Broony

keep an eye on it mate, if the turbo goes it (dont quote me on this) shouldnt do any damage if its just oil seals, simple swap it out when its furked. I know loads of people that have had fucked turbos then swapped them out and they have been fine Keep an eye on ya oil levels too:)

its one of those things thats hard to tell unless yuo have smoke pouring out the exhaust constantly it could be turbo, fuel issues, stem seals Check the simple things first before spending big money

THE BASICS Fundamentally, wastegates are simply valves, the top of the valve is connected to a chamber isolated by a diaphragm or plunger, this creates an upper and lower control chamber. Turbocharger pressure acts on this chamber (usually the lower chamber to force the valve up and open), much like the effect of an air spring. The valve is kept shut by a spring inside the diaphragm chamber to keep the valve shut and also to offset the actuation pressure. In summary, the spring keeps the valve shut, and boost pressure forces it open, this is how the valve is controlled. The basic task of the wastegate is to vent exhaust gas away from the turbo inlet, the less exhaust gas that flows through the turbo, the less boost pressure the turbo can produce. Thus the wastegate “wastes” exhaust gas and lowers boost. A typical example of how a wastegate would function, specifically our Tial 44mm Wastegate and one of our favorites. This particular wastegate is supplied “off the shelf” with a 2.0 BAR wastegate spring or about 14.7 psi atmospheric pressure. Thus, as the turbo begins to spool up from 0psi, the valve remains shut as the spring exerts 14.7psi on the valve. As the turbo continues to spool, boost pressure climbs past 5, 10 and finally by 15psi the pressure in the lower wastegate chamber overcomes the pressure of the spring and begins forcing the valve up and open. As the valve continues to open, more gas is routed around the turbo thus causing the turbo to slow down, and the turbo pressure falls into a synchronicity with the wastegate spring pressure and the 14.7psi of boost pressure is solidly maintained. A wastegate cannot control boost any lower than the pressure of its spring, the above wastegate will never be able to provide a boost level below 14.7psi. In order to run lower boost, a softer spring would be required. And now I know what you’re wondering… HOW TO INCREASE OR MANIPULATE BOOST PRESSURE Up to this point we’ve discussed how a wastegate works with only the spring pressure inside it and without any outside control systems. Using spring pressure is a good way to control boost as it results in flat and stable boost pressure. Base spring pressure won’t compensate for temperature variations (and thus boost pressure variations), and high levels of boost become ridiculous to control with only spring pressure as the spring rates go through the roof. Bolting the wastegate back together could require literally hundreds of pounds depending on the design of the wastegate. In almost any case, applications over 15psi boost, its recommended to use an outside control system to increase boost pressure. These systems always manifest it 2 basic ways: 1 – By bleeding off control pressure to the lower diaphragm and thus causing the wastegate valve to not open as far -or- 2 – By pressurizing the top diaphragm and offsetting the boost pressure to the lower diaphragm, essentially lowering the pressure differential across the diaphragm and not allowing the valve to open as far. We won’t go into too much more detail about these systems in this article, but this point simply emphasizes the way the wastegate works and how it controls boost. DISPELLING THE MYTH By this point you should have a good fundamental understanding of how wastegates work, and thus should be able to deduct why some of the myths are false. Since a larger wastegate has the capacity to bypass more exhaust gas than smaller wastegates, in a given application, larger valves are actually better suited to less boost and lower HP applications. Saying a larger wastegate is necessary for more power is like saying cars with bigger brakes make more power, when in fact bigger brakes assist in making the car slower, not faster. The highest boost wastegate is no wastegate at all, with out a wastegate a turbocharger would produce its maximum boost capability at all times. CASE STUDY One example of wastegate sizing constraints is in our very own 80tq project. In various configurations we were forced to change wastegate sizes to achieve different boost control strategies. Configuration: GT40R turbo with .95AR, stock 30mm Audi wastegate, free breathing 20v 5-cyl turbo. With this configuration, the lower boost limit was 18psi at 5500rpm, boost would quickly taper to over 30psi by 6500rpm on simply spring pressure with no outside control. The reason for this boost taper increase was that the small 30mm wastegate could not bypass enough exhaust gas to maintain springe pressure boost, causing boost to increase. Counter-intuitively, this very small wastegate was perfectly suited to running 30psi or higher at 600 crank HP and above. The only reason to put a larger wastegate in this application would be to lower boost. By fitting a Tial 44mm wastegate we could maintain a 20psi boost curve all the way to redline, a 60mm wastegate could have been fit to run lower boost curves in the 10psi range, or about 300 crank HP. With such a large turbo and a free flowing motor, large amounts of air go through the motor, thus large amounts must be bypassed to control boost. With a smaller turbo, like a GT3071R for example, the stock Audi wastegate is effective at holding 20psi to redline since overall airflow levels are so much less. GT25R with built in Internal Wastegate THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN INTERNAL AND EXTERNAL This is another commonly misunderstood area; common knowledge has firmly established that external wastegates are superior and most just run with that “knowledge”. Both are very effective and reliable ways to control boost, most OEMs use internal in their turbo systems. Internal Pro’s: -Compact, the wastegate valve is typically integrated into the turbine housing, the actuator bolted to the compressor housing, gases are vented around the turbo inside the turbine housing. -Supplied with many turbos direct from the manufacturer, properly sized and engineered. -Eliminate the wastegate inlet tube in many fabricated manifolds that is usually the failure point (the tube that goes from the header collector to the wastegate inlet, since the wastegate is so heavy and expansive forces great, it will stress the welds on the collector and cause them to break and fail). -Eliminates a need to dump exhaust back into the downpipe or exhaust system. -Effective boost control with external devices. -Leak proof design, no problems with loosening hardware. Internal Con’s: -Due to the way the wastegate vents directly behind the turbine, the venting can cause turbulence which can adversely affect boost control and turbo flow. Proof of this effect is rare and its effect seen more rarely. -Spring rates inside the wastegate are difficult to change and require a new actuator. -Turbo clocking not as flexible as the wastegate actuator mounting forces the compressor housing into specific locations -Limited in size, typically internal wastegate valves measure in the 25mm range, which doesn’t make them as useful for very low boost applications. External Pro’s -Large range of sizes means flexible boost tuning options, smallest are 30mm and go as large as 60mm. Multiples can be used for high-waste applications -Easy to change out spring rates to set base boost pressure. -Flexible mounting options as the wastgate can be mounted remotely from the turbo -Limitless brand and size options on the market to suit any turbo and wastegate, choices can be made independently of each other. -Wastegate dump can be facilitated far from the turbo turbine outlet reducing turbulence problems. -V-banded wastegates like the Tial 44mm are leak proof and stay tight. External Con’s -Can be large and bulky, difficult to package depending on the application. -Require a vent tube in the collector of the manifold, which can often be a point of header failure. -Models with 2-bolt flanges have chronic problems keeping hardware tight; we’ve seen them literally fall off. Bottom line, both are effective ways to control boost and have their pro’s and con’s, don’t discount internal wastegates as a reliable, solid way to control boost. Ironically, internal wastegate’s biggest flaw is that due to their smaller size, they are not as useful for low boost applications. The other big criticism of internal wastegates, that they cause turbulence behind the turbine wheel, is minimized as boost increases due to less flow out the wastegate and more through the turbo. Some good reading Taken From :http://www.mitsu-media.com/showthread.php?t=6206

Best way to test it is to let it idle to warm up and once warm give it a few blasts to clear the condensation and you can tell if your burning oil as it it will be bluey/black smoke, it could be over fueling? If you still can decide take it for a blast with some one following you check see if anything happens on boost, then check idle again. Normally the exhaust side will just burn the oil off if it is leaking anyway.

^Looking forward to some more vid taggy, just love the retro newness:)

Cars in the garage today having the oil pump seals and crank seals (small end) changed along with a oil change and a sandwhich plate fitted for the oil temp:) will update with pics later

Cheers mates its getting there just niggly things like the dash clocks!!! proper pissing me off Am sure they are not meant to be like that when ignitions off and is very un responsive: FML

Bought a set of dials 98 spec as mine were indigo ones which didnt work and i cant see at night, also noticed when mapping the car they didnt read accuratly. So i have fitted these 98 spec ones and the rev counter seems to stick/ not very responsive here a vid : and here is what the gauges look like with the ingintion off: Does any body know the standard cold start and warm idle figures?? Also noticed that when on boost its at 1bar by 3.5-4k( i was driving and looking lol when my dyno figures state it didnt hit full boost until 4.3k?? could this just be a sticky rev gauge?

Yes they are rip offs but are not identical as the fit of a genuine blitz is far superior to any chinese tat. As for smaller budgets thats where buying copies and rips off of certain products like fake hks dump valves and Sard FPR's can cost you more in the long run. Its when people think its ok to directly coppy stuff like JAM kits and Varis kits or Work wheels and Volks copying imo is wrong no matter what it is but i do get what you mean about price of certain things like intercoolers and exhausts but you pay for what you get and anybody who buys genuine items knows how much better they fit. i had a japseed crap exhaust on my 200sx and i bought a blitz nur spec for it and the fit was miles better!!

Just watch that, drivimg looks smooth mate keep it up.

Im with you on this one i HATE, fakes and direct coppies/replicas when i comes to cars. Wheels and body parts are my main pet hates!! Can stand the fact that people buy the genuine article and have copies made claiming to to be that style when they are just a direct copy of that product, so when you comes to buying parts that you think could be genuine you have no idea if it is or not because the market is floodded with SHIT!!unless its genuinly stamped up which alot of stuff isnt!! Thats just my veiw though rant over

Nice! You shouldnt need the FCD with the emanage though:)

Loving how this has been dragged up to scratch good work !!

Camskill still stock t1r's

Its not really a group buy when camskill do them for 136.00 and his offer is 133.00 and id have to wait a month before its all sorted out so id rather just buy off them in that case.

As above im after a rear anti roll bar for my glanza peter

more options availible if you coulg go to a 45 profile, Im running t1r proxes which are supper grippy, i ran falken on my 200sx which were good in the dry and superb in the wet, personal preference between the top brands really

sweet i want one too!!

Have you tried resetting it and re entering the setting? The manual explains about turning it off etc, my mate solve his by resetting and putting it back in.

Knew I should of kept my profec b spec 2 , apart from it changing channel its fine, I might set all 6 the same so it will solve the issue haha!

Has any one else had problems with their gizzmo?? Mine every now and then jumps channel to the next one along, its currently on channel 4 and skips to 5, its not me hitting the button, as it has changed while i have been driving and ive secured to down as i thought that was the problem when hitting bumps etc. puzzles the fuck out of me!!

take the boost controller off then see if it boost, the actuator should hold stable boost if not then its at fault

Soem tasty shots there!! Belting weekend for it aswell!!

Internal or external wastegate?? internal could be a weak/furked actuator, split vaccum pipe External could be the boost controller settings, plumbing, split vaccum pipe ( try just running wategate spring pressure) if that work you know its the boost controller if not then watse gate

gram lights win hands down!!