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ste91

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Posts posted by ste91

    TD04L turbos from different cars

    in Intake, Turbo & Exhaust

    Posted

    The normal Td04-13T I think it is? Will serve 99% of the people well, but it depends what the lads after really and his budget.

    Lets not go there on me being an "expert" :thumbsup:

    Well you say that compressor maps mean nothing, why not provide us with the rest of the information we need instead of just saying it means nothing?

    And if they really do mean nothing, then why are they so widely used as a means of determining whether a turbo will be suitable for your power goals?

    TD04L turbos from different cars

    in Intake, Turbo & Exhaust

    Posted

    Not to sound like a prick but I don't see what your point is?



    After a few hours of research and a bit of common sense (or rather, TD04's are already widely used on Starlets, so they're a pretty safe bet regardless of which one you go for) it's not difficult to decide on a suitable turbo.



    The only other thing to keep in mind when looking for TD04's is be aware of the turbine housing which is shown by the last number in the name for example: TD04-13T-6 is the WRX one off the top of my head, but there's also a TD04-13T-4 which has a smaller turbine housing and is used on some diesel engines.



    So "TD04" on it's own doesn't mean a lot, "TD04-13T" is more useful but only when you have the full name "TD04-13T-6" will you know what you're really getting.


    TD04L turbos from different cars

    in Intake, Turbo & Exhaust

    Posted · Edited by ste91

    Compressor maps are all well and good but you need to find one for a td04, and besides the compressor wheel is only half the story.

    There are plenty of TD04 compressor maps on the net, there's a few in those links I posted above.

    Fell like I've opened a can of worms here haha and before this I just thought a td04 was a td04

    Using the calculations off the link I posted, for a 4EFTE, I've forgot what the rev limit is so I've just used 7k but you can change it:

    Lets say boost is 1.2 bar as an example, 1.2 bar converted to psi is 17.4:

    14.7 + 17.4, divided by 14.7 = 2.18 but lets round it up to 2.2 to make it easier:

    1.3 x 7000 x 90 x 2.2 divided by 5660 = 318 CFM

    So now you need to convert CFM as the maps for the TD04's in the link I posted above aren't in CFM, it tells you on that page that you need to convert it but I just used google to calculate it:

    318 cfm =

    0.150079287 (m^3) / s

    So just say it's 0.15

    Now you can stick this on the map, find 2.2 on the Y axis and 0.15 on the X axis and there you go.

    Have a good read of the links I posted it's complicated at first but simple once you've done it.

    But don't take this as gospel as I'm not an expert on this at all I'm only going by what I've researched online but it seemed to work fine for me when I was looking at some compressor maps last week.

    diesel starlet on jdm auction watch lol

    in eBay, BidJDM, Yahoo Auction Finds

    Posted

    I doubt it would spool a TD04 until the redline lol, but you could soon stick a CT9 on it, although a GT15 or T2 from a 306 DTurbo would be better suited.



    Fit a fuel pump from the turbo model with the boost compensator on it and modify the pump and/or injectors, you could easily make 100+ bhp on one of them I reckon. If you could fit a Bosch VE pump on there you'd be well sorted on the fuelling side of things.


    Which speakers out of these?

    in Interior & ICE

    Rebuilding head as to have something like VTEC?

    in N/A E-Series Engine Discussions

    Posted

    Anything is possible with the cash.

    However! I don't see the point, when you could just use a manifold like the ACIS to give you the bottom end torque for pottering around town, and then the mid-top end torque by utilising shorter runners for the fast backroad/track action.

    It would be much much cheaper, much easier to install, easier to setup, etc.

    Not to mention that the 4E is of a square design engine, and the 5E is under square making power a lot sooner in the rev range than VTEC engines.

    If that's what you wanted to look at doing, I would look closer to home with Toyota's VVTI system :)

    A variable inlet manifold is totally different to variable valve timing/lift, the ACIS manifold just alters the "acoustics" of the air intake to optimise air flow for high/low revs.

    The idea of VTEC is that you have a low cam to retain low end torque and high cam for high end power. If you just had the low cam permanently, it would choke the high end power. If you had the high cam on permanently, you would lose low end torque, and the engine wouldn't run as smoothly, and you'd also lose MPG.

    It would take a lot of R&D and engineering work to build something like as suggested in the first post, infact it would be less work to do a complete engine swap.

    Fastest 5efe!

    in N/A E-Series Engine Discussions

    Posted · Edited by ste91

    I personally wouldn't bother touching the block, if you start with a 5EFHE rather than 5EFE you already have a huge advantage and cost saving, especially the later 5EFHE's that rev to 7800rpm, plus FHE's are already high compression and the rods are a bit stronger.



    Simply port & polish the head and fit some uprated cams, a decent 4-1 manfiold and bigger throttle body, full exhaust system, and a piggyback ECU/remap. You could also go for things like lightweight flywheel/pulleys if your budget allows.



    Bolting on random parts and hoping for the best wont get you very far, you want to optimise things like intake/exhaust diameter, manifolds etc... to match the cams, as ultimately the cams/head dictate where in the rev range your peak torque/power is made.



    Increasing the revs and shifting the peak torque further up the rev range will make more power.



    But really it's a lot of money to spend for not a whole lot of power in the real world. Simply fitting a decat+exhaust system and turning up the boost on a standard 4EFTE will probably get you the same result.


    Fastest 5efe!

    in N/A E-Series Engine Discussions

    Posted · Edited by ste91

    The bottom line is you wont make any real gains without increasing the compression ratio or uprating the cams.



    You don't necessarily need to pull the engine apart and fit high comp pistons, you could probably make good power on a standard block, although 5EFHE internals wouldn't be a bad idea as the rods are a bit stronger from what I remember.



    Some decent cams and head work (port and polish) and raise the rev limit, aslong as the head can flow enough air and your intake/exhaust system are up to scratch you should be able to make some decent power, however you will lose low end torque as that is the trade off with a high revving N/A engine.



    It depends how serious you are about it though, 99% of the time it works out cheaper and easier to go down the turbo route.


    TF035 - quicker spooling TD04 alternative?

    in Intake, Turbo & Exhaust

    Posted · Edited by ste91

    Cheers, smaller exhaust is what I need really, from what I can tell the TF035 is a step down from a TD04 in the same way you'd compare a TD04 to a TD05.



    I'm considering this turbo for another car which the standard turbo is VERY similar in size to the CT9, but a TD04 is just a little too big/too laggy, so something in between would be ideal, but from searching I can only see that the TF035 has a 49mm compressor wheel which is too small, no better than standard really.





    I've just found this "TF035HM-15T" which I think is possibly a hybrid, TD04 15T cold side by the look of it?


    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kinugawa-Upgrade-Turbocharger-4G15-Colt-Turbo-Ralliart-R-Czt-TF035HM-15T-200HP-/121112956771


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