Pav

Well, you can't deny the truth! Rack up a nice Gt, then work your magic with a load of zep racing body work, and respray in carribean blue I say!

Ah I see about the gauge now, looks pretty simple to me. Just mount the black box under the dash (under the drivers side somewhere, then route the boost pipe through the firewall. I would have thought the black box takes the power then feeds it to the gauge, could be the other way around though.

Also, stepper motor gauges FTW, much better and more accurate than mechanical ones in my opinion!

Firstly, keep to a starlet mate, this forum needs you lol.

Also, does the gauge kit have any units, boxes with a nipple that a boost hose can connect to? If it doesnt you will probably need to source one from somewhere. I cant think of any other way it would read boost otherwise! Pics of the rear of the gauge, wiring and any other units would be a definate help too

Did you get this from TC, Sparks?

Alright mate, got sparkys one I see, thats one sweet boost gauge mate.

Get a piccy up of the wiring. Usually its pretty simple. Just wire up the red (and possibly yellow too if there is one) to a live point such as cigarette lighter or ecu, and ground the earth somewhere on the car or clip onto an earth wire

I presume its a stepper motor gauge like my new one which has a seperate sender unit that sits in the engine bay and reads the boost level?

Looking forward to seeing it in the car!

Hi mate,

I've just installed two Rpm gauges (An Autogauges one, and a superior Trisco one) to my glanza so this is fresh in my mind, it will be the same for a uk spec starlet too.

Dont bother trying to splice into the ecu rpm wire, mine got no reading. Dave burwash recommended using the distributor as the best rpm source. The best way is to feed the green rpm wire through the firewall into the engine bay and get it near the distributor, this is the component that the king spark lead plugs into. There will be a connector that plugs into it with two black wires coming out of it. You need to splice into the negative wire of the two. Use a scotch block blade connector to branch onto it.

That is the best source of rpm mate, the rest of the wiring is pretty easy, just live, ground and possibly ignition or lighting dim which I either would leave or splice into the live.

Hope that helps mate.

Thanks Rick. I've got it pretty much sorted now. It seems my autogauges boost gauge was reading all over the place. I've now got a more accurate (bar) stepper motor gauge installed and the reading is much more consistent and stable. It doesn't shoot up and back down any more, I think being a mechanical cheapo jobby the autogauge just wasnt able to give a steady reading. It turns out I was only running a steady .9bar, so I've upped it to a stable 1.05 bar for now which feels miles better.

I already have a toytuning actuator (which due to a thread problem, I cant adjust past 12 psi), but I will be getting an ebc though defo, just need to decide which one to go for!

I have a large AutoGauge Tacho with shift light and its mint. Very accurate and the adjustable shift light is brilliant!

I dont see much point in buying one thats smaller than your stock rev gauge if you have one. If not, then itll do a good job especially for £15 odd.

hehe, when you work at Halfords Cribbs Causeway you have agreements and rules with everyone else who works there.

Rule 1. You do not talk about Halfords Cribbs Causeway.

Rule 2. You DO NOT talk about Halfords Cribbs Causeway.

Rule 3. Always park your car over 2 spaces together with other colleagues cars. This avoids incidents involving idiot customers who park ridiculously close to you car and slam their door into your beautiful new paint job you've just spend thousands on, and proceed to drive off after buying their goods, oblivious to what they have done. As you can tell, this has happened to employees before so we like to avoid it happening again.

Heres a few pics I took today, it was a beauty of a day and the glanz was sparkling so I thought why not!

lol, I havent seen Roman road at christmas. My neighboors house is sight to be reckoned with though, it is decked to the hilt with lights! I must get a photo of it sometime. They do it as a fundraiser with a santas groto lol. Its for the British Heart Foundation so its all in good faith.

Another little quiery I have people! Bear with me as I will have to explain it in detail.

Now my Blitz Ecu is in and is running sweet, I've been able to turn the boost up. I set it to what I thought was 1 bar (15psi) using my dawes device boost controller.

Now, heres the issue I have. When I put my foot down, especially in 2nd gear above 3krpm, the boost naturally comes in very rapidly. The boost shoots to 16psi sometimes then settles right back down to 13-14 psi. I know this is the nature of the initial spool of the turbo but that is quite a big peak! I'm hoping that installing a decent ebc will allow me to lower this peak as it concerns me slightly.

The target boost I'm aiming for is 15psi or 1.05 bar. In reality Im not achieving that, Im only running 14, sometimes 13.5psi which isnt my target. My question, presuming that the blitz access is fueling sufficiently, is if I increase the setting on the dawes device slightly so that I am settling at 15psi, will the initial peak of 16+psi (1.1bar) be too much for the engine to cope? Bear in mind that it only peaks to this for a very short time and doesnt always peak at 16, sometimes it will only reach 15.5, sometimes it hits 14psi dead on and stays there, it depends on what gear im in. Usually 2nd gear initiates the largest peak. My engine has done 75,000 miles and was compression tested with all cylinders being spot on.

Any help would be much appreciated on this, I want to be running a steady 1 bar but don't want to push things too far. If there is a way to stop or minimise this boost spool peak, that would be ideal.

Cheers,

Alex

No problemo, will do mate. I agree too that a performance ecu is a good option for someone who wants to mod progressively, rather than just whack everything on in one go and get it mapped via a piggyback.

lol, If I decide to sell up, you'll be the first to know matey . Im not running an Fpr, theres no need for one, some Ecus like Jam for instance advise not to use one with them at all as it can adversely affect they're operation.

As CMR said, they remove the fuel cut limit and will fuel well over 1 bar (as long as the injectors are sufficient), as well as providing advanced ignition timing (which further aids a power increase). The shape of the map itself is more aggressive and responsive to boost, so the fuel economy goes straight out the window under full throttle (like it didnt before! lol). With stock injectors, a Blitz Access or Jam has the ability to run them at a much higher duty cycle (opening and closing more frequently per second, letting more fuel through) than the stock ecu meaning 1-1.1 bar is perfectly achievable. On bigger injectors, much larger turbos can be run such as the TD04 and so on. The Ecu like the stock simply reads the Afr and decides to adjust to acheive its target ratio. The target Air fuel ratio will be different to the stock setup of course with a focus on performance.

In terms of "self learning", they do no more so than a stock ecu. They read multiple signals of info coming from the engine sensors and decide how to proceed. Many people, including me have missinterpreted this as a special feature that only Jam and Blitz offer, this is not the case. However the base map has been changed to increase performance. The luck of the game is finding an Ecu that benefits your mods. I think I hit the jackpot with the Access, as it seems to love my setup! lol

Running an ARC top mount mate, its cool all the time at 1 bar so no problems with heat at the moment

Ah I see, those Arcs are very impressive, I dont quite understand why theyre so good. I had an Rx7 topmount and it got ridiculously hot after a run, the core would almost burn your hand! Now its cool as ice on the HDI core.

Good Good, glad to hear it. One question, are you running a front mount intercooler? As soon as I put mine on, it made a massive difference, if I still had my Jam now, it would probably be running sweet by now, but at the time, it wasnt agreeing with my topmount, past 13psi.

I can feel the blitz has plenty more potenial in it, if I were running a forged engine I'd be happy running it at 1.2-1.3 bar but that would be pushing my luck on standard internals!

I looked at the turbosmart ones, thanks for pointing it out, might be a good alternative to an ebc! Just need to find a cheap one I guess

There is no problem with manual spring boost controllers, they do their job fine.. I imagine the dawes device he has isn't working correctly or is a replica etc, the only advantage to EBC is you can set advanced options like boost per gear like what you are saying.. their technique is basically the same.

As for the JAM/Blitz ecu, the one I got from you Pav doesnt and I havnt seen it before on any others

I understand mate, I think mine may be a dud unit. I got it from a local company called FCM motorsport who are the main dealer for Gizzmo EBCs. They sold it to me for a tenner but told me that it came off one of their demo evos and they werent very impressed with it at all. Now they have a Gizzmo on, its much much better and more consistent at reaching and holding boost levels according to them.

I guess if my old Jam one still keeps the restriction, then the Blitz most likely will too . How is the Jam one treating you mate?

hehe, you gotta be a search warrior my friend, which by the look of your posts in the yahoo auctions, you are! Keep looking and one will come up. You won't believe what I paid for mine considering what they usually go for lol

I hear you about the boost controller, and that is exactly what I plan. But as funds are tight for the next few weeks I'm just looking for a quick fix lol. There are so many good ebcs out there the next problem will be choosing one!

I understand that how they work, but a simple electronic bleed valve alone cannot know what gear you are in, unless it gets input from the ecu. With this being the case, the ecu settings could be changed, allowing full boost to be run in 1st and 2nd, like the subsequent gears.

All I want to know is, has this been done on ecus such as Jam, Blitz, Sard etc

As the title says, I was wondering about this. I'm thinking of plugging my stock boost controller solenoid back in to help keep the boost stable. I'm using a dawes device which isnt brilliant tbh.

If I do this, will the stock restrictions for boost in 1st and 2nd gear still be in place? Did Blitz/Jam etc not perhaps think to disable this feature on the ecu, or is it controlled externally? I know that there is a boost control wire on the ecu loom, so I presume such a feature could be changed or disabled if Blitz wanted to.

I may just try it myself and see what happens, I just thought I'd ask if anyone knew already!

Cheers,

Alex

This is one of my favorite glanzas, love what you've done with it.

That blue on the rocker cover looks spot on too!

Put a post up in the tech section mate, I'm sure someone will know, and theyll be more likely to see it there instead of someones car thread.

ooooo i know where u mean, myn has it too....... water??? lmao! no idea

I'm not sure what it is either lol, tbh Im suprised you could make out what any of them were from that pic lol

huh? below the rev counter there are 5 lights

- oil pres

- hand brake

- seat belt

- abs

- ????

Oh I see!, thats the handbrake light on the far right mate

yeh, its called an Idic8tor, very useful for keeping within the limit!

blackpool illumination!!!!! by the way whats the little light on the dash (looks like a hotdog)

hahaha, which bit? the green numbers? Thats a gps speedo + camera detector if thats what you meant lol

Just thought I'd add a lil interior pic of my new dials, I wish my camera phone was better in the dark!

The massive blue blob is an highly unessecary but equaly extreme tachometer with twin blind-yourself-at-night shift lights lol, was pretty much free so I thought why not!