ady

it varies a little bit. i think its 13.4 psi

what did you use to get all that out? 5 psi sounds well worth it!

i am an apprentice vehicle body refinisher

ok i'l try again...

how the hell do you attach images?? is there a size limit? i just tried then but it didnt work

nice wheels man.. same as mine!

do you know if its easy to get the orange out, is there a good chance i will break the indicator?

are those clear indicators on the EP82? how do you get them, do you have to break the orange part out thats what i heard??

im going to vomit.

oh right, i always thought they were the same thing! what does a charge cooler look like then?

true. the standard GT's handle like boats!

and its good to see the mk1 ep82 starlet there! dont see too many of them about they're all mk2's i prefer mk1... cus i have one!

isnt a charge cooler just another word for an intercooler?

the hks actuator is adjustable. so when you put all that stuff on, you set the boost by making the actuator arm longer(less boost) or shorter (more boost) if you not guna get an FCD then do what i did, turn the boost up with the actuator and go for a quick cane. if you hit the fuel cut then turn it down till it stops hitting. that way you know ure running as much boost as you can without an FCD be careful though, i burned my hands many times on the turbo doing this!! you will know for sure when you hit fuel cut, its harsh on your neck! so no matter what you do to exhaust and stuff, you can prevent fuel cut with the actuator

corsas are gay!!! vauxhalls are gay!!!

i dont like the idea of the extra lag you get with front mount, but then i dont like the interwarmer idea either, heat soak really spoils the fun. if front mount wasnt so expensive i would go for one, is it cheaper to buy a starlet specific kit, or get one custom fitted? and what about insurance, front mount can be so obvious and if you dont declare insurance your screwed!

dont use t-cut! i am a painter and t-cut is a real harsh compound, i dont reccomend it cus often it causes more damage. go for something real fine like autoglym super resin polish, or farrecla G3

yeah they recommend 10w30 for the 4efte engine but that doesnt even exist in this country! 10w40 is the closest we can get

makes sense

my aircon doesnt even work! what does the ECON button next to the aircon button?

when/where is the tgtt meet?

did you feel a significant difference after you put your ARC on?does it actually add horsepower or torque?

i think fuel cut is 13.5psi. when i fitted my hks actuator i kept turning the boost up, taking it for a cane till i hit fuel cut, then just turned it back down a bit. that way i know im running as much boost as i can without an FCD. probably wont get an FCD it a bit of an expensive mod with the fuel remapping and what not. i sometimes get a bit of hesitation from the engine if i rag it flat out in 3rd gear, feels like a missfire but i think its fuel cut trying to make its mind up if im over boosting or not. but proper fuel cut feels like hitting a brick wall! by the way kPA does stand for kilopascals, its called bar cause its barometric pressure, which is what barometers measure

yeah you need the oil to be real thin from cold to lube up the turbo as soon as the engine starts. but if its too thin like 0w then the oil may leak a bit through the seals of the turbo making it smoke when hot, dont think it causes any damage just a waste of good oil!

i always thought that top mount was better than front mount on starlets cause there is less distance for the air to travel. fair enough front mount will cool much better but you'd sacrifice 500-1000rpm for turbo lag. i dont know which i'd prefer, no turbo lag, or wait a bit longer for a huge kick in the back!