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Well back in the day when manufacturers did vent to atmosphere they used a tube that went somewhere under the car and was positioned as to create a vacuum via the venturi effect to draw the gases out. But that's no good for emissions and it left a trail of oil down the center of the road. Gavin

Cool. Just wanna say you should never vent to atmosphere because if you run both rocker cover lines to a can that is vented there is nothing pulling the gases out or if you run one line to a vented can and leave the other in place you have basically drilled a hole in your manifold. You should place the can in line with one of the rocker cover lines, which one is under debate. Even when the PCV valve is closed and that's most of the time the other line is still drawing the gases out without fresh air being let in like it would when the PCV valve is open. Gavin

Oh. LOL. I would suggest you read up on how engine breathing systems work! Gavin

Yeah it should be good when I get it done. I'll do some more research but I think the Fire Control 2000 and 3000 is out of my price range. Cheers Chris Gavin

Don't forget lads that the PCV valve is also there to stop manifold backfires igniting oil vapour, so it's not a good idea to gut it! Gavin

I'll try and dig it out for you, I'm sure I still have the paperwork somewhere. They aint cheap! Gavin This is the drivers side (RH) quarter panel part number for a 1997 sportif: 61601-1C370. (I have seen different numbers for different cars!) Price is £201.01 plus V.A.T. That price may very well have 10% off it too, I can't remember! Cheers Ryan. I know what ya mean, it was a nightmare when mine was off the road. I will think about swapping the catch can over! I am probably gonna run an MSD 6A for ignition, it's the only thing I can find that's not too expensive. I too have l

I did think about using the other one because that's the one that gets used when there is no vacuum (most of the time) but I used the other one because the inside of the manifold seemed to have more oil on it than the inside of the throttle body/butterfly. I guess the ideal solution would be to run 2 catch cans but thats not practical. Any thoughts about how to catch the oil/blow by gases from both lines without using 2 cans while still retaining total functionality? Cheers Chris Gavin

Thank you bud and I will do! Thought so, I guessed peak pressure would be at about 3k. That all makes sense now! I'm 28 mate. I'll try and dig it out for you, I'm sure I still have the paperwork somewhere. They aint cheap! Gavin

I thought the oil pressure relief valve only controlled the maximum pressure the system is allowed to reach? Therefore shimming it would only change the maximum pressure. or Does it start to open at a lower pressure and constantly bleed a little pressure/oil off? I guess i'll have to find out, somehow! Gavin

Thank you very much. If you or anyone else wants to know anything about the things in this thread or anything else for that matter, just ask! I will try my very best to help and advise you. I can do wood work and basic electronics as well! People can PM me if they would prefer. Gavin

If that's true I had better think again about running an oil-to-water cooler and an oil-to-air cooler because of the pressure drop(s). What do you think Chris? Yeah mate one line runs from the valve cover to the can and the other runs from the can to the intake manifold. Like this manifold vacuum pulls the oil and water vapour/blow by gases from the valve cover to the manifold but the can catches it before it gets there. Cheers Bud Gavin

I made the catch can, pics are somewhere in here. I'm working on a new lightweight one made from chemical and heat resistant fibreglass, so this one might be for sale in a month or two! Gavin

Thanks mate that's really nice of you! As for the carch can and insulators, every little helps. lol The catch can works but it's never gonna collect the same ammount as one fitted to a turbo because n/a's don't blow as much by the rings. The manifold does stay cooler on short drives but still does become heat soaked on long blasts. Gavin

Thanks Chris! You need to get a build thread up! I would have done a few things different as well but I was running out of funds at the time and wanted to concentrate on making a good solid base engine. From the research I have done I believe they are 200cc. That's not much of a differance to UK ones which I think are 195cc. I did not notice any markings, discolouration, or anything that would indicate oil starvation problems. Cheers Guys! Gavin

What he is telling people is nothing new, Mr Toyota did it years and years ago with the gen1 engines. I see someone copying Toyota not working things out for himself. And that's all you can do! It's what i'm doing but I am NOT claiming I came up with the idea becauise I didn't, Toyota did! I'm not denying he was the first to inform people and spread the word! Gavin

All in good spirits, mate! No offence/harm ment! It's debates that start like this that get results! Gavin

NO, not me. Gavin

Yeah it will! but... I am working on something for the intake also, Check my build thread! Gavin

I've never run a Corolla throttle body! but... True, I was using a smaller throttle body, I had an idea I should be using a bigger one but it's taken me about two years to get around to finding one I liked and I still have not got it fitted yet. Thats's why I said "almost" in my last post. Yes it is very easy to say things after the fact but my "New Members" thread, although only about 2 years old (before you even joined UKSC) kinda shows how long i've been running this manifold for, it also says why I tried the tubular Corolla manifold and why I had to use a smaller throttle body (it's all I

It's not really your mod, your just copying the gen1 engines.(The best thing to do!) I've been running almost like this for 5 years untill I tried the tubular Corolla manifold and then went back to the gen1 manifold! Fuel consumption does suffer! Gavin

Like you say if it's a groove the easy fix is to try and get the seal to sit about 1-1.5mm further out. Other than that I think you can get shaft repair sleeves but I think they change the size of the seal needed. You could get a sleeve that has the same o/d as the crank seal face and machine the crank down so that the sleeve is a tight interference fit onto it. But I would not want to do that to the flywheel end! Gavin

As other people have said somewhere above, it will more than likely be the grooves that have been worn into the crank. Gavin

If it will help below are photos of the 3 plugs from a sportif that I fitted SR clocks into? I can't remember if the photos are before or after the conversion though. The photos might be able to help you but I'm sorry if there no help at all! Gavin

Diy is the way to go. Post #6. You can make it as short as you want! Plus you can shorten the side to side movement aswell! Gavin

I thought most people would be signed up, it's EP91.com. I'll see what I can do. Gavin