which is a few mm smaller but again quite popular

K04 from audi which are quite a bit bigger but not massively and quite easy to get hold of.

you gotta remeber I am happy with just 180 bhp and really usable low end punchy power.

I have made my decision and am currently making flanges to weld to. Paid 50 quid for turbo and hopefully will have it on in the next 2-3 weeks.

You wouldn't be able to use a VNT turbo. They are designed for diesel engines, diesels exhaust gas temperature is lower than that of a petrol engine, the VNT mechanism isn't made to cope with that amount of heat. There are very few petrol engines to ever use VNT turbos.

And on top of that, you've then got to be able to control the vanes, which is not simple at all, on cars that come with VNT's it's programmed into the ECU and they use either vacuum or electronic actuators and are controlled by a variety of inputs (engine load, throttle position, rpm, etc...) you can't just hook them up to a boost controller.

The suggestion above of a GT15 is pretty close to a CT9 in terms of size, but I'd say it's worth going for something around GT20 size as it wont be too laggy, spool will be better than a TD04, and they are more efficient.

TD04's are solid reliable turbos but they are fairly old tech now.

Without even looking at the specs of this turbo, knowing that it's off a 2.5 diesel it's almost certainly smaller than the usual tried and tested TD04, and wont really be ideal for a petrol engine, the turbine housing will have a relatively small A/R and the compressor wheel will be designed for high boost but less flow compared to one that would be designed for a petrol engine, as diesels tend to be designed for use over a narrow rpm range.

Are you sure it's not wastegate creep?

If your wastegate has a weak spring for example, it might be set for lets say 15 psi but the force of the exhaust gas is enough to crack it open at 10 psi, so those last few psi rise very slowly as the gas is bypassing the turbine instead of continuing to spool it up.

A boost controller can usually fix this problem, as the actuator will see no boost at all until it reaches whatever the boost controller is set at. As per the original example, if your boost controller is set to 15 psi, it will stay shut until it reaches 15 psi and then it will open and allow boost pressure to pass to your wastegate actuator.

I bought the SE37K's

Going to get them refurbished as they're a bit tatty round the edges, thinking of going with bronze or possibly anthracite as they don't really stand out in the usual silver or black.

Opinions please

I'm thinking of buying these wheels, I'm sure you lot will approve of them, Rays/Volk SE37K:

attempt at photoshop lol:

googled pic of the wheels:

Get an old scappy B16 CRX and use that

Don't ruin a CRX!!! Civic wouldn't be a bad shout though.

What about a mk1 Toyota MR2 they're 1.6 non turbo.

Load of bollocks IMO, by the time they sprayed it the outside temperature could have changed so it's hardly a scientific test, and either way the difference when there's air going through it is minimal, and that's what's important.

The only reason you'd really spray an intercooler black is to hide it.

Not updated this for a long time, progress is slow as usual, big brakes have been fitted and are working well, not fully bedded in yet but they feel a lot better.

I keep getting tempted to buy some coilovers but the handling is so good on standard suspension that I can hardly justify the cost, same story for wheels, I would love some different wheels so that the car looks more individual but I can't justify the cost when the standard wheels look fine and aren't all that heavy.

Anyway this is the reason I'm posting an update:

I've had some turbo adaptor plates made, as you can just about see in the picture it's all bolted up to a spare manifold, I still need to do a bit of porting so that the gas flows into the turbine housing a bit better and the compressor housing needs to be clocked but apart from that it's ready to go.

I haven't had a Starlet for a few years but still got friends and family with them and I've regularly kept coming back to the forum as it's always been a decent bunch of people on here, not going to mention any names but UKSC/UKSO has always had a much better attitude than some of the other forums I use.

The car scene as a whole has changed loads since I first joined, when I owned my first Starlet the "JDM" thing was still in full swing and genuine JDM parts were being imported and sold and everyone was really into what I'd consider a proper way to modify a car - make it go faster and generally improve how the car drives.

Now things have moved on from "JDM" loads of people are into this Euro/stance/slammed bullshit or they simply just want a brand new car on finance and don't care about how a car drives, it seems to me like cars aren't as popular as they once were and are seen more as a fashion thing rather than having fun.

One thing that I've always noticed on here though is people who get on the slippery slope of modding their car for more and more power and eventually get to the point where they've gone just a bit too far and the car is awful to drive as a day to day car so they strip it and sell the parts within a matter of weeks.

19T refers to the compressor wheel, the usual TD04 that most people use has a 13T compressor wheel.

Flanges are irrelevant as the compressor sides are mostly interchangeable. I'm unsure about it being a T2 flange though, T2 is a Garret and TD04 is MHI.

The difference in performance will be that the 19T wheel is bigger and can run more boost/flow more air.

I saw this on thursday I think it was, parked next to a DC5