TBDevelopments

haha who told you that rubbish. it looks like stainless bar welded to stainless can with mild steel mig. thats the most amateur weld there is if it can't be replicated i'm a monkeys uncle lol. i'd just clean it up and go over it with Tig and stainless rod Tim TB Developments

Every tubular manifold will eventually crack doesn't matter who made it or what. its all down to the laws of thermal expansion and the fact you've got a heavy turbo hanging off the end. if you address that by hardmouting the turbo and bracing the manifold it'll crack with there isn't enough room to breath so when it gets hot and expands it'll crack because of that. can't win. the only manifolds i've never seen fail from heat expansion and weight were on f1 and topfuel drag cars where the manifold is bolted to the head, and the tail pipe bolted to the chassis. inbetween there are tripple slip expansion joints that allows movement, everwhere the manifold could possible grow there would be a slip joint. all it has to do is flow gas nothing else. But this would be extremely hard to reproduce in a starlet with such small space and turbo location. but even if you can do this they don't last for ever because eventually after all the heat cycles the metal become fatigued and fragile and cracks down to harmonics and internal gas pressure alone. remember exhaust energy is hugely higher than intake pressure. i've seen racetech manifolds crack but like i said above they all will regardless of who makes them its the laws of physics. Tim TB Developments

web address doesn't exist mate unless you mean .com address? Tim TB Developments

I've had turbo's fail from it, and i've been building engines for 15 years and a dealer of garrett turbochargers. low boost isn't going to do much but 2.5bar is a different story mate Tim TB Developments

its more of a case of cleanliness most of the engines i have to rebuild that people have done themselves or had a specialist do and its had issues were down to it not being assembled in a clean environment. scores to the bores, bearings and journals are all down to a poorly cleaned engine. and with an old oil pump your never going to be able to get it spotlessly clean again so i'd wait and just do it properly Tim TB Developments

3sgte do as well on the crank got em instock for that engine if needed Tim TB Developments

well actually its because meth has a higher effective det suppression level so allows you to run more ignition advance in the timing which leads to more power. i used this on my mr2 and without any other chances apart from upping the timing on the ecu went from 308bhp to 325bhp. i have the same kit on my glanza but yet to get it working and dyno'd so can't tell you any results yet Tim TB Developments

yeah but theres another silver one appeared in kiddy/stourport thats stock from what i can see Tim TB Developments

dunno mate been seeing a silver glanza going about quite regularly at the moment. seems fairly stock Tim TB Developments

just route it back into the downpipe best of both worlds then. best boost control and no extra noise. i've got external wastegate on mine and running it back in, i don't feel the starlet is fast enough to warant that kind of noise coming from it Tim TB Developments

blitz uk can get these on order as i've just reordered all the gaskets needed on my K2 turbo kit which is basically a tweeked K24 wasn't much either, think i paid a tad over £50 for all the gaskets on the turbo kit, plus a new wastegate diapham which was the most expensive bit Tim TB Developments

this is a common wear item on the 3sgte gearbox as well that i deal alot with. i'm just about to release a product that actually replaces that solid block with a nice little roller bearing washer that stops it from wearing i'll post it up once i get some in again Tim TB Developments

no good buddy. surely they have to give you a reason why it went up that much, and much difference in price between the glanza and the GT? Tim TB Developments

that thread is utter rubbish. its been going around for years and wasn't actually done by anyone on the supra forum, its been taken from another forum (forget which one) to promote apexi filters for sale through there website. They also ran a full on drift car which was sponcered by.................have a guess................apexi lol I'm a dealer of most of those on that list and used all personally, and have no affiliate between companies and the only one i don't like is the K&N because the fitting kit for the cars i specalise in is rubbish, but the others are still good. will admit blitz sus filters the less, but also found in tests it makes most power, but then again thats pretty common sense. Tim TB Developments

what happened to it mate? looked like an ongoing project when i spoke to you in the petrol station that once. Tim TB Developments

am i just getting old but i never saw the appeal of the stretched tyre look Tim TB Developments

some wall flex is a good thing mate. it needs to be able to move around slightly over being rock solid because its already overly stretched. This is why manufactures don't recommend running widths over or under certain sizes as it effects the way the wall reacts and compromises its performance Tim TB Developments

why would you want to mate it just gives crappy handling Tim TB Developments

the 2nd picture is the new version reloaded style filter. it does look silimiar to the older style but the mesh is to thick for a genuine item. i would say its an older generation hks copy. the hks aren't that bad actually. you just need to keep ontop of there maintance, they recommend an element swap every 15k, which most people don't bother with and then they get brittle and fall apart and then people moan. remember all filters don't last for ever, only one i found doesn't need replacing is the blitz stainless type but then again they aren't the best filtration type in the world either, but saves taking the bumper off everytime you need to change the element Tim TB Developments

its alright mate didn't take it as a dig just answering with an inform response ;) Tim TB Developments

doesn't really make a difference where it is aslong as its in full line pressure. the turbo feed is to tapping a 1/8th" npt into the top of the banjo bolt was a 2 minute job and didn't cost anything so it went there Oil temperature i like to fit these into the sump to give an overal temperature reading. i just drop the sump and weld fittings into them, then repowdercoat when i've done customer cars in the past Tim TB Developments

if you've lost the aircon you could do what i've done. which is to tap the top of the turbo oil feed banjo bolt with the sensor thread. does 2 things, one gives overall oil pressure but also assures me the turbo is getting a good supply. plenty of room to mount it there with the aircon removed. Tim TB Developments

didn't say it can't be done its just really a bad way to do it. Ok fuel cut defenders work in 2 ways. they either add a resistance into the map sensor voltage so the map sensor never really sees its true reading and never hits fuel cut. or it clamps the voltage just under 0.8bar. either way the ecu needs to see an accurate voltage from the map sensor to calculate air/fuel ratio, plus because ignition advance/retard map is worked out on rev again pressure alternations to the map current affects timing advance as well. so now you know FCD will mess up the ignition curve, look at how you correct this. ignition you can't do anything about it. Fueling you add a fuel pressure regulator and increase the base fuel pressure which delivers more fuel across the whole range because they now flow more than the ecu thinks they do. So yes you get the fueling about right at topend over the fuel cut level, but then overfuels all down the rev range. and on cruise/idle when it goes into closed loop 02 feedback the ecu is constantly chasing its own tail because the injectors aren't doing what the ecu knows they will do when they come from the factory. Only way to really do this properly is to fit a piggyback like a greddy emanage and setup it up on the laptop (not quick correction adjustments on the front) and let the stock ecu do everything upto 0.8bar and then let the piggyback do the 0.8bar upwards (fueling wise) but again still not a fan of this as emanages are known the creep with age. numbers in the map don't always equal the same fuel flow year down the line as they were mapped. Seen this quite a lot when i used to use them on the 3sgte engines. Ideal way i found was to just drop a standalone onto the car and be done with it. Your not fooling anything or letting the stock ecu work away and then correcting everything its not doing right etc etc. Just tell the standalone ecu what you want and it'll do it. or the other way like someone has said, those blitz/jam ecu's which are just an eprom chip to remove the fuel cut. there not ideal either but better than the FPR trick. there designed for jap fuel and therefor very advanced on the timing to get more power so you might want to drop base timing back a degree or 2. but atleast get everything checked on a RR with a nice set of det cans. Only misconception with these is they do NOT self map like I've seen written on here so many times. No ecu can self map, only one that comes close is a £2000 motec unit that just sets up a rough base map for the customer on initial startup. a tweek stock ecu won't do this. Tim TB Developments

as long as you stay under fuel cut then you'll be fine to throw what you want at it. stock ecu has fueling and ignition maps for under fuel cut. so if you can solve your boost creep issues to under fuel cut you don't need a better ecu, not unless you want more power and more boost in the future Tim TB Developments

you'll probably find that because of all the extra intake piping the pressure pushing on the BOV isn't as high as the TMIC so the bov wants softening off a bit. or a good clean as i find the blitz is a very simple design and sometimes gets gunked up with oil residue etc. Does it vent when you lift off from full boost so it only chattering at low psi then venting higher up, or doesn't it open at all? On the differences sorry to disagree guys but its both the same thing of varying degree's. surge is basically the compressors inability to maintain an increased pressure on the compressed side of the turbo. for example. You lift off the throttle body closes, the pressure has nowhere to go so the pressure in the IC pipe increases and increases until you get a reversion effect of the air (turbo doesn't spin backwards). You then get full throttle surge which is exactly the same but you turbo is pushing so much air out that the engine can't consume it fast enough, for reasons of to small cams, restrictive intake etc etc. or on the other side that it spools to fast before the VE's of the engine can accept it, like running to small an exhaust housing causing very fast spoolup. again both full throttle surge. This is the most dangerous as the turbo is effectively running an airbrake on the compressor but being pushed hard by the exhaust gases. puts huge strain on the bearings, journal and thrust. But both the same thing, surge. Extract from garrett turbochargers usa, which are one of the biggest turbo manufactures in the world. â?¢Surge is most commonly experienced when one of two situations exist. The first and most damaging is surge under load. It can be an indication that your compressor is too large. Surge is also commonly experienced when the throttle is quickly closed after boosting. This occurs because mass flow is drastically reduced as the throttle is closed, but the turbo is still spinning and generating boost. This immediately drives the operating point to the far left of the compressor map, right into surge. hope that helps Tim TB Developments