Broony

They know what they are doing down there so they will map the car to within its potential which is normally 1bar unless you want them to push it which others have done.

In theory it sholdnt but depends as with anything if the turbo smashes/ propellar blades snap then parts can enter your engine but you'd be quite unlucky and thats normally associated with running stupid high boost So you will more than likley be fine

keep an eye on it mate, if the turbo goes it (dont quote me on this) shouldnt do any damage if its just oil seals, simple swap it out when its furked. I know loads of people that have had fucked turbos then swapped them out and they have been fine Keep an eye on ya oil levels too:)

its one of those things thats hard to tell unless yuo have smoke pouring out the exhaust constantly it could be turbo, fuel issues, stem seals Check the simple things first before spending big money

THE BASICS Fundamentally, wastegates are simply valves, the top of the valve is connected to a chamber isolated by a diaphragm or plunger, this creates an upper and lower control chamber. Turbocharger pressure acts on this chamber (usually the lower chamber to force the valve up and open), much like the effect of an air spring. The valve is kept shut by a spring inside the diaphragm chamber to keep the valve shut and also to offset the actuation pressure. In summary, the spring keeps the valve shut, and boost pressure forces it open, this is how the valve is controlled. The basic task of t

Best way to test it is to let it idle to warm up and once warm give it a few blasts to clear the condensation and you can tell if your burning oil as it it will be bluey/black smoke, it could be over fueling? If you still can decide take it for a blast with some one following you check see if anything happens on boost, then check idle again. Normally the exhaust side will just burn the oil off if it is leaking anyway.

^Looking forward to some more vid taggy, just love the retro newness:)

Cars in the garage today having the oil pump seals and crank seals (small end) changed along with a oil change and a sandwhich plate fitted for the oil temp:) will update with pics later

Cheers mates its getting there just niggly things like the dash clocks!!! proper pissing me off Am sure they are not meant to be like that when ignitions off and is very un responsive: FML

Bought a set of dials 98 spec as mine were indigo ones which didnt work and i cant see at night, also noticed when mapping the car they didnt read accuratly. So i have fitted these 98 spec ones and the rev counter seems to stick/ not very responsive here a vid : and here is what the gauges look like with the ingintion off: Does any body know the standard cold start and warm idle figures?? Also noticed that when on boost its at 1bar by 3.5-4k( i was driving and looking lol when my dyno figures state it didnt hit full boost until 4.3k?? could this just be a sticky rev gauge?

Yes they are rip offs but are not identical as the fit of a genuine blitz is far superior to any chinese tat. As for smaller budgets thats where buying copies and rips off of certain products like fake hks dump valves and Sard FPR's can cost you more in the long run. Its when people think its ok to directly coppy stuff like JAM kits and Varis kits or Work wheels and Volks copying imo is wrong no matter what it is but i do get what you mean about price of certain things like intercoolers and exhausts but you pay for what you get and anybody who buys genuine items knows how much better they fit

Just watch that, drivimg looks smooth mate keep it up.

Im with you on this one i HATE, fakes and direct coppies/replicas when i comes to cars. Wheels and body parts are my main pet hates!! Can stand the fact that people buy the genuine article and have copies made claiming to to be that style when they are just a direct copy of that product, so when you comes to buying parts that you think could be genuine you have no idea if it is or not because the market is floodded with SHIT!!unless its genuinly stamped up which alot of stuff isnt!! Thats just my veiw though rant over

Nice! You shouldnt need the FCD with the emanage though:)

Loving how this has been dragged up to scratch good work !!

Camskill still stock t1r's

Its not really a group buy when camskill do them for 136.00 and his offer is 133.00 and id have to wait a month before its all sorted out so id rather just buy off them in that case.

As above im after a rear anti roll bar for my glanza peter

more options availible if you coulg go to a 45 profile, Im running t1r proxes which are supper grippy, i ran falken on my 200sx which were good in the dry and superb in the wet, personal preference between the top brands really

sweet i want one too!!

Have you tried resetting it and re entering the setting? The manual explains about turning it off etc, my mate solve his by resetting and putting it back in.

Knew I should of kept my profec b spec 2 , apart from it changing channel its fine, I might set all 6 the same so it will solve the issue haha!

Has any one else had problems with their gizzmo?? Mine every now and then jumps channel to the next one along, its currently on channel 4 and skips to 5, its not me hitting the button, as it has changed while i have been driving and ive secured to down as i thought that was the problem when hitting bumps etc. puzzles the fuck out of me!!

take the boost controller off then see if it boost, the actuator should hold stable boost if not then its at fault

Soem tasty shots there!! Belting weekend for it aswell!!