the quiet achiever
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Posts posted by the quiet achiever
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hi
just another thought canthe 4efte coil &ext coil set-up be used &adapted ??
this would then let you at least use a different coil & cdi unit wouldn`t it ??
what about the coil packs &trigger unit that is on one of the 4efe units STD has anyone done any work with them to see if it is fittable to another motor or checked it out for similaraties
lyle
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not many people are experimenting with new things, theres a few builds that have used coilpacks but most people see it fit to re-new the standard items and thats it (most cases this is enough) i guess its just expense and the fact there engine setup doesnt require it that people dont do it (needs a standalone ECU to run and mapping costs too aswell as the initial outlay)
the first question you need to ask yourself is, do i really need it? running high rpm? (spark can disintigrate at high rpms) massive boost levels running nos etc etc? it can give you better fuel economy/driveability i guess.....but the initial cost and the cost of replacement coilpacks would easily be more than what money you`ve saved
socks has just commented on how much smoother his car has got just by replacing the dizzy cap and rotor arm...mabe you should do the same? get some new leads and iridium plugs (grade BKR5EIX for the N/A)
hi
i have replaced the leads & plugs ,perhaps i should consider cap&rotor next
old school you were able to go electronic / pointless distributors&performance coils but there doesn`t seem to be any performance replacements for the starlet apart from coilpacks
lyl e
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hi
i`ve been following the starlet forums for some time & there doesn`t seem to be any good ignition up-grades that stand the test of time
is there any that actually add more than BLING ??
is the multi-coil pack or the coil on plug mod worth it apart from the cost these are the only mods i`ve seen mentioned
is there performance parts to replace in the std distributor i haven`t been able to find any
ideas friends if there is any
thanks lyle
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Has anyone ever wired up some Glanza mirrors to their N/A and got them working? If its possible how hard is it to do??
Thanks guys, Joe
hi
i don`t know if there is any difference in australia but all the wiring is in the loom except if you want folding mirrors .
just get a switch & all the mirrors &door looms it all plugs together
the door looms are the hardest to get & in some cases need to be fabricated . there are wiring diagrams on the au forum to do this
i had to add the fold wires extra to make mine fold then found i got a dodgy mirror 1 side so just using them without until i can service the fold mechanism
lyle
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the bmw disc is 18mm the levin disc is 25mm so thats 7mm all together so 3.5mm plus the standard gap between holder and disc which is about 2 to 3mm aswell so then with the bmw disc you would have a gap of about 6mm which is a lot
hi
sorry to be picky re-read your 1st post
lyle
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3 or 4mm either side is a lot tho and when there is a gap of about 3 or 4mm between the slider and levin disc add on the 3 or 4mm extra that will be there with the thin disc and there will be a fairly big gap
hi the 3mm is the difference between the BMW disc & the 1 you are looking for this amounts to 1 -2mm on each side of the disc if caliper centred
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yea i read it but the levin caliper is made to fit a 25mm disc so pads may fall out when worn would rather the full thickness anyway
hi
i doubt that 3-4mm difference in thickness will cause any grief how many people actually wear their pads down to metal .
so the likelihood of losing a pad is remote it sits in a slide
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just been trying to fit these but dont no what discs to use i seen on the other threads they use 318 bmw discs but there only 22mm thick where as the levin is 25 so dont realy want to use them any other ideas what to use
hi
you`ve read my DIY using a BMW disc it doesn`t get much simpler a do-nut to adapt the 66mm to 55mm on hub & centre caliper on disc bolt it together
disc thickness is more than STD & seems to be good for street use
just like OEM no spacer or longer studs
lyle
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hi
i `ve had aquick search on O2 sensors & find that most ask about type etc i have ascertained that the N/A has a4-wire sensor
has anyone recently replaceed theirs with a universal one ??
did you have any trouble matching the unit to the std wiring ??
what brand did you get ??
are all 4-wire units the same ??
anything i should check when buying a universal 4-wire unit
thanks lyle
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hi
switch arrived to-day
great seller to deal with good quick sale &delivery
thanks lyle
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You need to get some sort of management to get full usage of those IBT's
Looks great bud!
hi
i`m currently using a microtech LT-10 but it is only just managing the fuel
bearing in mind my location i don`t have access to a whole group of tuners & even less for ECU`s that can be tuned
i`m still learning &don`t have all the tools to tune myself &knowledge but as time goes by i hope i will
lyle
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A nice 17bhp gain!
Have you got a de-cat? If not think it would be worth getting one as your on ITB's
hi
de-cat being catalytic converter , already have it fitted when the exhaust was fitted
lyle
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hi
to all the N/A fans
this is the the history of my up-grade in dyno-graphs
std no mods = 35.79kwatw 48kwatw
1st mod is exhaust/ ECU =54.4kwatw 74HP
2nd mod is corolla mani & T/B =59.5kwatw 80.9HP
3rd mod fitted ITB`s with&without cone filters fitted =65.77kwatw 88.2HP
4th mod fitted plenum& BMC filter & re-tuned =68.01kwatw 91.2HP
don`t know what else swap this will probably be it for a while
hope you like the up-date
lyle
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What power you makeing on your set up lyle?
hi
making 89HP atw this was basic tune @ xmas time ( i had a few problems to sort that i didn`t expect )
i`m hoping that now it is running better a check will see some more
lyle
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looking mint dude! glad the bmc filter got there in one piece! looks mint! top work bud
get a vid of the itbs running
hi
i guess i`m not into vid`s the way you guy`s are but there is hardly any induction noise with the filter fitted just free-reving power
the cone filters were noiser
want to see what my adj HP figure is after fitting BMC
lyle
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any videos of the ITB's?
hi
sadly i don`t have any videos but you could only hear the ITB`s with the cone filters.
after fitting the plenum &air filter the induction noise is gone .
it just revs more freely & doesn`t gasp for air. the cone filters seemed to choke the air supply even though it ran ok
photo from previous owner as i bought them
lyle
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hi all
latest photos of last updates
fitted ITB`s &finally got them working
fitted vac manifold & silicone hoses
painted wheels
fitted BMC air filter & plenum ( big improvement from sml cone filters fitted when i bought originally )
fitted head / thin gasket & camshafts
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hi again
my latest up-date
fitted air-box/plenum &filter also sorted vac issues with manifold & new silicone hose
thanks lyle
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HI
which brand is beihg copied ?? ior is this a custom set ??
do the guages sit below centre on pillar or spaced over whole pillar
what colour will they be ??
i would be interested is a triple posted to australia
thanks lyle
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hi
sorry to resurrect this thread again but still undecided been looking on e-bay can`t decide what looks the most discrete ??
ind gauge pods /universal 3 gauge pods / custom pillar mount
what is everyone using ??
what do you like ??
we have all mounted gauges @ different times in different ways
lets see what you have done for some ideas
thanks lyle
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hi
confirm best posted price to NT0822 australia
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Sorry to keep re-asking the same question but really hoping there's a wire in the loom behind the clocks for the tacho sender. If anyone out there has an SR (they have a rev counter right?) that is local to Manchester and will let me have a look at theirs (I've had my clocks in and out so many times now, I'm a pro at it ) I'd be forever in your debt. I could have your clocks out and back in mega quick. I know it's a lot to ask but I'm sick of staring at beautiful white Paseo dials with a motionless rev needle
Once it's all sorted I'm gonna do a really detailed how to for anyone else that fancies a go. I'll even help people do theirs if they want to come round to mine or if they're local.
Cheers
Chris
hi
i don`t know how relevant this is to your situation but when i fitted my white face glanza dash to my N/A i had to stare at my dash for a while also
the wire is brown shielded & the last little bit is black
but by chance i found that there is a + supply that i had to add to the dash to make it work the markings on the printed circuit board aren`t very precise & i wasn`t getting power in the loom somehow so i just added a jumper from the nearest gauge temp i think & presto it worked
this is what i found & might just get you a fix try powering the + terminal on the tacho with a temporary jumper & see if that works i think from memory i just touched the terminal & when it worked i made it permanent
i don`t know how similar our cars are in australia but they can`t be too different
i got folding mirrors also & found the loom a wire short also just another frustration
hope this helps you think through a solution
lyle
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I got the triple a pillar pod from TM-D, the gauges sit nice and flush within it but the pod itself does bend out slightly at the top, could probably sort that easily enough just heating it up but not got around to it.
hi
a bit pricey i thought theres 1 on e-bay
i did like it though maybe i`ll get a 2nd hand 1 @ a bargain
lyle
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hi
i`m in the process of buying some guages to fit to a N/A EP-91
i would like to hear your experiences /failures / preferences how you mounted your gauges
is pillar mount ok??
do they sit compactly on the pillar or are they a dogs breakfast
which pillar mount works the best or are the universal ones ok
don`t like the idea of mounting pods all over the dash like some installs i`ve seen
like the idea of din slot mounting
let me know your thoughts
there seems to be a lot on e-bay to choose from
thanks for all contributions
lyle
4EFE ignition up-grade
in Ignition & Fueling
Posted
hi
so does someone have a set-up sitting on a shelf that i can acquire coil-packs /trigger assy & any wiring that might be useful
pm me
lyle