5T4R7ET N/A

Still got it mate, the project continues

Picked up this steering wheel

Reminds me of the orginal mclaren F1 road car steering wheel, my favourite car. Its not exactly the same but i really like it

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Downloading this now, photobucket is pissing me right off!'

Got too many projects going on at the moment, hoping to continue working on the starlet soon.

Can't believe it's been a year already

SOLD - admin please delete

Year:1998

Model: starlet GLS

Tax: n/a

MOT: 1st october

Mileage: 96k

Description:

Toyota starlet GLS for sale

1998 on S reg, Green, 5 door, 5speed manual. 96k genuine mileage. Very good engine,gearbox and suspension. Service history with reciepts up to 68k. Previous lady owners. Mot expires start october

Electric front windows

Central locking

Power steering

Electric sunroof

2x genuine keys

Car drives smooth and will go on for many more miles. Body work is not the best but its nearly 20 years old now it is a genuine car. No respraying or big accidents.

I have had the car nearly 3 years and only replaced front tyres, battery and ht leads. Plus regular oil changes with fully synthetic oil every 7k.

Passed last year mot with no problems. The only fault on the

Car i can think of is parcel shelf clips are broken.

This was my wifes commuting car and now she needs something bigger, she would have kept it otherwise. Good on fuel and cheap to insure and tax.

This would make a great first car or even local run about.

Price: SOLD

Pictures:

Contact Details:

Starlets are pretty good when it comes to rust, especially ep91.

Its just depends on where the car has been and if it been regularly washed. Mud is the killer that gets in the corners and sills and holds moisture in that place causing it to rust

Starlets are now getting 20+ years old, so maintenance will become more difficult.

Check all the sills and main chassis points for rust. Petrol tanks are also known to leak.

Lower seat rails that don't cost £300 each side haha

Lower Seat rails,

browner had some they sold out fast and it never happened again.

you see the grannies admiring the beast in the first picture (says it all)

Top qaulity motor, good luck with it

^^ Yeh set one up and then we will see what happens

I assume you have checked the shocks from inside the car.

As above there is a washer that sits on top and underneath the mounting.

If they are not there the shock absorber strut will come up into the car

Take pictures other the top mounts from inside the car if not sure

First check it yourself by giving the belts a hard tug and see if they lock, might just been off day for the tester

If they dont lock,

Fully pull out the seatbelt, get some furniture polish (pledge?) spray the belt as it winds back in on both sides.

See if that gets them locking again.

^^agreed, copy and paste bro

I would say the needle needles resetting then. You probably didnt put it back it exactly the right place

When cold the needle sits a lot lower than the marking on the console

Take a look at some pictures of temp needle of other glanza's

its could be following

if its been a warm day then in thoery could be picking up a bit of temperature instead of not moving when stone cold?

or

it always moves when the ignition is turned on? to show gauge has got power

or

the needle needs resetting, maybe it has been removed before

if your not going to tune it anymore than get that exedy organic will be fine

but you could go stage 2 or 3 if you plan to tune more in the future.

Nay

only stealth black for me

I looked into getting one of these and doing a k20 swap.

Its too much work unless you get the 2.0 s-type model.

So the other engines are a more viable option

OEM is 30mm

go for poly bushing if your going to replace it. they make the suspension work much better and are not mega expensive.

save some £££ if you can install yourself

if you have good road where you live then i would go with a good sert of coilovers

but if you live in a area like mine, speed humps everywhere, dropped man hole cover and drainage grills go with a springs and shocks.

to get a good setup is never going to be cheap.

I have had tien coilovers when i first got my car, and it was terrible. the ride was shocking and if i hit a bump whilst cornering it sent the car all over the place.

I decided to go with koni adjustable shocks and apexi springs (35mm) with tien adjustable top mounts.

This on softer side but then I spent the rest of the money on anti lift kit and polybushing the whole suspension

the ride is very good with enough cornering ability to keep up with most things on the road.

the most important component that will help make this all work is a good set of tyres. nankang ns2r (medium) get my vote

looks real fresh dude,

not many good ones around anymore.

keep up the good work

Its a film, to entertain. Not a documnetary

I understand where your coming from, but im a little different.

I was watching getaway in stockholm and car chases in ronin for action and entertainment

I guess times have changed, I'm getting old.

Fast and furious is just a comedy for me.

Everthing is a joke,

most of cars are over the top and the actions scenes are the same. Unrealistic is a understatement

Those hoses will most likely still go on.

Its a real struggle but you can do it.

Put the end of hose in hot water to soften.

Simultaneously twisting and use screw driver to lift edge up to put on last bit

The gauges will tell you if the car is running hot.

I dont know if you have oil temp gauge or water temp but they are the two that will tell you if your running hot

The water temp wont go above 95 as the fan will kick in and bring temp down to 90

The oil temp shouldn't go above 110. local driving should only get a 85-95.

Its probably just a hot day and the bonnet was sitting in the sun and got hotter than normal, nothing to worry about